Slide Out Motor Bolt Upgrade

[Spk64]

The subject of the slide out motor bolts comes up frequently so we have include a couple links below to help. The slide out motor bolts have been notorious for working loose and causing bigger problems for many owners. A number of solutions have been presented and the SLS method seems to solve most of the issues.

Original thread for SLS implementation of a preventative measure to loosening bolts.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/how...ts-380026.html
An updated SLS version replacing bolts one at a time.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/sli...is-412525.html

The links above include part numbers and sources for the change. Depending on model year you may have 5/16” or 3/8” bolts.

Below is a compilation of part numbers from the SLS threads.

5/16" Slide Motor Bolt Upgrade (per motor)
4 pcs Holo-Krome 1125447 5/16"-18 x 2 SSS CP (Socket Set Screws) (Fastenal #1125447)
8 pcs Nord-Lock #NL8 Washers (Fastenal #11272421)
16 pcs Nord-Lock NLX8sp Washers (Fastenal #0129506)
8 pcs 5/16"-18 Serrated Flange Nut (Fastenal #11127069)

3/8" Slide Motor Bolt Upgrade (per motor) (I did not see a published list so not sure on below. If someone has a list I can update)
4 pcs 3/8"-16 x 2" Socket Set Screw (Fastenal #24980)
8 pcs Nord-Lock 3/8" Washers (Fastenal #0184799)
16 pcs Nord-Lock 3/8" Large Washers (Fastenal #0184801)
8 pcs 3/8"-16 Serrated Flange Nut (Fastenal #11127070)

Loctite is also required and a variety of types have been used.
Blue 242 (Medium Threadlocker)
Green 290 (Medium Threadlocker Wicking)
Red 271 (High Strength Threadlocker)


Installation Instructions Post:

Originally Posted by SLS

UPDATE to My "FIX"
New Easier way to install studs without removing motor/gearbox (MG).

1. Take out one bolt at a time.
2. Install one stud at a time using a stud with a allen slot in one side with
Loctite. (A allen wrench that can be used with a ratchet makes it
easier.) (Very Tight i.e. 120"lbs/10ft lbs.)
3. When all (4) four studs are installed pull MG back out of bracket and install
(4) four 5/16 x 18 serrated nuts with serration facing bracket. (Tighten
anyway that works for you.(Very Firm)
4. Slide MG back into bracket and install four 5/16 x 18 serrated nuts with
serration facing bracket. Tighten VERY FIRM or 24 to 28ft lbs. Run slide
in/out twice min. and recheck torque.

FYI, this works on Square Shaft drives and Torqueflex (Fenner). I did my kitchen slide last February and "FIXED" my kitchen slide (Square Shaft). I just tackled my bedroom slide this this weekend. I Tried many of the suggestions in previous post and none of them would stay tight or hold torque. THEN I watched how to remove the Torqueflex drive and slide the motor back on the shaft to install the serrated nut I needed to remount the MG to the bracket.....

I am "FIXED" Y'ahoo!!!!!
This is MY Fix..........

SLS

An alternative is also the Stage 8 kit.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/i-c...me-539678.html

[Captain Slow]

I performed this modification and it is working great. Also I found the Cog Wheel set screws that hold the key between the shaft and the Cog Wheel loose.

[NCC-1701A]

On my large flat floor side the aluminum threads in the motor bosses were stretching. It was a choice of buying a new motor or using the SLS method with one modification. I JB Welded the "studs" into the motor housing bosses, let it set overnight, then completed the original install version from SLS. After several months this is working great. Saved me from having to get a new motor as the threads were well on their way to stripping out.

The motor is still easily removable if needed. Besides JB Weld in the bosses, I used red loctite on the serrated washer nuts against the motor and blue on the ones on the other side of the bracket.

[Jim 75]

I tried the "Nord Lock " washers with Blue Locktite, the bolts still came loose. So just finished installing the "Stage 8" system. Passenger side was a Bear to install, driver side, one hour. Problem resolved for now, will check and see how this works.


Jim 75 2012 MADP 4336 Towing a 2018 F-150

[SLS]

It is now 6 years since I came up with this FIX and just this week getting ready for another long trip I put a torque wrench on my 8 nuts.
One nut out of the 8 had just a slight movement before the torque wrench clicked off. They were all tight but the one lost a pound or two of torque.
I had not checked these bolts for 2 years and 50K mileage.
SLS

[Piros1]

Curious which models have this issue? I have a 2015 Newmar Essex. I have not researched this just seen the thread tonight and felt it was worth enquiring about. If my coach falls into this category are the motors easily accessible. Like I said I haven’t researched my coach.

[SLS]

It is a Newmar --------- So yes, you have electric sides so you could or will have this problem.
This subject has been beat up and totally discussed on several threads.
My "The FIX" posts are the absolute fix. I bought my DSDP new in 2017 and through trial and error figured out why the motors/gearboxes were coming loose and many had to be replaced at a cost of over $2000.00 each.
Someone posted threads on the "The FITS" above but I also have an alternative that is easier and will work for someone who is not mechanically inclined.
You can PM me and I will give you my phone number. I will answer all your questions on why my fix is the solution.
SLS

[TahoeLarry]

Thanks for the post on the DS motor slide problems. I am picking up my new 2021
4369 next week in Florida. As I am new to all this, are there any videos on the fix
for this problem? THANKS. Tahoe Larry

[NCC-1701A]

Originally Posted by NCC-1701A

On my large flat floor side the aluminum threads in the motor bosses were stretching. It was a choice of buying a new motor or using the SLS method with one modification. I JB Welded the "studs" into the motor housing bosses, let it set overnight, then completed the original install version from SLS. After several months this is working great. Saved me from having to get a new motor as the threads were well on their way to stripping out.

The motor is still easily removable if needed. Besides JB Weld in the bosses, I used red loctite on the serrated washer nuts against the motor and blue on the ones on the other side of the bracket.

Just a followup. Two years and zero loosening. Unfortunately the motor suffered a bearing failure, not related to loose bolts, at least not since I did the SLS fix, so I removed it this last week.

During removal I noted the following:

The serrated washer nuts with blue loctite came loose pretty easily. They had held tight in use, but it made me wonder if the blue loctite had any real impact.

The serrated washer nuts against the motor with red loctite certainly didn't require any heat to remove. On removal they felt like they had cured silicone in the threads.

The JB Weld studs were not removable from the motor. Note that these studs were in bosses with damaged threads! No doubt that if you want unremovable studs, JB Weld will do that! This doesn't impact taking the motor off the shaft. But clearly it positively stops loosening.

My new motor was installed again using the SLS method. On this one, having no damaged threads, I used red loctite on the studs in the motor threaded bosses. I used blue loctite on the serrated washer nuts against the motor, and nothing on the outter serrated washer nuts. We'll see if this holds the same. I fully suspect it will.

[morse]

I've been reading the many comments on the Newmar slide bolt issues. There are quite a few variations in the solutions people have come up with. From my prospective I've found the problem to increase substantially with the extent of use of the slides. We're full timers that travel around 10,000 miles a year and our motorhome is going on 9 years old, so the slides get a lot of cycling. The first several years only required tightening up the motor bolts a couple of times a year and everything was fine. With time the bolts needed tightening more frequently and eventually the aluminum motor threads became compromised and some stripped out. Evaluating the various fixes out there the solution by SLS seemed to be the best. Like some reported I found the particular arrangement on our motorhome didn't allow the motors to be easily moved on the shaft. While maybe not the perfect solution I decided to use the modification to the SLS stud solution and install the Nord lock washers and serrated nuts on only one side of the motor mounts. Being many of the threaded bosses in the aluminum motor housing were compromised I thought it best to two-part epoxy all the studs in permanently rather than trying red or blue Loctite. I removed only one bolt at a time so nothing could move out of place. As others on this forum suggested I used a "bottom tap" to cut threads all the way to the bottom of the holes in the aluminum motor bosses. This created an additional 3 to 4 new threads for the studs to bottom out in. I cleaned out the threads with a gun cleaning type wire brush then an automotive choke cleaner solvent and let everything dry well before carefully epoxying the studs in the motors. After 24 to 48 hours for the epoxy to cure I installed the Nord lock washers and serrated nuts torquing the nuts down in three steps to 25-foot pounds. Lastly, I added a nylon insert lock nut torqued to 20-foot pounds. I'll attach a photo of a motor showing three of the four bolts completed and a photo of some of materials used. This has held up well for me and I thank the many (especially SLS) on this forum for their ideas helping with this project. It's nice not to be concerned and always checking the slide motors as before.

2016 Ventana 3436

2014 Honda CRV

[SLS]

I came up with this "Fix" about 8 years ago.
I just saw a recent Post or email that Newmar recommends to torque the slide bolts twice a year now.
I met Casey at the Hoots rally this year in St George, Utah. Casey took pictures of the studs in a broken gearbox slid motor I had on display.

I bought my 2017 4326 new and have 113k. I'm snowbirding in Arizona until March. I haven't checked my slide studs for 2 years. They have not come loose since I did the the "Fix".......

SLS

[woodosgood]

At least one of the four bolts on each of the 2 full wall slide motors will not tighten down. I read the above post and it seems like a workable solution. I will be staying for several weeks on a friend's courtesy parking site in May and he is a competent auto mechanic and retired mechanic engineer. Do you think we would be able to do the SLS solution to the "stripped" out motor mounts (and the good ones)? Does the work occur when the slides are in or out, or does it matter?

[NCC-1701A]

Originally Posted by woodosgood

...Do you think we would be able to do the SLS solution to the "stripped" out motor mounts (and the good ones)? Does the work occur when the slides are in or out, or does it matter?

In my case, the threads on some of the holes were compromised, but the bolts would still "thread" in, I just couldn't torque them. I put a good portion of JB Weld into the threaded hole (after chasing the threads and cleaning) and screwed in the "studs." The JB squeezed out and I kept wiping it away. I also had put tape tightly around the stud 1" up to keep any JB off the threads that would be outside the hole. I followed the JB recommended cure period before reinstalling the motor. It was a permanent solution. The SLS method is the fix.

I had my slide out about 4" or 5" to have pressure off the motor bolts.

Good luck.

[SLS]

Hi Again Folks,

My only comment on using epoxy or JB Weld is if some of those products pushed down into the aluminum boss and did not allow the stud to bottom out.
When the new stud bottoms out it then becomes an extension of the Gearbox's aluminum Boss. This is a strongest "FIX".

IF YOU USE JB Weld or Epoxy Do Not apply at bottom of the stud. Apply about 1/16th of an inch above the bottom of the stud to allow the stud to bottom out in the aluminum boss.

SLS