Slide Out Motor Bolt Upgrade

[Spk64]

The subject of the slide out motor bolts comes up frequently so we have include a couple links below to help. The slide out motor bolts have been notorious for working loose and causing bigger problems for many owners. A number of solutions have been presented and the SLS method seems to solve most of the issues.

Original thread for SLS implementation of a preventative measure to loosening bolts.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/how...ts-380026.html
An updated SLS version replacing bolts one at a time.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/sli...is-412525.html

The links above include part numbers and sources for the change. Depending on model year you may have 5/16” or 3/8” bolts.

Below is a compilation of part numbers from the SLS threads.

5/16" Slide Motor Bolt Upgrade (per motor)
4 pcs Holo-Krome 1125447 5/16"-18 x 2 SSS CP (Socket Set Screws) (Fastenal #1125447)
8 pcs Nord-Lock #NL8 Washers (Fastenal #11272421)
16 pcs Nord-Lock NLX8sp Washers (Fastenal #0129506)
8 pcs 5/16"-18 Serrated Flange Nut (Fastenal #11127069)

3/8" Slide Motor Bolt Upgrade (per motor) (I did not see a published list so not sure on below. If someone has a list I can update)
4 pcs 3/8"-16 x 2" Socket Set Screw (Fastenal #24980)
8 pcs Nord-Lock 3/8" Washers (Fastenal #0184799)
16 pcs Nord-Lock 3/8" Large Washers (Fastenal #0184801)
8 pcs 3/8"-16 Serrated Flange Nut (Fastenal #11127070)

Loctite is also required and a variety of types have been used.
Blue 242 (Medium Threadlocker)
Green 290 (Medium Threadlocker Wicking)
Red 271 (High Strength Threadlocker)


Installation Instructions Post:

Originally Posted by SLS

UPDATE to My "FIX"
New Easier way to install studs without removing motor/gearbox (MG).

1. Take out one bolt at a time.
2. Install one stud at a time using a stud with a allen slot in one side with
Loctite. (A allen wrench that can be used with a ratchet makes it
easier.) (Very Tight i.e. 120"lbs/10ft lbs.)
3. When all (4) four studs are installed pull MG back out of bracket and install
(4) four 5/16 x 18 serrated nuts with serration facing bracket. (Tighten
anyway that works for you.(Very Firm)
4. Slide MG back into bracket and install four 5/16 x 18 serrated nuts with
serration facing bracket. Tighten VERY FIRM or 24 to 28ft lbs. Run slide
in/out twice min. and recheck torque.

FYI, this works on Square Shaft drives and Torqueflex (Fenner). I did my kitchen slide last February and "FIXED" my kitchen slide (Square Shaft). I just tackled my bedroom slide this this weekend. I Tried many of the suggestions in previous post and none of them would stay tight or hold torque. THEN I watched how to remove the Torqueflex drive and slide the motor back on the shaft to install the serrated nut I needed to remount the MG to the bracket.....

I am "FIXED" Y'ahoo!!!!!
This is MY Fix..........

SLS

An alternative is also the Stage 8 kit.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/i-c...me-539678.html

[Captain Slow]

I performed this modification and it is working great. Also I found the Cog Wheel set screws that hold the key between the shaft and the Cog Wheel loose.

[NCC-1701A]

On my large flat floor side the aluminum threads in the motor bosses were stretching. It was a choice of buying a new motor or using the SLS method with one modification. I JB Welded the "studs" into the motor housing bosses, let it set overnight, then completed the original install version from SLS. After several months this is working great. Saved me from having to get a new motor as the threads were well on their way to stripping out.

The motor is still easily removable if needed. Besides JB Weld in the bosses, I used red loctite on the serrated washer nuts against the motor and blue on the ones on the other side of the bracket.

[Jim 75]

I tried the "Nord Lock " washers with Blue Locktite, the bolts still came loose. So just finished installing the "Stage 8" system. Passenger side was a Bear to install, driver side, one hour. Problem resolved for now, will check and see how this works.


Jim 75 2012 MADP 4336 Towing a 2018 F-150