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Old 08-28-2014, 05:45 PM   #1
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Slideout motor removal

I have a busted slideout motor gearbox on my 2006 DSDP model 3817. It is a KMG center mount model # K01176C900, for my large front slide. Since the gearbox has some busted metal pieces from the gear bearings, I will have to buy another one from Newmar ($800) no other options, I have already called KMG and COLAW.

I have the instructions from prior posts on how to remove but I don't quite understand it. Has anyone else removed their center mount motor off of the gear shaft? I know how to loosen the transtorque bushing, but when I try to loosen it a second time, it just turns the shaft and does not break loose? I can send pictures of it if needed!
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:14 PM   #2
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Page # 3 of the second section tells how to remove the center motor from shaft and when putting back together remember there are two torque ,125 & 145, values for the torque nuts.
Try using a vise grip pliers around the shaft with a board of some kind to stop vice grip pliers from tearing the compartment ceiling roof and stop shaft from turning.
Maybe get help also to keep shaft from turning, sometimes DIY needs help.
Link comes from QT's 1 & 2 below.
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:27 PM   #3
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I got a brand new motor through Amazon, came in a Newmar box, direct from Newmar. Cost was about $450 incl shipping. But it's a different motor than you need
My problem is: it didn't cure my problem!! Still have to push from the outside or pull from the inside to get it up the ramp (it's a flat floor main slide). Once up that ramp it works fine.
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:25 PM   #4
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Mr_D you need to increase the pot on slide control very little to give the motor more current to get your slide up the ramp. Only do in small increments until slide moves easily up ramp. The control unit and stop rods will sense when its time to shut off current to motor.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:57 AM   #5
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Welcome back Mr_D! I have a similar problem as yours with my kitchen slide. I stopped at Newmar this spring to have them check all 4 slides.

They said my kitchen slide is pulling more current than it should but could not tell why... They also said my rear lock arm on that slide needed to be replaced so I picked one up and replaced it myself after I got home.

The way the lock arm sensors were set up, the screws were hitting the sensors on their side and one was cracked and the other one shorted so I replaced them both and realigned.

Now my controller is also set up to max current and sometimes the slide works, sometimes doesn't. When it does not I disconnect the controller and apply the 12 volts directly to the motor and that always works well but it's a PIA. I suspect I need to change the motor as I do not think there is anything wrong with the slide itself??
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Old 08-29-2014, 12:08 PM   #6
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007, I will check out those instructions you mentioned. I also checked out Amazon and Ebay for my exact model number replacement, but to no avail.

I don't want to try another model in the event that the Amps, HP, and Torque is not correct when I re-install it. Do I have to close the slide when I take the motor off, or can I just leave it open until the new motor is in place?

The Tech sheet also recommends putting two Bottlejacks under the slide to take pressure off of the gearbox and gears, when removing the motor. Since I am in Yosemite National Park, about 1 1/2 hours from the nearest Auto parts store, do you know who sells bottlejacks long enough to cover a distance of about 35 inches?
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Old 08-29-2014, 01:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efstewart View Post
007, I will check out those instructions you mentioned. I also checked out Amazon and Ebay for my exact model number replacement, but to no avail.

I don't want to try another model in the event that the Amps, HP, and Torque is not correct when I re-install it. Do I have to close the slide when I take the motor off, or can I just leave it open until the new motor is in place?

The Tech sheet also recommends putting two Bottlejacks under the slide to take pressure off of the gearbox and gears, when removing the motor. Since I am in Yosemite National Park, about 1 1/2 hours from the nearest Auto parts store, do you know who sells bottlejacks long enough to cover a distance of about 35 inches?
I have been working on my slide. To jack it I used bottle jacks with 4x4 wood cut to the right length. Bottle jacks can be had cheap, don't need much lifting capacity.
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Old 08-29-2014, 01:18 PM   #8
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Before you lift (or hold) the slide with any type of jacks make sure you drop the air in the coach (if so equipped) and maybe put jacks down just enough to hold the coach (do not raise). You do not want the coach going down even an inch putting a few tons of weight on the slide...
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Old 08-29-2014, 01:49 PM   #9
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I don't remember that particular slide having any pressure on the motor so don't know why you would need to hold the slide up. When I changed mine out, I merely loosened the bearings to allow some flex in the shaft and unbolted then removed the motor. There was no pressure on the motor and I didn't take the shafts out. Also, I would consider a large plumbing monkey wrench on the motor side of the shaft to allow removal of the torque bushing if needed. Not going to use the old motor anyway so no worries if it is scored. Just an opinion from my experience.
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Old 08-29-2014, 03:01 PM   #10
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If your slide is out leave it out and also your jacks down your not doing anything with the slide You need the room in compartment to work.
Jim L had good suggestions.
Looking in files for motor be back. Here is what I was looking for.
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Old 09-02-2014, 02:31 PM   #11
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I believe that the motor (Motor number is K01176C900, serial number is 5H0342.10 amps, 1/8 hp) needs to be replaced. The motor works but the one of the gears is loose where it goes into a sleeve that is broken. I have been told that this center mount motor has no replacement parts, just a completely new motor is allowed.

With that in mind, I read a technical service manual from Newmar dated Dec. 2003 about how to remove the center mount motor. On page 3 it says to jack up the slide to take pressure off of the weight off of the drive wheels. So I did that on both sides for both drive wheels that are at the end of each shaft.

Then, remove all shafts and the drive wheel between the motor and the actuating arm. I don't know what an actuating arm is.

Them it says to loosen the transtorque bushing ( which one is it talking about? The one immediately next to the motor facing the front of the coach, or the one farther down towards the rear of the coach?)

I have already loosened the one next to the motor, and when I try to loosen it a second time (with a breaker bar and lots of torque, it just moves the entire shaft and slide. Do I need to take the shaft off of the bracket next to the rear gear and then loosen the bushing towards the rear? I am already quite a bit into this project, and would like to finish it and order a motor. Thanks in advance for your help. The picture below show the motor partially disassembled and still on the shaft.

The first picture is the rear of the coach gear, the second third and fourth pictures show the partially disassembled motor next to the front transtorque bushing that I loosened once but not twice.The last two pictures just show the length of the shaft going to the rear gear.

I think I attached some photos but I don't know if it made it on here or not!
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Old 09-03-2014, 08:27 AM   #12
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I do not see the pics.
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:23 PM   #13
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Slideout motor ready to slide off

Ok, I read the instructions, I got the motor ready to slide off. I managed to loosen the trans torques bushings and the motor is now free and just hanging on the shaft. Now I have to figure out how to get to the end of the split shaft which protrudes about one inch into the bushing housing.

I called newmar and they said pound back the bushing housing to reveal the end of the shaft, however, much pounding yielded no results as the housing is very tight on the shaft, and additional pounding will brreak something. I see where the rear gear(or cogwheel) is attached to a double sided brace with bearings, which in turn is connected to the bushing housing and it's a short shaft

Is it possible to remove the cogwheel from the braces(attached with standard bolts and nuts) and then slide back the short shaft attached to the bushing?

I thought I uploaded some pics but I cannot see them.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:12 PM   #14
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With both nuts loose on either side of motor and gear housing doesn't the shaft slip back and forth.
I would not state taking other parts apart you may get yourself in a mess.
Here is the new slide spec lets see what it has to say about removing the motor.
Page 7 and pages before it talking about the bushings releasing of them should give you some help.
Hitting the shaft use the crow foot to separate the bushings, if one brakes you can get new ones information is in QT's 1 & 2 the slide spec section.
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