Special Tools

[dhutcheson]

I have searched forum, however I am not sure I did it correctly. I am new to a 2006 Newmar Ventana. Are there any specialty size wrenches. Sockets or other tools that I should make certain I have on board? Thanks for the advice and help.
Dennis

[R.Wold]

The only unusual thing I can think of is a rather large (1 1/2” IIRC) end wrench to loosen the trans-torque bushings should you need to adjust a slide, and that would depend on both the design and size of the hardware on an ‘06. And hopefully you’ll never need one anyway. Other than that everything is pretty standard.

[Solo_RV_Guy]

A full purse, a big cheque book, a virgin credit card, and a great attitude.

Have lots of safe travel and wonderful adventures in 2021 :-)

[akeagle]

Originally Posted by dhutcheson

I have searched forum, however I am not sure I did it correctly. I am new to a 2006 Newmar Ventana. Are there any specialty size wrenches. Sockets or other tools that I should make certain I have on board? Thanks for the advice and help.
Dennis

I know this might not apply to a DP, but I bought a specialty wrench for mounting/dismounting the serpentine belt on my Triton V10. That and a spare belt seemed wise to carry on board.

[R.Wold]

Originally Posted by akeagle

I know this might not apply to a DP, but I bought a specialty wrench for mounting/dismounting the serpentine belt on my Triton V10. That and a spare belt seemed wise to carry on board.

Good point but even better, for a rear radiator coach of that age, unless you know when the last time the belt was changed (if ever), is to tackle that one at home as prev. maint., and then travel with a spare and the tools hoping you never need them.

I haven’t even really looked at mine yet, but I did one on a Dodge truck at a CG in Wyoming (replaced his water pump too) and it was a monumental hassle the way it threaded circuitously around all that stuff. I think the ISB in a coach isn’t quite that complicated, but then access is worse.

The big thing is to stay up on your maintenance, like fuel filters for instance, so you don’t have problems on the road. What model is it?

[Beyond]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

The only unusual thing I can think of is a rather large (1 1/2” IIRC) end wrench to loosen the trans-torque bushings should you need to adjust a slide, and that would depend on both the design and size of the hardware on an ‘06. And hopefully you’ll never need one anyway. Other than that everything is pretty standard.

Dennis, I don't know the exact size but the large wrench as R. Wold says for the slide is important. We have a 2007 Ventana and I'd suggest using tire pressure/temp monitors too. Much easier to stay on top of the air pressures. And a battery watering system so just one fill spot fills all 4 house batteries. We do carry a set of fuel filters and a serpentine belt.

happy traveling!

[C.Martin]

I carry the long bar to hold the tensioner when replacing a serpentine belt...

Multi-driver with S2 bit. Everything is either hex, toro, or square drive...

Filter wrenches for everything..

Metric socket for wheel lugs, and Fuel Filter cartridge that has a hex protrusion...

Air Pressure gauges, and chucks...

3D printed wrench to tighten the nuts holding the sconce globes...they loosen and start rattling from time to time.

Male to male gender fitting for Air Quick Connect in Bonnet. Newmar installed a female quick connect...and most tow trucks have a female quick connect. So, you may need something to join the two females, should you need to be towed. The tow trucks air keeps your air bags pressurized....and allows the Park Brake (Spring Brake) to be released for towing.

Misc. hose pinchers...for swapping Oasis Pumps...

AC/DC Clampmeter

I don’t usually carry them...but I have a four foot long torque wrench that goes up to 700 ft-lbs, and a 1” pneumatic impact wrench. If O have a problem away from home...I’ll be waiting for Coachnet.

[R.Wold]

I also bought this oil filter wrench because on the ISB the oil filter is only easily accessed from directly below. Also checked mine last night and the transtorque bushing wrench size is 1 1/2” and it was for my 2010 Bay Star (08 chassis) so yours probably is too, but of course check first. I bought a cheap Husky wrench from HD which is fine for this job. Also a good bright LED work light with a stand of some kind can be very helpful.

[Capt. Bill]

The posts above pretty well cover it- if I remember correctly, you use a 1/2" drive breaker bar that snaps into the square recess in the serpentine belt tensioner. I also carry a 24" pipe wrench to be able to manually crank back in my slides should a motor or gear box fail. You would put it on the drive shaft after disconnecting the drive coupling & turn the shaft by hand.

Happy trails

[R.Wold]

Originally Posted by Capt. Bill

The posts above pretty well cover it- if I remember correctly, you use a 1/2" drive breaker bar that snaps into the square recess in the serpentine belt tensioner. I also carry a 24" pipe wrench to be able to manually crank back in my slides should a motor or gear box fail. You would put it on the drive shaft after disconnecting the drive coupling & turn the shaft by hand.

Happy trails

I have a failing slide that needs a push to get it over the hump. My plan is to take the drive mechanism apart and take the elec motor to a local guy that’s been rebuilding automotive elec motors for decades. But in the mean time, I’m packing the pipe wrench. Good idea, because eventually even the extra push won’t get it. And I have a few other projects ahead of that one.

[jacwjames]

Trying to guess what you may need is difficult. When I'm doing maintenance and don't have a tool I'll just buy it and keep in the DP. One thing that I found I needed was a good strap wrench, although I had 3-4 different wrenches none of them worked, either too small or not stout enough. I needed the better strap wrench for oil/fuel/dryer filters.

[AnotherMike]

As to tools...

It all depends on your skills. My dad gave me a soldering iron and a crystal set kit at age 8. He and I did all the home maintenance... I was doing drywall at age 10. At age 18 I towed my first car home... paid $75 for it... rebuilt the carb, swapped the rear transmission seal and front engine seal just to get it running.

My RV (my 1st) is over 30 years old, and is simple. No slides. The most complex items in it are the generator and the dual air conditioners. The power train (454 Chev / TH400) is the same as a Chevy Suburban that a friend had, and he and I worked on... he put over a million miles on that Suburban... I'm not scared of the power train. I can work on it.

So... I have a large toolbox in the RV and a CoachNet membership.

Others have a small toolbox, a high limit credit card and a CoachNet membership.

Another thought... It's not tools but something I tell anyone with a new-to-them RV...

Contact the RV manufacturer and get them to email you a set of electrical diagrams (both 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC), plumbing diagrams and construction diagrams (especially for the roof). And entertainment system if it has one.

Do the same thing with the chassis diagrams... my old RV is built on a basic Chevy P30 chassis, and Chev produced a P30 chassis book... I found a PDF of that book. The electrical diagrams were INVALUABLE.

Get a PDF of every appliance manual. If you buy a new appliance (like a refrigerator) that comes with a paper manual then get a PDF of the manual - you can usually download it from the manufacturers web site. And keep the PDFs on a laptop - you might not have internet where you get stranded. Keep a copy of every relevant iRV2 posting. My "RV" directory on my laptop has over 2000 files in it.

If you have a problems that information resource will be very useful - if not to you then to the mobile RV tech.
= = = =

As to unusual tools... Just went through this exercise...

Add a 1 and 1/2 inch SIX point socket and the appropriate ratchet handle to your kit.

Just about ALL RV water heater electric elements use the same size hex head. Some residential heaters also use that size.

Usually the electric heater element is mounted in the end of the tank. It requires a 1 and 1/2" SIX point socket, not the typical 12 point socket.

Check the clearance around your element BEFORE it fails... if you have the clearance around the element you may be able to use a thickwall socket (they are stronger) rather than the common thinwall. Then buy the appropriate 6-point socket and toss it in your tool kit. You may find that size difficult to locate in six points.

IMPORTANT - when it fails you will need to drain the tank to swap the element. Don't forget to refill the tank BEFORE connecting the wires to the element.
DO NOT APPLY POWER TO HEATER ELEMENT WITHOUT WATER COVERING IT!!!
IT WILL BURN OUT WITHIN SECONDS !!

And a RV water heater side note:
If you find a brass drain plug in your water heater you should replace it with a nylon plug as the drain hole threads are part of the aluminum tank and the brass can damage the aluminum threads - it's MUCH easier to replace a nylon plug than have to replace the entire water heater tank due to stripped threads in the drain hole.

Plus, the nylon is specifically hollow in the backside and DESIGNED to blow out should overheating conditions occur when / if the thermostat is faulty... the nylon plug is a backup safety component! The nylon will blow out so WH doesn't explode.

Mike

[stang37]

Originally Posted by R.Wold

I have a failing slide that needs a push to get it over the hump. My plan is to take the drive mechanism apart and take the elec motor to a local guy that’s been rebuilding automotive elec motors for decades. But in the mean time, I’m packing the pipe wrench. Good idea, because eventually even the extra push won’t get it. And I have a few other projects ahead of that one.

I had the same issue with the front passenger slide. Called Newmar. It turned out the controller was too low amperage to get the slide up the ramp but with a slight push it would go. Newmar got me in contact with the controller manufacture and they sent out a new controller. No more problems.

[txcpl]

AS far as tools to carry in your RV, take the tools you are familiar with, and use at home. Unless you are a mechanic or a weekend mechanic, you won't use the special tools for specific jobs. Those jobs will be performed by a mechanic.