Starlink flat high performance on newmar

[RVStitchy]

Originally Posted by MarylandRich

It looks cool, but not being able to move dishy seems like a bad idea. I have 150’ cable and have run it through the woods to a clearing. At one campground we had no phone or cell data, and heavy tree canopy overhead. Being able to move it gave me date and phone over Wi-Fi. That would not have happened with a permanently mounted unit. What am I missing here?

What if your number 1 requirement was internet while driving - "in-motion"? I do all the driving. DW does her consulting work at the dinette while I drive. Lots of video downloading and almost a terabyte per month. Works very well for us.

We only do two week trips right now and never more than 4 days at one site. She can get all her work done before we arrive so she can enjoy that arrival cocktail and not need to start working at the camp site. In the future, if we spend more time on the road and more time at one (potentially tree covered) location I would probably go red barons route and have a second account with a standard dishy.

[MarylandRich]

Originally Posted by RVStitchy

What if your number 1 requirement was internet while driving - "in-motion"? I do all the driving. DW does her consulting work at the dinette while I drive. Lots of video downloading and almost a terabyte per month. Works very well for us.

We have a T mobile 5G 100 gig bucket per month for travel, more concerned with when I get there, keeping in mind we are East coast, not the big wide open sky like in Much of the West.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

Glued makes sense...and may be another option.

I am liking your idea if aluminum or all strut usage.

Something like this may work, the flat antenna could be dripped down to be flush with highest point, when I say glued I’m referring to 3m tape and then sealed with self leveling n

[Stuart W]

Something like this may work, you could drop the starlink flush with the highest point . The flange could be 3m taped down and seal with self leveling

[Stuart W]

3m vhb with adhesion primer is what I used on my solar.

[Stuart W]

Here is a picture from my solar install, note the blocks of aluminum I used. You could get the right size blocks and tape them to the roof then mount SL bracket to them

[Stuart W]

Two pieces 4 or 6 inch diameter slightly wider the SL Mount

[redbaron73]

Thanks, I have used the vhb for my cellular antenna. If it worked for your solar, then it would certainly work with starlink.

[Stuart W]

Originally Posted by redbaron73

Thanks, I have used the vhb for my cellular antenna. If it worked for your solar, then it would certainly work with starlink.

I believe Neal also glued his down, he would be a great person to check with to see how it has held up

[FlaRider]

I installed my SL mount with 3M 4100. As you can see it is mounted towards the front of the coach I have only used it on one 400 mile trip so far. It has worked great, beside being at Hilton Head Motorcoach Resort which has a lot of trees. When I used the standard StarLink I would mount it on a flagpole off the rear hitch when possible or put it on the ground in front of the coach if there where to many trees in the rear, so putting it towards the front of the coach seemed to make sense for me, but time will tell.

[Generator]

I posted this reply to someone with a similar question on the Newmar New Aire Face Book page. My install utilized the aluminum structure that I installed for solar panels. Perhaps you could bridge between the parapet supports with a few chunks of aluminum angle so that the Starlink HP dish can be mounted at least as high as the top of the parapets. To mount it lower could impede the 140 degree satellite access angle. Pay attention to the other suggestions. My install is working great, even with partially obscured campsites. Here goes-
I just finished the flat high performance Starlink dish install today. Not rocket science, but here are a few tips if you are installing it yourself. First, the power supply generates a lot of heat, up to 150 watts (200 watts if snow melt is enabled), so put it in a place that has a lot of ventilation. If you do put it in one of the small cabinets above drivers seat, keep the cabinet door open a bit to allow some cool air. Second, the connector that goes into the dish is big, but the other end only requires a 3/4 inch hole. So make sure to pull the cable in the direction of the power supply. Third, get a remote on-off switch from Home Depot so that you can turn off the Starlink without having to unplug it. There may be times (boondocking or Harvest Hosting) that you don't want to have Starlink on to keep from running down your batteries. Fourth, get a point of use surge protector dedicated for the Starlink. It will protect your $2,500 investment. I mounted my dish on the framework for my solar panels and ran the cable down through living room cabinets through the Oasis bay to the storage tray area. I mounted the power supply near the ceiling in the storage tray area where there is pretty good ventilation. I rewired the vacuum cleaner receptacle to be a double outlet (that was the hardest part of the project). I used the Newmar provided "solar prep" ethernet cable to get the output from the power supply to my Pep Wave router which is mounted above the driver's seat. I am not using the Starlink router as the Pep Wave allows switching between my cellular sources and the Starlink. Oh darn, Starlink just raised the monthly subscription rate from $135 to $150. But still a good backup for my cellular plans. I'm including a photo of the dish mounted on the roof. I have a photo of the power supply in the storage tray area if anyone is interested. --- By the way, there is metal support in the raised area above the bedroom. I know because I just added a DC powered air conditioner on it. My DC air conditioner can be seen in the attached photo.

[redbaron73]

The use of aluminum channel does address all the concerns I had.

Thank you for the pictures, that makes the install crystal clear.

[RoaminFree]

We have 2017 Entegra Anthem. We thought about a permanent installation also. We changed our minds. Sometimes our sites have trees and being mobile allows me to put the dish where it can see the sky. Otherwise, I get no TV (DISH satellite does not like trees either) and no internet.

[DrPhil]

Originally Posted by Generator

I posted this reply to someone with a similar question on the Newmar New Aire Face Book page. My install utilized the aluminum structure that I installed for solar panels. Perhaps you could bridge between the parapet supports with a few chunks of aluminum angle so that the Starlink HP dish can be mounted at least as high as the top of the parapets. To mount it lower could impede the 140 degree satellite access angle. Pay attention to the other suggestions. My install is working great, even with partially obscured campsites. Here goes-
--- By the way, there is metal support in the raised area above the bedroom. I know because I just added a DC powered air conditioner on it. My DC air conditioner can be seen in the attached photo.

I am interested in what your measured clearance before and after install is for this set up (ie. how much taller is your rig after the fact). We have a DSDP and I think it is a bit taller than a newair coming from the factory.