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Old 11-29-2020, 07:40 PM   #1
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Storage without power supply

We recently moved and our new storage site for the coach is covered storage, but does not have power. Last month I noticed a significant drop in chassis battery voltage (house batteries were fine). I was able to start the coach, but have determined that there are draws on the chassis battery even when the circuit breakers in the rear, inverter, and inside power switch are off.

The owners manual says:

ďWhen the battery disconnect is 'off', meaning you have disconnected components from the batteries, there are still some loads on the batteries connected to the hot side of the Battery Disconnect Relay. Some of these loads may be Radio Memory, Entry Steps, and LP Detector. These will draw from the batteries, even when the disconnect is 'off'. Pull the fuse for each of the 'HOT' circuits to stop the batteries from being drained.Ē

So, any help on where the Xite radio and entry step fuses are? Iím also concerned our chassis batteries are depleted and need prolonged charging for a few hours. Any other advice?

I so miss our indoor storage with power.....
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Old 11-29-2020, 08:16 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeslieGary View Post
I so miss our indoor storage with power.....
I feel your angst. I'd be looking for a storage location with power - even if it is outside. Is that an option? There are just too many high tech features that work best when power is uninterrupted.

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Old 11-29-2020, 09:38 PM   #3
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Buy a Commercial Vehicle Jump Kit

We have had to park the RV at a non-power storage facility for the past two years. Even though Iím pretty strict on shutting everything off, Iíve had two instances where the Chassis batteries were dead when I went back after 3-4 weeks. I never did find a cause, but I suspect that the radio draws power even if the disconnect is off. Probably channel memory and/or GPS.

The first time we were able to jump start it from the tow vehicle. The second time we had to call a mobile service to come in and jump us.

For my birthday DW bought me a Commercial Vehicle Jump Starter on Amazon that was what the mobile service used...

(Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC770B 1700 Peak Amp Premium 12 Volt Jump Starter - Blue w/Cover)

Otherwise, my advice is go over every couple weeks and run the engine for 15-20 minutes to keep everything charged.
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Old 11-29-2020, 09:49 PM   #4
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I store my MH in a yard that has no power available. After finding the batteries low or dead a few times, I had a 130 watt solar panel installed. The solar controller sends 90% to the house and 10% to the chassis. I haven't had a battery problem for the last 10 years. Best money I have spent on the MH.
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Old 11-30-2020, 07:10 AM   #5
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I store my MH in a yard that has no power available. After finding the batteries low or dead a few times, I had a 130 watt solar panel installed. The solar controller sends 90% to the house and 10% to the chassis. I haven't had a battery problem for the last 10 years. Best money I have spent on the MH.

I've considered solar, but here in Illinois we can get weather that will block the sun for weeks. That and temps dropping far below what you get in your storage yard in Sunny California, if I read your location correctly-if not I apologize, make solar and expensive incomplete solution. Power is the only solution and reliable power isn't always there. Having said that, I have no solution other than running my generator a couple of times a week.
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Old 11-30-2020, 07:58 AM   #6
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Thanks for the replies. We're in the Savannah, GA area and there don't appear to be any indoor storage options nearby. Our motor home is in covered storage (ie, a big carport) and power is not available--but perhaps I need to ask them again. I'm not sure solar will work, but perhaps I can figure something out.

Fortunately it is only about 10 minutes from our house, so not difficult to stop by and start it, but I still don't like the power drain. I'll get out there this week and see if I can find the correct fuses to remove. I'm also considering taking it to a local RV park for a day to leave it on shore power to recharge the chassis batteries.
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Old 11-30-2020, 12:21 PM   #7
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All you really need is a 15a 110v power source for storage. I would ask them if they can provide that. They may have thought you needed 30a or more.
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Old 11-30-2020, 02:27 PM   #8
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All you really need is a 15a 110v power source for storage. I would ask them if they can provide that. They may have thought you needed 30a or more.
Thanks--I agree, that would work. Looking around, we found another place that has covered parking with 30 and 15 amp service. I'm thinking we would need 30 amp/220v to keep the refrigerator running, but perhaps can make it work with 15 amp/110v. Costs about $20 more per month to run 30 amp.
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Old 11-30-2020, 07:37 PM   #9
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I have a new DS and experienced the same issue. I found that back by the chassis batteries is a fuse block, its under the batteries, its round. I found that when both chassis battery disconnects are disconnected the battery had several things still going on. One the 10W solar charger was connected and charging the batteries when the sun was shinning. Two a bunch of the fuses in the fuse panel I mentioned had power on them. Fuse F11 Ė CAB CLEAN BATT (15A) was the culprit and was drawing about .5 amps of power from the batteries. I now pull this fuse when storing the rig. So far (only 1 week) the batteries are now actually holding there charge when in storage (out doors).

Before I pulled the F11 fuse the fully charged batteries would drop to 12.0 volts in 1 to 2 weeks depending on how much the 10 watt solar charge could supplement. So I would have to run the generator for 4 hours to recharge them.

I will be checking them regularly for a while to see how long I can go before firing up the generator to recharge the house and chassis batteries again.
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Old 11-30-2020, 08:15 PM   #10
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Thanks--I agree, that would work. Looking around, we found another place that has covered parking with 30 and 15 amp service. I'm thinking we would need 30 amp/220v to keep the refrigerator running, but perhaps can make it work with 15 amp/110v. Costs about $20 more per month to run 30 amp.
I think 15 amp would work just fine. If it's not enough just turn off the fridge when it's in storage. We, in fact, switch ours down to 15 amp routinely when in storage - and turn off the fridge. When a trip is planned, I run over to pack and turn on the fridge.

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Old 11-30-2020, 08:39 PM   #11
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I've kept my Canyon Star in a no power storage are for ten years and have never had a problem. I put knife switches on the negative terminals of the chassis battery and the two coach batteries and disconnect whenever the coach is in storage. I've left it for as much as 3-4 months and it never fails to start.
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Old 11-30-2020, 08:44 PM   #12
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I store my MH in a yard that has no power available. After finding the batteries low or dead a few times, I had a 130 watt solar panel installed. The solar controller sends 90% to the house and 10% to the chassis. I haven't had a battery problem for the last 10 years. Best money I have spent on the MH.
How did you divide the output like that, to two separate battery banks?
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Old 11-30-2020, 08:46 PM   #13
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I'm thinking we would need 30 amp/220v to keep the refrigerator running, but perhaps can make it work with 15 amp/110v. Costs about $20 more per month to run 30 amp.

Correction (major correction): 30 amp RV outlet is 120 VAC, NOT 240 VAC.


Said another way it has ONE hot, one neutral and one ground.


And, yes a refrigerator and converter or inverter/charger if properly set can both be run on 15 amp service (one hot, one neutral and one ground-- same as a house-type 15/20. By properly set up, I mean that most powerful inverter/chargers allow you to "dial back" how many amps of 120 VAC are used for battery charging. Sometimes called power share, sometimes power share, and a few others. Basically tells the unit that it can't use more than XX amps for charging.
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Old 11-30-2020, 09:44 PM   #14
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Correction (major correction): 30 amp RV outlet is 120 VAC, NOT 240 VAC.


Said another way it has ONE hot, one neutral and one ground.


And, yes a refrigerator and converter or inverter/charger if properly set can both be run on 15 amp service (one hot, one neutral and one ground-- same as a house-type 15/20. By properly set up, I mean that most powerful inverter/chargers allow you to "dial back" how many amps of 120 VAC are used for battery charging. Sometimes called power share, sometimes power share, and a few others. Basically tells the unit that it can't use more than XX amps for charging.
Thanks for the correction. We have had our coach on 120v for a few days while at a relativeís house. It held up,fine, but obviously nor the same as storing it. I may call Newmar to see what they say.
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