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Originally Posted by jepoland5
We drove about 4 hours this afternoon back to our "regular" CG in the Texas heat. We ran the generator the whole time in order to run the ACs and not pass out. That was the first time I have done that (run the generator while driving), or at least the first time I've done it for that length of time. We pulled into the CG and I went through my normal set-up routine. I made sure the pedestal breaker was off, I plugged my Surge Guard 34950 into the pedestal, adjusted the cord length, then I turned on the pedestal breaker. The SG did its thing and indicated normal power at the pedestal. I went back inside the coach, where the generator was still running along with all three AC units, and I turned off the generator. As I was doing so, a voice in my head asked, "should you have turned off the AC units before transferring to shore power?" Unfortunately, I didn't react to that voice until after the generator was off for a few moments, but I did turn them all off. However, the Power Control System panel said "no service." I turned the generator and the AC back on so that we could get some air in the coach (it was 104*) and ran it for 10-15 minutes while I double checked the pedestal, the surge guard, and every circuit breaker I could find. Then I shut off the AC units, shut off the generator, waited a few minutes, and turned the pedestal back on. Viola, shore power!.....until I turned on the AC units (yes, all 3) and we lost power again. Haven't been able to get it back. Any suggestions? Have I fried something? Have had zero issues with power and the transfer switch up until now. The ONLY thing different between this set-up and every other one over the last six months is that I had both the generator and the ACs running when I plugged into shore. One last observation: there is a red led light on the transfer switch case. It was solid red when the generator was running, but it is flashing with the generator off and plugged into shore. Thanks for any help.
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Hi. I have a 2022 Baystar so maybe some difference but if this helps, a review of things on the shore power side. If you know all this apologies.
I installed the fixed Surge guard in my rear shore power bay and it has had issues, not thought the surge guards fault (see later).
Post power on a 50A supply is split L1 and L2. Both separately are suppose to deliver just over 120V each line. L1 30A limit, L2, 20A limit. Across L1 and L2 you get 240v.
So with the Generator on, the SG will ignore any incoming shore power but should detect it and have L1 and L2 red lights on and power good, green light on. As you know after first plugging in the SG takes 120 seconds to engage its contactors and let power though. This is a Period of shore power assessment for over, under and surge and when happy it let's power through.
If you have a multimeter and are electrically confident. Open your main breaker panel inside the RV and with shore power on and all lights in the SG good, check both legs of your supply, L1 and L2 against Neutral. Do you get 120V approxiatmety on L1 and then L2. If you are not confident, please don't attempt this. L1 will likely split off via a breaker and feed your charge/inverter but also feed one of your ACs. L2 in my case feeds AC2. so may be useful to know what your ACs are powered from in this arrangement. L1, L2, which AC's?
This L1 goes as a rule to your charger inverter, then the inverters output goes to a second panel in your RV which feeds non AC loads, for example your domestic fridge, TV sockets, wall sockets).
If your L1 and L2 at the initial panel is good and your inverter is working fine and its outputting either 12V or 24 V on the low voltage side and charging batter y bank (depending on your DS low voltage set up), test if your ACs on the roof have 120V. Caution when opening up the AC covers on the roof.
If all other 120V sockets, GFCI sockets etc have good power and not just supported by the inverter, then so far all seems good.
Your AC wall control (well in my case its Dometic and Penguin II ACs) this also needs a low voltage supply, in my case 12V. Does the AC control panel light up and turn on and show any error codes? If not the issue could be the low voltage side that runs the wall control. If you are touch panel, is there a resettable low voltage breaker or fuse or has a fuse blown on the low voltage side?
If shore power is OK and Generator is working fine and all other low voltage systems seem ok, it could be an issue with your AC low voltage control, but for all 3 to go seems unlikely.
Camp power posts are not what they seem.Each post generally is in a line with the feed to a row of RVs. If your down that row and other RVs are pulling power, its often the case that those further down when on load, have a lower voltage. I think surge guard relays cut off at an under voltage of 108V on any line.
In this recent summer heat, power posts are often providing below volts and this can trip your SG off. It will reset, wait 120 seconds and try again. If not happy it will cut out again. Parks just test volts at the post and don't run tests on load. There are also cases recently of power gen companies struggling in the heat and distribution volts, even on HV lines are reduced to reduce losses.
If you hear regular clicking from your surge guard, its not happy with power and is cycling. Mine being RV mounted makes it easy to hear it clunk off and then later back on and off again.
Something else to have checked. ACs when the motor kicks in demand a large, short term current called Locked Rotor Amps (LRA), If 2 ACs demand at the same time you could be demanding well above what the camp post can provide. it last a second or less but can be an issue.
If all seems good power wise apart from the ACs, and low voltage DC side is good, have the AC power supply capacitors checked. If these are gone you will not have 120V supplied inside the AC.
Hope thats gives some considerations. I run softart on my ACs to reduce the initial LRA demand and replaced my factory charger inverter for Victron. Its saved me a few times but you may have a much larger inverter.
One caution to all. Just after your battery house bank output will be a fuse, its usually a Class T fuse, at least 250A. These fuses protect the battery connection to the inverter and any low voltage busbar. They are absolute gold dust and at present, every supplier I have tried is out of stock until September. If it goes you may have an issue with no low voltage DC.
For obvious reasons I must say this is my personal view and opinion and nothing in the above should be taken as advice. Please consult a professional.
Hope there is something in the above that may help.
Linear Mode
