Thinking about lithium batteries-need advice

[RMD3819]

I am considering pulling the trigger and replacing my 8 OEM batteries with 4 lithiums because of the corrosion. I'll also have to clean the tray. I don't have solar.

We are full time and parked with 50amp.

Questions:

1. Is this a simple swap battery for battery type of deal, acknowledging I am going from 8 to 4? Do you need to disconnect anything at the inverter or anywhere or can you just start taking the batteries out? I'll take before pics.

2. Is it a problem to leave the A/C (and the rest of the coach) on since we are on 50A without the batteries?

3. Should I get the battery heating pads?

4. Any accessory suggestions like the battery monitoring system?

5. Should I replace all the cables?

Any thoughts to this project appreciated.

[Driveby]

There are many types of lithium batteries. Some (like Battle Born) are effectively drop in style replacements and you just need to tune your charger. They have Battery Management systems built in. Others don't and there are even some good YouTube videos on how to build your own from 2v cells.

There is a "green" forum here that has given me many hours of reading as I plan out our next coach - https://www.irv2.com/forums/f56

[computerguy]

Yes you should disconnect EVERYTHING that provides power. If not and you happen to let a positive cable touch a negative or a ground and you'll have done some damage, at least blown a catastrophic fuse and more likely taken out some electronic equipment.
Dan and Jen Nevada have a Newmar and did the upgrade. Here's their video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjsn_aIcJqE

[creativepart]

Can you explain if you are "full time and parked with 50amp" why you want to change to batteries that are ideal for dry camping/boondocking without access to shore power?

I'm assuming you just left out the part where you want to head off into the wilderness.

[RMD3819]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Can you explain if you are "full time and parked with 50amp" why you want to change to batteries that are ideal for dry camping/boondocking without access to shore power?

I'm assuming you just left out the part where you want to head off into the wilderness.

Should have clarified-we are parked for the winter in Texas. Like most everyone we are in a holding pattern right now.

We boondock at WM and such rather than the wilderness. My coach is a 2016, which means the batteries are 2015 or earlier. They corrode like crazy. Since they will need replacement sooner rather than later I figure do it now before a problem and eliminate the corrosion.

[Dutch Star Don]

I would just change them out to AGM's, much less expensive, maintenance and acid free. They woud be fine for your type of camping.

[creativepart]

I think a case can be made for LiPo batteries whenever you need to replace your weakened lead acid batteries. But obviously, you could replace yours with AGMs and save a lot of money and still have years of Wallydocking and occasional dry camping and no corrosion in your battery compartment without going all the way to LiPo.

But, back to your initial question. With LiPo batteries you can buy drop in replacements (I'm assuming you need Group 31 batteries) that more or less just need a few changes to be made.

First, you'll need to adjust your charging profiles on what I assume is an Inverter/Charger and not a converter. For most recent inverters this is a simple change in the inverter setup via the remote on the inverter.

Second, you'll need to consider alternator charging and how you want to deal with that. Some folks ignore the issue and just let the stock alternator do the charging while driving. Others use a battery isolator to separate the alternator output (permanently or intermittently) from the LiPo batteries, and others still use a DC to DC charger to custom charge their LiPo batteries via the alternator. You'll want to read up on these options and decide for yourself.

And... no matter what batteries you use for your RV you should install a shunt-based battery monitor to get an accurate reading on all power in and out of your battery bank and a state of charge (SOC) in percentages not voltages.

Most would say a robust solar install is necessary but I hear from other RVs that the LiPo battery advantages are so large that solar just isn't as mandatory as it would be with lead acid batteries.

[Lv2Roam2]

I looked very hard at lithium - decided to go with Lifeline AGMs. Two biggest lithium concerns were the price and operation in freezing temps. Of course - both these obstacles can be overcome. There are many posts about lithium systems on IRV2.

If you boondock frequently I'm a huge fan of solar systems (fixed or portable). Lithium and AGM batteries love solar power.

[Tilzbow]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

I would just change them out to AGM's, much less expensive, maintenance and acid free. They woud be fine for your type of camping.

Everything in this post is accurate except the fact that AGM batteries are not acid free:

AGM battery
Featured snippet from the web
AGM or Absorbent Glass Mat is an advanced lead-acid battery that provides superior power to support the higher electrical demands of today's vehicles and start-stop applications. AGM batteries are extremely resistant to vibration, are totally sealed, nonspillable and maintenance-free

[vsheetz]

Here's a pretty good article on the care and feeding of Lithium batteries.

https://www.solacity.com/how-to-keep...tteries-happy/

[Rev. Roy]

Am I correct in thinking you're swapping 8 6v batteries for 4 12v ones? If so, just make sure you do them in parallel not series. That sounds like something you should know but I have learned never to assume. Always shut off all power when swapping batteries just to be safe. We opted to not go lithium because we don't dry camp enough to justify the cost.

[Dutch Star Don]

Originally Posted by Tilzbow

Everything in this post is accurate except the fact that AGM batteries are not acid free:

AGM battery
Featured snippet from the web
AGM or Absorbent Glass Mat is an advanced lead-acid battery that provides superior power to support the higher electrical demands of today's vehicles and start-stop applications. AGM batteries are extremely resistant to vibration, are totally sealed, nonspillable and maintenance-free

I think most know what I meant by acid free.....no off gassing and EXTERNAL acid issues.

[Vickie 4369]

Originally Posted by RMD3819

I am considering pulling the trigger and replacing my 8 OEM batteries with 4 lithiums because of the corrosion. I'll also have to clean the tray. I don't have solar.

We are full time and parked with 50amp.

Questions:

1. Is this a simple swap battery for battery type of deal, acknowledging I am going from 8 to 4? Do you need to disconnect anything at the inverter or anywhere or can you just start taking the batteries out? I'll take before pics.

2. Is it a problem to leave the A/C (and the rest of the coach) on since we are on 50A without the batteries?

3. Should I get the battery heating pads?

4. Any accessory suggestions like the battery monitoring system?

5. Should I replace all the cables?

Any thoughts to this project appreciated.

If you are parked witht 50 amp you don't need lithium this is more for boondocking and brings on huge cost, additional insulation heating and monitoring and special charge profile.

I feel you on the corrosion, the primary reason I replaced mine while coach was brand new, and went to Lifeline 300 amp hour AGM

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/my-...es-480769.html

I also installed a BMK and ME-ARC Lots of info here https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/ins...dp-328734.html

[twojayhawks]

Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don

I think most know what I meant by acid free.....no off gassing and EXTERNAL acid issues.

I know what you meant Don & I'm just mentioning this to be annoying. There is still a very small amount of off gassing certainly a fraction of what a flooded batt gives off. Below from Lifeline's site;


Can Lifeline® AGM batteries be installed in sealed containers?

NO! Do not install Lifeline® AGM batteries in a sealed container or enclosure. During storage, charging, or discharging hydrogen gas can be released and must be ventilated to prevent the possibility of ignition and/or explosion.