Tightening loose passenger side mirror on 2006 DS

[catrispoli2]

Newmar 2006 DS

Sharing our experience with large and small repairs as new owners. Hope this is helpful to others!
Issue:
Loose passenger side mirror
Part/Model:
Ramco Heated Remote Mirror
How:
Removed plug on top of plastic cover with pick or small SSD
Using 9/16 socket remove arm mount bolt (have helper hold mirror as it weighs 15 lb or more) We fished wire out thru mount to unplug. We removed plastic housing to access lag bolts for tightening mirror mounts. Then we tightened bolts firmly
Our Difficulty: removing plastic housing from mounting block due to (what we found later was)a large blob of silicone on top securing the housing.
Process: used thin plastic prying tool gently in access hole then pried up to release silicone. Be gentle.

[jarwiebe]

We had the same situation. In our case, I went to the next larger size of lag bolt and applied 3m 5200 to it before tightening it down. Solid as a rock now.

[catrispoli2]

Thanks, Jarwiebe, this will be searchable to assist others! I couldn't find any threads so now it is. Happy Easter!

[edge68474]

I read your blog. Very nice. Welcome to the forum. You will be a great asset here, I can tell by your attitude. Lots of good people here and very helpful. I have learned and still am from the members. They are GREAT!!
Again, welcome and enjoy your trip.

[Winemaker2]

Thanks
I've had the same issue with my 2013 VTDP and recently it seems to be getting a little worse.
I was wondering what the backing is that the mount fastens to?
Is it sold I'd and only a mounting issue or is the backing part of the problem?
The driver side is solid but also shorter arm than passenger so a lot less torque on the mounting.

[catrispoli2]

Hey Winemaker, I replied and now can’t find my reply, so sorry. Anyway looking at the bracket, the upper and lower right-side lag bolts go into fiberglass only. The left upper and lower go into an aluminum bracket so even when the right side is tightened they aren't perfect because the fiberglass still moves. It was better but not perfect and it is still a bit annoying. Hope that helps! Keep us posted.

[Winemaker2]

Originally Posted by catrispoli2

Hey Winemaker, I replied and now can’t find my reply, so sorry. Anyway looking at the bracket, the upper and lower right-side lag bolts go into fiberglass only. The left upper and lower go into an aluminum bracket so even when the right side is tightened they aren't perfect because the fiberglass still moves. It was better but not perfect and it is still a bit annoying. Hope that helps! Keep us posted.

OK thanks for clarifying. That makes sense as the driver side seems solid but shorter arm while pass side seems loose w the longer arm. I will likely pull it to at least take a look but won't be soon as priority now is getting boat ready & in the water.
Thanks

[Winemaker2]

I finally had time and decided to tear into the mirror looseness issue to see what I could find and fix based on inputs so far. What I found...

My pass side mirror mount was getting worse over time and I could observe a noticeable movement of the "mounting block" when putting a force on the mirror arm.
I had a shop tighten it up when in for other work several yrs ago and it was marginally better but loosened up over time.
Removing the mirror & arm is straightforward - remove plug from bottom of housing plastic cover trim. Loosen the 9/16" bolt on the arm pivot. Having a helper is beneficial as the mirror & arm assy are heavy and it takes 2 hands to pull out & release the plug for the remote operations.
With arm removed the plastic trim cover comes off fairly easy (may have some sealant around edges that needs to be cut and may have some internally that needs to be freed up gently.
Once removed the 4 (approx 1/4" flat head sheet metal screws are accessible and can be removed to free the cast alum mounting block.
What I found after probing, checking with a magnet and gouging out some foam from the center hole and from under the gennie hood close to the pass side mirror mount area - was the following...

Left (rear) side had a steel tubing structural member that the sheet metal screws went into. The right (forward) side screws only had the fiberglass front cap to attach to. It did appear that Newmar embedded a thin (1/8"?) strip of alum in the fiberglass cap in that area but it seemed marginal as a stiffener and backing for mirror attachment with the torque of the long arm and weight of the mirror. Plus the roughly 1/4" sheet metal screws also seemed inadequate.
I had a piece of fiberglass bar stock about 2" x 1/4" that I cut a piece about 14" long to use as a backing plate for the right (fwd) side mounting. The intent was to use larger (5/16 - 18 x 2.5") bolts / flange nuts to fasten through this stiffener.
I drilled & tapped the left side tubing holes to accept 5/16 - 18 x 2.5" bolts to replace the sheet metal screws.

After drilling & tapping the tubing and enlarging the holes & counter sink in the mounting block I did a dry fit assy to make sure everything lined up and went together OK. Last pic is the FG backer I used.
I used butyl tape instead of the foam "gasket" that was between the mounting block and the fiberglass front cap. The foam was distorted, compromised and didn't look like the best choice to me.
I buttered the back side of the fiberglass stiffener to adhere it to the FG cap and began assy. I could reach & install the nuts from the front under gen hood and get a wrench them to tighten.
I trimmed the butyl tape squeeze out and indarted the plastic trim cover after tightening the bolts several times. Clear caulk was used around the trim / front cap joint after cleaning off the old caulk and the mirror / arm assy reinstalled. Be sure to check remote mirror operation and approx location / visibility from driver seat / position before tightening down the pivot bolt completely.
The finished mounting seemed much more stable and had NO perceptible movement relative to the front cap when mirror arm was pushed / pulled on.
Any questions - let me know - PM me