Community Forums

rcatter · 08-27-2011, 12:16 PM

2003 Dutch Star boondocking. Generator not providing AC electricity to coach. Using portable generator plugged in shore power cord and AC power worked so it seems the transfer switch is not working. Also, we have a BIRD. Transfer switch is ITS-50 R model. Sure could use some help if someone has an idea as it is almost 100 degrees lol! Note- generator was providing AC power on the way up here. Stopped genny and restarted later in the evening and no power. Thanks.

siggyd · 08-27-2011, 12:31 PM

Have you checked the "breaker switch" on the generator itself ??--Reset it by switching it OFF--ON !

RJay · 08-27-2011, 12:31 PM

First, check the breaker on the generator then take the cover off the transfer switch and check if you can see/smell any evidence of arcing/burning. The transfer switch usually can not be repaired.

rcatter · 08-27-2011, 12:33 PM

Have reset the generator breaker and checked transfer switch. Don't see or smell anything out of normal. This one is is mind boggling me. Thanks for the replies.

RJay · 08-27-2011, 12:52 PM

As one last test put your hand on the cover of the transfer switch and have someone start the generator. You should feel the click of the switch after about 30 seconds. If you feel nothing, replace the switch. If you have access to a meter you could test the voltage on the coach side of the switch while the generator is running, if no voltage replace the switch.

"007" · 08-27-2011, 03:34 PM

With all power off try running a dollar bill through the relay contacts and check all wiring screw connections while your at it with the cover off.
You have wires from load center, from Gen and from your shore power cord with jumper wires between some doubled up wires.

pkmesser · 08-27-2011, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by "007"

With all power off try running a dollar bill through the relay contacts and check all wiring screw connections while your at it with the cover off.
You have wires from load center, from Gen and from your shore power cord with jumper wires between some doubled up wires.

The above will clean the contacts, however if they are pitted, use DW's fingernail emory board.

rcatter · 08-28-2011, 10:36 AM

Thanks for all the replies. When I took the cover off of the transfer switch there is a buss looking screw terminal strip across from left to right that all the connections are made. This appears to be blocking access to the relays behind the strip. Do you have to unwire all of those connections in order to get access to the relays? Doesn't look like it folds of the way.

bluefox · 08-28-2011, 10:51 AM

Make sure you have voltage up to the transfer switch from the gen.

Tallyrver · 08-28-2011, 11:04 AM

with the genny running you should be getting 110 v from the gen side of the switch . I replaced this switch on my last coach. notice the burned neutral wire . It was loose .

Wayne

Tallyrver · 08-28-2011, 11:17 AM

You should have 3 sets of wires coming into the switch box. 1 from the gen ,1 from the shore power and 1 going to the coach breaker panel.

http://blog.outsidesupply.com/RV/ima...ransfer-4.html

"007" · 08-28-2011, 12:21 PM

If you have that type TS not sure you can see the relays, do not see them unless they are towards the right, and you can dress the wires away from them.

rcatter · 08-28-2011, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tallyrver

You should have 3 sets of wires coming into the switch box. 1 from the gen ,1 from the shore power and 1 going to the coach breaker panel.

http://blog.outsidesupply.com/RV/ima...ransfer-4.html

That's the exact model I have and the diagram on the inside of my cover. Where is the time delay module they show in the diagram with the bypass switch? I haven't found it anywhere.

Also, I am not totally clear what purpose the BIRD serves. I unplugged a red wire on it that was marked relay while power was connected to house power and heard a relay click.

I am going over Tuesday with the meter to start testing. Hope I can narrow it down. We boondocks most of the time so genny power is a must.

Thanks again to all for trying to help.

pkmesser · 08-28-2011, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcatter

That's the exact model I have and the diagram on the inside of my cover. Where is the time delay module they show in the diagram with the bypass switch? I haven't found it anywhere.

Also, I am not totally clear what purpose the BIRD serves. I unplugged a red wire on it that was marked relay while power was connected to house power and heard a relay click.

I am going over Tuesday with the meter to start testing. Hope I can narrow it down. We boondocks most of the time so genny power is a must.

Thanks again to all for trying to help.

The BiRD controls charging of the two battery systems. As you have a diesel powered MH, when you were plugged in to shore power, your converter was chargeing the house battery system, unless they were isolated. When those batteries reached 13.3 volts or higher, the BiRD would then connect in the chassis batteries to charge them. When you pulled the connector, the relay (power solinoid) then opened (the click you heard), and stopped charging the chassis batterys. The reverse happens when the engine is running, the chassis batteries get charged to 13.3, and then the house batteries are connected, to allow them to charge also. The reason I say with the diesel engine, is that the trigger voltage with a gas engine is 13.1 volts.
I don't think the BiRD has anything to do with your current problem. The transfer switch that controls the 110 power is totally 110, and does not use 12 volts for control.

(BiRD = Bidirectional Relay Delay)