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Old 01-20-2022, 10:48 AM   #1
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Trantorque coupling problem - improper assembly

2005 Dutch Star 4023 Kitchen slide out trantorque bushing problem.

Unfortunately for me I mis-assembled both of my two trantorque couplings.

I installed the three "wedges" without engaging them in the nut. Now I can't get them back apart. I've tried everything that has been posted on this forum.

- Tapping the o.d. of the coupling
- separating the rear keyed shaft from the 1" diameter shaft and trying to pound the 1" diameter shaft out of the i.d. of the trantorque bushing.
- running the slide out in and out hoping the "wedges" break loose (when the slide out goes all the way in the rear coupling slips and you have to manually stop the motor by pushing the slide out button above the dash)

Newmar told me to spend a hour banging on the shaft and then to cut my shafts and buy new ones. Yikes.

I now know that to properly install the bushing you have to engage the three "wedges" into the nut (as the nut pulls the wedges out when you loosen it).

Any ideas short of cutting and welding?

This entire issue started because the "stop nut" on the rear of the all thread rod that is supposed to stop the slide out when it is moving out (there is a double nut that stops it from coming in too far on the same all thread rod) had it's tack weld fail allowing the single nut to move outboard and my slide out was stopping about two inches from the wall. If I had know there was a nut at that end of the all thread rod I could have fixed my problem in about 5 minutes. Instead, I'm about ten hours in and feel like I've made no progress.

I have attached two photos. One of my trantorque bushing improperly installed and a Newmar schematic of my single motor kitchen slide.

Apparently stupid, unskilled and frustrated in South Padre Island, Texas.

Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.
Attached Thumbnails
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Name:	trantorque coupling.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	337.1 KB
ID:	354282   Click image for larger version

Name:	slide out mechanism.jpg
Views:	23
Size:	180.1 KB
ID:	354285  

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Old 01-21-2022, 09:30 AM   #2
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Having broken the wedges on one trans torque bushing removal , I can sympathize .
Is the housing welded to the gear box output shaft ?
I can't tell from your picture .

Would it be possible , to loosen the gear box , or the drive cog housing , in order to wiggle the shaft, in the wedges ?

I'd be reluctant to apply heat , to the housing as that could actually tighten the housing to the wedges, and damage the gear box seals .

Is this the location of the bushing in question ? red box .
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Old 01-21-2022, 10:45 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
Having broken the wedges on one trans torque bushing removal , I can sympathize .
Is the housing welded to the gear box output shaft ?
I can't tell from your picture .

Would it be possible , to loosen the gear box , or the drive cog housing , in order to wiggle the shaft, in the wedges ?

I'd be reluctant to apply heat , to the housing as that could actually tighten the housing to the wedges, and damage the gear box seals .

Is this the location of the bushing in question ? red box .
Yes, it is welded.

Yes, I disconnected the aft keyed shaft from the trantorque shaft also thinking about wiggling the shaft. I wiggled it some but was concerned about damaging the gearbox as quite a bit of the motion was between the gearbox and the trantorque bushing. I also considered heat but was concerned about the gearbox seal also.

Unfortunately I mis- assembled both trantorque couplings. Im thinking about trying to drill a 3/16” hole on the back of the front trantorque so I can get a 5/32” punch and hammer one wedge out???

Im going out of town until Monday night so I’ll try it on Tuesday. I even thought if I could get the front shaft out I could pull the gearbox and rear shat out as one piece and go to a fab shop somewhere.

Thank you for your thoughts.
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Old 01-21-2022, 07:25 PM   #4
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I only have the one main slide , and my past mistake was on a friends 99 Newmar fifth wheel bedroom slide , I'll have a look at my coach and review the pictures I have of his set up ; and scratch my head ; then re-post any ideas.
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Old 01-24-2022, 09:48 AM   #5
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Without being hands on , this is the best idea that I've had .

If you do end up cutting the shafts , I'd be very careful to do so in a position where a welding shop could make a collar to slide over the cut and weld it, to save the shafts; probably 1/4 the cost of replacement .
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Old 01-24-2022, 12:59 PM   #6
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I was thinking the same thing. Cut the shaft right at the trantorque. Drill and bottom tap the cut off piece to pull the cutoff piece out by running a 3/8” fine threaded bolt down the center of the cutoff piece.

Now the shaft is 1-1.5 inches too short. Now cut the shaft again approximately in the middle and slide a slightly loose fit 6” long 1/4” wall thickness collar over the two “halves” and fillet weld the collar to the shaft. I may have to do this to the rear shaft because the coupling is too close to the gearbox.

Tomorrow I’m going to try drilling the “backside” of the forward coupling and see if I can tap one “120 degree wedge” out. I think if I get one out that may take the load off the coupling. Fingers crossed.
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Old 01-25-2022, 04:07 PM   #7
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I successfully got the front trantorque coupling wedges out!

I successfully removed the three 120 degree wedges from the improperly assembled front trantorque coupling. I drilled three 17/64" holes 120 degrees apart in the back of the female collar, sprayed PB Blaster into the three holes and hammered them out with a stout punch. (see attached file)

Do yourself a favor and don't improperly install the wedges or break the wedges by applying too much torque when loosening them.

I'm about 12 hours into this mistake that could have be solved in 5 minutes if I knew there was a single tack welded nut that broke loose and was keeping my slide from going all the way out. This single nut is on the same all-thread rod that has the double nut that stops the slide when retracting.


Trantorque coupling is suppose to be assembled clean and dry without any lubricant and torqued to 175 foot-pounds (if your shaft is 1" in diameter)
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Old 01-25-2022, 05:19 PM   #8
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Really Great write-up. Thanks
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Old 01-25-2022, 05:24 PM   #9
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Thanks
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Old 01-25-2022, 07:28 PM   #10
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Nice work. Sometimes you have to get ideas from others and then stew over them for a few days and come up with the best plan.

I carry the 1.5" socket and claw foot in case I ever have to work on the trans torque, but I hope it's never needed.
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Old 01-25-2022, 07:31 PM   #11
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Great that you've managed to correct your situation .

I'm downloading your file and if I find others with your issue , with your permission , I'll share it .
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Old 01-25-2022, 08:17 PM   #12
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Of course you can share it.

I still have the rear trantorque coupling to get apart :(
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Old 01-26-2022, 04:41 AM   #13
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Would you suggest adding a step of checking the torque on the trantorque bushings to the process of checking the bolt torque on slide motor mounting bolts?

I've had a full-wall slide trantorque bushing simply fall apart. I had no idea what these three wedges were lying next to my Oasis. I searched this forum and found a thread on this topic. I was able to reassemble and tighten it down to the required torque.

Thanks for the detailed write-up!
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Old 01-26-2022, 06:30 AM   #14
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That would not be a bad idea. I just think it might be important to have the slide out all the way out when you tighten it so the force is reacted to the single tack welded nut on the all thread shaft. I'm not sure about loading up the gearbox as the Newmar technician told me the slide out motor had an electric brake feature. (I just saw a brushed motor when I had it apart)????
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