Water Filters

[Mapnerd]

Originally Posted by TechWriter

Yes. Before we started full timing, we completely revamped our water filtration system:



A = Pressure Regulator
B = Sediment Filter (5 micron)
C = Carbon Block Filter
D = Water Softener
E = Flow Meter (measures GPM)
F = UV Filter Light

Finally, we have a RO (Reverse Osmosis) system under the kitchen sink.

Ho-ly Smokes. Now that's a water filtration system. I think we're going to monkey-see, monkey-do here. I really like how you used clear filter containers so that you can see how the filters are doing. The only other thing I think I'd want is some sort of indicator that the UV system is on.

[rlott2k]

While on the road we live with the 1 10” built in cartridge and a camco hose filter. Then we carry a couple 5 gallon jugs and fill them for $1 each. I can drink tap water but DW is always worried.
At home I have a 3 stage 4*20” filter system. 5micron particulate, 5 micron iron , manganese, then a 5 micron carbon block( coconut husk).

[TechWriter]

Originally Posted by Mapnerd

Ho-ly Smokes. Now that's a water filtration system. I think we're going to monkey-see, monkey-do here. I really like how you used clear filter containers so that you can see how the filters are doing.

Those are 10" Pentek Big Blue filter housings. Yep, my vote is with clear housings. You can tell when the sediment filter needs cleaning. Plus, I caught an algae outbreak before it spread too far. Green = Bad.

Originally Posted by Mapnerd

The only other thing I think I'd want is some sort of indicator that the UV system is on.

You really don't need one. Just put your hand on the UV chamber . . . if it's warm, it's on. However, replace the bulb every year.

The UV system in the photo in my post #8 has an external meter right above it in the photo. My UV system is an Sterilght Cobalt SCM-200 (now Viqua):


A = Stainless Steel Reaction Chamber
B = UV Light Intensity Sensor
C = UV Bulb Holder
D = Sterilight ICE (BA-ICE-CM) UV controller

My UV system is no longer made. If I were buying again, I'd probably get a Viqua VH200. It's relatively small and has a high flow rate.

[veraken]

Originally Posted by NealC

This is the one I ended up using. I bought a system from RV Water Filter Store and wasn't happy with it in the end, replaced it with this one and is working great for me, GREAT water pressure. Just replaced the filter with the same one that comes with the coach (0.5 micron - https://amzn.to/32xlFoP).

https://amzn.to/2JMzrLF

Can you post the link for the 5 micron replacement filter?

[rlott2k]

Clear housings are great, but pressure gauges are better. Water can dirty a filter pretty quick, while flow may not be restricted. That said, better than not seeing them.

[RandDescape]

I am using a Pura 2 canister system with UV in the right canister and a Camco big blue filter at the spigot with a pressure regulator on the coach side before the hose.

My daughter complained about water taste all the time in the Canyon Star with just the single housing. No complaints with this setup in the Ventana.

[richard5933]

Most of the filtration you're seeing is not going to do much if you're concerned about pathogens. Maybe they'll reduce the sediment, rust, and some chemical contamination, but it takes a pretty expensive filtration system to sanitize unsafe water and make it safe to drink.

So, if you're concerned about things that can happen to water as a result of what other people do with the water taps before you get there, like cleaning out their waste hoses and such, it might be time to take in a water sample for testing.

Around here many people have well water, and the county will provide very low cost testing for pathogens and a variety of other harmful things commonly found in water. I would guess that any community which has private wells will offer this type of testing at low or no cost.

It would give you lots of piece of mind to do testing like this periodically if you or your DW is concerned about the safety of your onboard water supply. Then you can add whatever filtration you want to correct the taste of the water and not worry.

[firedoc]

Originally Posted by NealC

This is the one I ended up using. I bought a system from RV Water Filter Store and wasn't happy with it in the end, replaced it with this one and is working great for me, GREAT water pressure. Just replaced the filter with the same one that comes with the coach (0.5 micron - https://amzn.to/32xlFoP).



https://amzn.to/2JMzrLF

Could you explain how you feel this filter set up is better than the one from rvfilterstore. You can IM me if you would like.

[NealC]

Originally Posted by firedoc

Could you explain how you feel this filter set up is better than the one from rvfilterstore. You can IM me if you would like.

Prior to using the setup from the RVWaterFilterStore often city water wasn't as good as with the water pump, many experience that. I got the RVWaterFilterStore setup and pretty much the same, maybe slightly worse, figured two filters was a cause and also the 1/2" connections vs. Newmar's 3/4". I got the one from Amazon as I dropped/cracked the filter bracket trying to fix a small leak chasing down a dog I was watching hence ordered the one from Amazon as a replaced. It uses 3/4" connections. I am amazed at the water pressure, I don't need water pump at all and don't understand why my pressure is so good now. I don't think there were any kinks in the lines etc. but I am thrilled with the water pressure even with a confirmed 0.5 micro sediment filter in front of the carbon filter. No water pump needed and if it's on at the switch it won't come on as the water pressure is above its threshold to come on. I have my water pressure regulator behind the city water reel, set around 40-50 psi, I typically don't see over 40 at CG's. The pressure is great, highly recommend the one from amazon and it's far cheaper than the others.

[zzotte]

Originally Posted by TechWriter

Yes. Before we started full timing, we completely revamped our water filtration system:



A = Pressure Regulator
B = Sediment Filter (5 micron)
C = Carbon Block Filter
D = Water Softener
E = Flow Meter (measures GPM)
F = UV Filter Light

Finally, we have a RO (Reverse Osmosis) system under the kitchen sink.

Really nice setup, I just don’t have that much room, your space it’s huge.

Zzotte

[TechWriter]

Originally Posted by richard5933

Most of the filtration you're seeing is not going to do much if you're concerned about pathogens. Maybe they'll reduce the sediment, rust, and some chemical contamination, but it takes a pretty expensive filtration system to sanitize unsafe water and make it safe to drink.

That's why I added a UV filter . . . which can now be had for about $200.

Originally Posted by richard5933

. . . it might be time to take in a water sample for testing.

In most cases I think this is impractical for an average RVer.

[TechWriter]

Originally Posted by zzotte

Really nice setup, I just don’t have that much room, your space it’s huge.

If I was doing it again, I'd probably install a smaller system (19"L x 16"H x 6"D) like this one from the Water Fixer Company:

Water Fixer Model 1000

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by TechWriter

That's why I added a UV filter . . . which can now be had for about $200.

In most cases I think this is impractical for an average RVer.

It may not work everywhere like it does here, but the testing is really quite simple. You pick up the test kit from the county office, fill the bottle, and take it back for testing. Results come in a week or so.

As part of the de-winterization process it wouldn't really add that much time. Could also be done if you have a little downtime in the summer. If you are over-wintering in the RV, it could be done near where you are spending the winter.

Is it a necessity? Not really, but it sure gives peace of mind to know for sure that the water system is doing well. Since we always run from the on-board water tank we may have water in the tank all season. Nice to know what (if anything) is in there aside from the water.

[zzotte]

Thanks Techwriter, that may just do the trick

Zzotte