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Old 12-01-2013, 09:01 PM   #1
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Water Heater Switch (no AC hot water)

This is a new thread that continues on my saga of no hot water with AC (propane is fine).

I have two switches for the AC component, one located in the compartment in the overhead at the entry to the coach (same spot as the DSI switch) and one located on the water heater itself. The one on the heater was getting hard to switch and then completely stuck in the 'on' position. At this same time I noticed i only had hot water on propane. Checked all my breakers and all was fine.

Today pulled the switch from the heater (you can just pry it out with a flat blade screwdriver) and checked it for continuity (open circuit in the 'on position) which indicated the switch was cooked. You can see in the pictures for those that are not tech savy how to check this out. Just get a volt meter and switch it to read resistance. Put one lead on each connecter and select the lowest scale for ohms on the meter. It should read 0.1 or close to this meaning a dead short...in my case it read infinite indicating an open circuit (should only read that when in the 'off' position).

I made up a short jumper as i don't have a replacement switch and will just turn it on and off now with the AC switch inside the coach. Twenty fice cent fix and hot water on AC again!

One question for the group - my drain plug looks like it hasn't been opened in years (just bought the coach this Feb) and even after spraying WD40 on it i couldn't get it to budget using vise grips. It looks like it is about a 1 inch bolt but i couldn't measure it. Does anyone happen to know the size of it and any suggestions on better spray to loosen up the rust?

enjoy the pictures and fix!

Mike
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:39 PM   #2
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You need a socket with extension to get it out and it will be a anon rod which you should check for value.
When rod dissolves can make a jell that will plug all the faucet screens in your faucets.
They make a water wand to flush out the bottom of tank.
When you replace the rod use some di-electric grease to lube the threads do not use tape needs metal to metal for rod to work correctly.
Don't forget a new switch.
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:45 PM   #3
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koresample,

That appears to be a 10 gallon Suburban hot water heater. If so, the drain plug should actually be an anode rod which has a 1-1/16" hex head and is about 9" long and screws into a standard 3/4" NPT female pipe thread. This is a magnesium covered rod that provides a sacrificial component to offset or equalize the effects of corrosion inside the water heater.

This magnesium anode rod is a Suburban part number 232767.

Once you get the old anode rod out, i would strongly suggest the female threads in the water heater be chased with a pipe tap and then use teflon tape on the threads of the new anode rod prior to re-installing it back into the water heater.

Not only will it likely be hard to break the anode rod loose, but there is likely nothing left of the magnesium material on the steel rod if it has not been removed for a long time. One trick would be to heat up the water heater tank, and then shut it down and apply ice to only the anode rod hex head, and then use a 1-1/16" socket and lever arm and hit the lever arm to simulate an impacting torque to loosen it.

You may also find there is a large build up of lime or calcium deposits on the anode rod, making it even more difficult to remove. If that is the case, I would suggest replacing the 1440 watt 115 volt AC heating element as it is likely also severely coated with calcium, reducing heat transfer efficiency of the heating element.

Hope this helps and happy RVg

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Old 12-01-2013, 11:15 PM   #4
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Thanks guys; I recall the tech that did the walk through showed me the anode and he said it looked pretty good (i think i recall it being a couple of inches long?). I will try some penetrating oil and grab the right size socket.
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
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koresample...Once you get the old anode rod out, i would strongly suggest the female threads in the water heater be chased with a pipe tap ...Jack
Where can one find a tap to chase female pipe threads? I have been looking for one for five years now so that I can chase the subject threads. I am beginning to think there is no such thing,commonly available, for pipe treads.

It's easy to find a male pipe threader, but female....???
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:16 PM   #6
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Where can one find a tap to chase female pipe threads? I have been looking for one for five years now so that I can chase the subject threads. I am beginning to think there is no such thing,commonly available, for pipe treads.

It's easy to find a male pipe threader, but female....???
Romeo
What you are looking for is a 3/4"-24 NPT pipe tap.

They can be found at ACE Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.........
OR here:
3/4"-14 NPT Carbon Steel Pipe Tap| DrillsandCutters.com

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Old 12-03-2013, 06:08 PM   #7
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Romeo
What you are looking for is a 3/4"-24 NPT pipe tap.

They can be found at ACE Hardware, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.........
OR here:
3/4"-14 NPT Carbon Steel Pipe Tap| DrillsandCutters.com

Mel
Well your're not going to believe me but I tried all those places and also Graingers and no one had them. I even searched the internet and did find one for something like $90. I guess I will have to try again, and maybe order from the link you provided... thanks.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:12 PM   #8
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Well your're not going to believe me but I tried all those places and also Graingers and no one had them. I even searched the internet and did find one for something like $90. I guess I will have to try again, and maybe order from the link you provided... thanks.

I used one of these...$10 at Harbor Freight..worked like a charm..:

Shower Valve Socket Wrench Set
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:35 PM   #9
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I used one of these...$10 at Harbor Freight..worked like a charm..:
Shower Valve Socket Wrench Set
Turbofans
How in the world did you restore/chase the 3/4"-24 pipe threads in your WH drain/anode fitting with a Shower Valve Socket?
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
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I used one of these...$10 at Harbor Freight..worked like a charm..:

Shower Valve Socket Wrench Set
I have that same set. Believe me, they do not have the strength to remove a frozen drain plug.
koresample - as said, you need a 1 and 1/16 inch socket. Make sure it is 1/2 inch drive, with a 3 inch extension and a 1/2 inch breaker bar.
PB Blaster is a good soak to help break the rust loose.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:48 PM   #11
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When you do get it out be sure to wrap the new threads really good with teflon tape and the next time you go to pull it ........Easy.
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:44 PM   #12
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Turbofans
How in the world did you restore/chase the 3/4"-24 pipe threads in your WH drain/anode fitting with a Shower Valve Socket?
Mel
'96 Safari
I think he misunderstood what we were referring to... "thread chaser".
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Old 12-05-2013, 05:00 PM   #13
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The Suburban water heater rod replacement

Do not over wrap the threaded end all with tape, the rod electrolysis will not work, the threads need to make contact with the threads of tank liner.
After install take a meter with the buzzer or tone setting and put one lead on nut cap and the other on tank liner threads. you should get a tone.
If you do not get it than remove some of the tape, one half of the threads should do it with tape.
Because of possible rust I have always used di-electric grease on my threads and never had a problem removing the rod.
You will be checking the rod every time you winterize your coach and draining the water heater if your a warm weather person better do it on annual spring check up of systems in coach.
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007";1833794]Do not over wrap the [URL="http://www.rvecafe.com/ano.html
threaded end all with tape[/URL], the rod electrolysis will not work, the threads need to make contact with the threads of tank liner.
After install take a meter with the buzzer or tone setting and put one lead on nut cap and the other on tank liner threads. you should get a tone.
If you do not get it than remove some of the tape, one half of the threads should do it with tape.
Because of possible rust I have always used di-electric grease on my threads and never had a problem removing the rod.
You will be checking the rod every time you winterize your coach and draining the water heater if your a warm weather person better do it on annual spring check up of systems in coach.
Since a dielectric grease has insulating characteristics, I would think that a metal-flake infused anti-seize compound would work better. It comes in Nickel, Copper, Aluminum versions. I have some Nickel and Copper but haven't used it yet. I originally had it to use when connection antenna tubing to preserve conduction between the tubing sections and preclude corrosion. I was going to wait until I could clean the thread with a thread chaser before I tried it. I also was not sure how good it was to use on potable water fittings.
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