Did your water pump ever work, or is this the first time trying it?
Does your water pump have multiple momentary switches (switch depresses and then springs back) throughout the coach?
If yes to both questions, your water pump controller (latching switch) may have gone bad. Newmar used an off brand that seems to have a high failure rate.
The controller is usually mounted within a foot or so from the water pump. Basically, every time you push a water pump switch, it grounds, sending a ground to the controller device. The latching device sees the signal and turns on the pump. The purpose is to reduce wiring in your coach.
The unit looks like this.
There is a very simple test to determine if the controller is bad. When a water pump switch is used, it sends a quick ground to the water pump, turning the pump controller on and creating a ground to the frame. The hot side (+) of the pump is connected directly to power. Rather than removing the 12 volt power (+) to shut the pump off, the pump controller removes the ground. If you simply take a wire, attach it to ground and then touch it to the ground on the water pump, the water pump will run if the pump controller is bad. If it doesn't run, you either have a bad pump or no 12 volt (+) power to the pump.
I know this was a little detailed, but everyone should now how these work if their pumps quit. The pump controllers can be bought on Amazon for about $35.00. The Intellitec brand is a much more reliable brand. I keep a spare.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=3CGETAKGZXRXQ
), and then switched the inlet valve back so that any water connection would go directly to the coach plumbing and not the holding tank. 
Linear Mode
