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Old 09-19-2020, 11:51 AM   #1
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Water Tank Fill Valve Question

Currently have excessive air in water lines and searching for the source. Have bled lines several times over the last week with no change.

I suspect tank fill valve but ignorant about how to diagnose.

When I turn the valve to Ďfillí the pump runs and I hear water moving. Not hooked up to any City or campground water supply. Why is pump running with no external water supply to the valve?
There are no faucets open so no demand for water.

My pump is a Remco 55Aquajet, (6 years old).
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Old 09-19-2020, 12:00 PM   #2
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Open Fill Valve cause pump to 'round robin' ---- sucks water from fresh water tank and then discharge goes back to fresh water tank via open Fill valve

Air in system using pump
Pump suction side.... (discharge side under pressure)
Any hose clamps (loose), crack in suction line, strainer cracked/bad o-ring, pump casing cracked, 'winterizing valve' open
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Old 09-19-2020, 12:42 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
Open Fill Valve cause pump to 'round robin' ---- sucks water from fresh water tank and then discharge goes back to fresh water tank via open Fill valve

Air in system using pump
Pump suction side.... (discharge side under pressure)
Any hose clamps (loose), crack in suction line, strainer cracked/bad o-ring, pump casing cracked, 'winterizing valve' open
Old Biscuit,

Thanks for reply and info!

Winterize valve is closed, the suction hose is plugged and clamped.

Hose clamps are pex, donít have tools for that (yet). Hoses appear tight.

I will dismount the pump from wall and inspect Strainer, o ring and pump case.

I have a back up pump just in case itís the pump.
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Old 09-20-2020, 12:24 AM   #4
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speedway.... not sure, but you may be missing old biscuitís point. Youíll never clear the airy lines until you get some external water inflow.
Right now, when you open the fill valve youíre allowing water from a pressurized line to flow toward the fresh tank. This decreases the pressure the pump outlet feels, allowing the pump to turn on. Now the pump is drawing water from the fresh tank and pumping it back into the fresh tank.
Connect an outside water source, shut off the pump, and open the fill valve. Youíll hear the water flow to the fresh tank. Shut off the tank fill valve, and go inside. Open the hot and cold valve at each sink, (kitchen, bath, shower), and let them run until the air clears. Shouldnít take long. Now step on the flush pedal until that also runs free of air. Done.
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedway View Post
I will dismount the pump from wall and inspect Strainer, o ring and pump case.

I have the same pump and had a problem with the pump sucking air. It was the gasket on the strainer. When troubleshooting, I removed the strainer completely to better isolate it as the problem. The strainer has male / female connectors and can easily be bypassed.
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Old 09-20-2020, 07:25 AM   #6
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speedway.... not sure, but you may be missing old biscuitís point. Youíll never clear the airy lines until you get some external water inflow.
Right now, when you open the fill valve youíre allowing water from a pressurized line to flow toward the fresh tank. This decreases the pressure the pump outlet feels, allowing the pump to turn on. Now the pump is drawing water from the fresh tank and pumping it back into the fresh tank.
Connect an outside water source, shut off the pump, and open the fill valve. Youíll hear the water flow to the fresh tank. Shut off the tank fill valve, and go inside. Open the hot and cold valve at each sink, (kitchen, bath, shower), and let them run until the air clears. Shouldnít take long. Now step on the flush pedal until that also runs free of air. Done.
JFXG, thanks for the reply! Currently in a COE campground with no water access at my site. One more night here then we will be back in FHU campgrounds for the duration of this trip and I can bleed the system properly.
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Old 09-20-2020, 08:43 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by flyboy013 View Post
I have the same pump and had a problem with the pump sucking air. It was the gasket on the strainer. When troubleshooting, I removed the strainer completely to better isolate it as the problem. The strainer has male / female connectors and can easily be bypassed.
Flyboy,
Thanks for that information! I pulled the pump and found a small piece of debris lodged in the O ring seal on the strainer. Disassembled strainer, cleaned, put petroleum jelly on O ring and reassembled. Held pressure when I covered one end and blew into it.

I went ahead and installed the new Remco pump. Despite ordering the same part# as my old pump, the new one is rated at 65PSI vs the old one at 75PSI.
The good news is new pump is much quieter (2 missing rubber grommets and 1 mounting screw made it noisy).

Bad news is, it wonít shut off!

Could the lower PSI rating on the new pump be the reason?

If I shut the pump off, then a few minutes later turn it back on, it doesnít run until there is demand for water.

My old pump was shutting off (albeit slowly). Now this one is still running after 5 minutes.
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Old 09-20-2020, 10:08 AM   #8
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New pump has it's own pressure switch and is set to shutoff at 65# and start at 50# (15# differential)

With pump running open EACH faucet hot/cold side, shower faucets hot/cold side (inside/outside), toilet, hot/cold low point drains, washer hot/cold etc and bleed all air from system

If pump still continues to run w/o any demand then start checking for LEAK (Water heater T&P Relief, City Water Inlet, water line fittings, etc)

No Leaks and still runs.....pump pressure switch stop set point
OR Bypass out of adjustment (IF PUMP HAS AN INTERNAL "BYPASS")


REMCO MODEL?
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Old 09-20-2020, 10:52 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit View Post
New pump has it's own pressure switch and is set to shutoff at 65# and start at 50# (15# differential)

With pump running open EACH faucet hot/cold side, shower faucets hot/cold side (inside/outside), toilet, hot/cold low point drains, washer hot/cold etc and bleed all air from system

If pump still continues to run w/o any demand then start checking for LEAK (Water heater T&P Relief, City Water Inlet, water line fittings, etc)

No Leaks and still runs.....pump pressure switch stop set point
OR Bypass out of adjustment (IF PUMP HAS AN INTERNAL "BYPASS")


REMCO MODEL?
55AQUAJET ARV

My old pump was shutting off so I am discounting a leak. Although a leak is always a possibility I see no obvious evidence. We are parked on concrete for last 12 days with no wet spots.
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Old 09-20-2020, 11:22 AM   #10
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My 1st post was generic RV Pump info

REMCO 55AQUAJET ARV is set up differently
Uses a variable speed controller
Has a Start pressure setting of 40-45#
Has a STOP pressure setting of 85-90# (PER REMCO SPECS)
Has running pressure of 55#
IS rated at 5.3gpm
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Old 09-20-2020, 04:06 PM   #11
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55AQUAJET ARV

My old pump was shutting off so I am discounting a leak. Although a leak is always a possibility I see no obvious evidence. We are parked on concrete for last 12 days with no wet spots.
I decided to by pass the strainer as a test. Without strainer pump shuts off in 3-4 seconds!
Order new one on Amazon.

Thanks again to all for great advice and help!
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Old 09-20-2020, 04:25 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by speedway View Post
I decided to by pass the strainer as a test. Without strainer pump shuts off in 3-4 seconds!
Order new one on Amazon.

Thanks again to all for great advice and help!
Pump suction strainer?
Is it cracked or bad O-ring?

Glad you found issue and fix is easy
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:16 AM   #13
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Pump suction strainer?
Is it cracked or bad O-ring?

Glad you found issue and fix is easy
I canít see anything obvious, no cracks in the plastic housing, O ring looks ok but itís hard and lacks flexibility.
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