What Buffer To Buy Waxing/polishing

[Triangle Drifter]

Years ago I bought a Makita 9227C Electronic Sander-Polisher 7". Not cheap but one of those tools that you buy for life. I actually have 2 of them. One stays on our 5er in the US. The other in Bermuda & is now over 30 years old having done much tougher work polishing boats than any RV.

[Pine Stump]

Thinking may be happy with the G-9 Griots as not sure about the long throw yet?
Have bought several things from Chemical Guys also but like the 1st time buyer discounts from others..

[KennyGolub]

What does "long throw" actually mean ?


.

[F4Gary]

I think it means it has a larger "orbit".


From the Griots website:



"It should be noted that long-throw polishers are not ideally suited for application of waxes and sealants. Their large throw tends to cure the wax unevenly with the exception of our BOSS™ Finishing Sealant whose formula is designed to comply with the heat cycling of long-throw orbits. The G8 or G9 are our most suitable tools for wax application. Also, the G21, when converted to a 5" backing plate and fitted with a BOSS Microfiber Fast Cutting Pad is our most aggressive paint correcting combination."

[Isaac-1]

Originally Posted by reubenray

Which model number?

7424XP I bought it about 6 years ago

[bluefin]

You should also read up on the microfiber towels. There is a special way to wash and dry them. If done wrong, you can ruin them and that will lead to scratches.

[CWSWine]

I have four different type of buffers when I had my show cars. The DA is the least learn curve and does a good job doing light correction. I will warn you if you have even touch of arthritis in your hands you won't enjoy using any buffer. After about 30 minutes my had get so bad that I can't even hold the buffer.

[zzotte]

I also use Griots orbital buffer, it’s great and a lot more forgiving then say a Flex

Zzotte

[Earl II]

I went with the Griot's G21 BOSS. Bought multiple sponge pads to go with the right product for the different jobs. They advertise that you cannot damage your paint with one. I am pretty happy with it.

[Bobby F]

Originally Posted by Earl II

They advertise that you cannot damage your paint with one. I am pretty happy with it.

That indeed is the trade-off. A lower-powered machine won't damage your paint, and so it's great for waxing and polishing. But if you need to remove material - if you need to get into actual abrasive action - you'll be at it a long time.


For about 85% of users, the lower-powered option is the correct choice.

[Pine Stump]

Originally Posted by bluefin

You should also read up on the microfiber towels. There is a special way to wash and dry them. If done wrong, you can ruin them and that will lead to scratches.

Thanks I did not know until started this thread about the quality of MFTs...So how do u wash and dry?

[Earl II]

Originally Posted by Bobby F

That indeed is the trade-off. A lower-powered machine won't damage your paint, and so it's great for waxing and polishing. But if you need to remove material - if you need to get into actual abrasive action - you'll be at it a long time.


For about 85% of users, the lower-powered option is the correct choice.

I used it with the McGuire's Gelcoat restorer on our previous rig and it did its job. I never could have done it by hand.

[Betr2Trvl]

Microfiber care came up, and I’ll add a few thoughts.

There are microfiber cleaners, I’ve never used them.
I wash all microfiber separate from all other laundry. Use only liquid detergent so you don’t get residual granular particles in the towels that will scratch.
No fabric softeners in the washer, nor softener sheets in the dryer.
On our HE machine, I use “deep water” setting and hot water.
If a towel gets “real dirty” for some reason, I prewash it in a sink.

For any sort of towels you use, microfiber or otherwise:

Towels never touch the ground. If they do, it’s at least done for the day, and in any case you need to thoroughly inspect it before you use it again. Some times they end up in the “nasty job pile” and never see a painted surfaces again.

In fact, it’s pretty much second nature for me to inspect every towel I use, every time I use one for washing / drying / polish / “waxing”.

Completely remove any labels, they can seriously scratch the paint surface. Completely means the entire label is removed, stitching and all. Sometimes it’s just easier to cut off the entire corner or edge of the towel and be done with it. Never try to just cut off the label, because that little piece left can scratch the paint like a razor blade.

Towels are a tool of detailing and have specific uses, just like those in your tool box. Drying towels are for drying, wax removal towels are for wax / sealants, polish removal towels are for polish, etc. Towels you use on your wheels / wheel wells, etc. never touch anything else, ever.

That’s it for now, and I think I’m forgetting something, but I’m just finishing my first cup of coffee.....

That microfiber shelf is full front to back and I have another bin on the coach ; the bin on the floor are the the “liquid” products that live on the coach. And yes, I can tell you what each color towel is used for .

[Winemaker2]

When I was in the market for a DA polisher I got lucky and found a Flex DA on CList and picked up for about 1/2$. As far as I know Flex is the only one that has a positive drive on both rotation and oscillation. Reviews were very positive and while I haven't had the need to serious correction it does the job very well on light cutting & swirl removal.