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Old 03-01-2014, 09:02 PM   #1
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Wheel bearing oil

I have a 2004 Dsdp with 65k miles and have not changed the front wheel bearing oil. I have a Spartan Chassis and have looked at the Spartan info and did not see info on how to do it. Any info from members who have done this would be appreciated.
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:26 PM   #2
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Easy. Pop off the center red plug, rotate wheel so the hex plug on side of hub is at the bottom and let the fluid drain out.
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:13 AM   #3
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Wheel bearing oil

Thanks Slabman

I will give it a try
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:21 AM   #4
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Entire Stemco wheel hub needs to be removed, six bolts, and you then you can suction the oil out. Then replace the gasket, clear cover and red center plug for the Stemco wheel hub cover, and refill with manufacture's recommended oil likely 85w gear lube. here is a link for the parts you will need. Stemco Hub Cap Window Kit

IF you only rotate wheel cover with hex head drain plug facing down, you will only get about half the oil drained. I talked to a Pacific NW CoachCare mechanic about this last year. Water had infiltrated my hub and the entire wheel had to be removed, HEAVY!, wheel bearings checked and all seals and gaskets replaced.

Mechanic said that most owners do the half drain and that was better than nothing, but incomplete changing.

Before I talked to the mechanic I too had the same idea as Slabman. My education continues!
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Old 03-02-2014, 08:47 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Tigerfan1 View Post
I have a 2004 Dsdp with 65k miles and have not changed the front wheel bearing oil. I have a Spartan Chassis and have looked at the Spartan info and did not see info on how to do it. Any info from members who have done this would be appreciated.
Tigerfan
At 122k miles, I used one of these: Oil Suction Gun - Save on this Suction Gun at Harbor Freight, to remove the oil from my oil bath hubs.
I refilled them with: Lucus Hub Oil: https://www.lucasoil.com/products/di...id=35&loc=show.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:05 AM   #6
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Tigerfan1:

Your post got me to thinking about a maintenance item that I may be neglecting. I have a 2003 Workhorse W22 chassis and periodically inspect the sightglass on the front wheel bearings but have not replaced the specified 90W GL-5 oil since I purchased the coach although I have replaced all of the other fluids. I checked my Workhorse owner's manual for guidance and they specify "clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever comes first)" at every 30,000 miles. This is under the gasoline engine scheduled maintenance services guide.

I suppose "repack" in my oil bath situation means "drain and replace" although they could have been more specific about that. When I read "repack" I think of grease, not oil.

I hadn't been thinking about the possibility of a seal failure and water contamination of the oil bath.

Looks like I have another item on my de-winterization to-do list!
And I'll be doing it the complete removal way as pointed out by shaman2.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:06 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by shaman52 View Post
Entire Stemco wheel hub needs to be removed, six bolts, and you then you can suction the oil out. Then replace the gasket, clear cover and red center plug for the Stemco wheel hub cover, and refill with manufacture's recommended oil likely 85w gear lube. here is a link for the parts you will need. Stemco Hub Cap Window Kit

IF you only rotate wheel cover with hex head drain plug facing down, you will only get about half the oil drained. I talked to a Pacific NW CoachCare mechanic about this last year. Water had infiltrated my hub and the entire wheel had to be removed, HEAVY!, wheel bearings checked and all seals and gaskets replaced.

Mechanic said that most owners do the half drain and that was better than nothing, but incomplete changing.

Before I talked to the mechanic I too had the same idea as Slabman. My education continues!
This is true ... the kits are readily available from Ryder and cheap. Order 2 spares. Quite often, the old plastic window and plug have deteriorated from the sun. If the plug doesn't look red (pink, dull clay color, etc.) it's old and will probably fall apart if you try to take it out.

I use Lucas gear oil for a refill ... available at auto parts stores ... 1/2 bottle will do 2 wheels.
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Old 03-02-2014, 09:17 AM   #8
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I sucked mine out w/a Turkey baster then refilled!
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:18 AM   #9
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There is a special hub drain pan that works on front single wheels hubs and rear. Heavy Duty Axle Service, Super Single Axle Service, Dually Axle Service - Super Single Axle Drain Pan - The Professional Solution for Heavy Duty Axle Service
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:34 AM   #10
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I would suggest that a full hubcap and not the ones with the hole. This keeps te sun from deteriorating the window and the red plug. If the plug is pink replace it, it gets hard with age and can damage the window on removal. It is suppose to be red. All of the info in the post's also applies to tag axels
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:53 AM   #11
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..... I checked my Workhorse owner's manual for guidance and they specify "clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever comes first)" at every 30,000 miles. This is under the gasoline engine scheduled maintenance services guide.

I suppose "repack" in my oil bath situation means "drain and replace" although they could have been more specific about that. When I read "repack" I think of grease, not oil.
.....
I can see where people would think repack means drain and replace. But what this oiled lubed bearings does is kill the maintenance 100% unless there is a problem. Grease can start hardening over time and then only the grease directly on the bearing does the lube job.
unless you have a leak, low oil level, oil that has turned dark, or water intrusion (which would most likely look like whipped peanut butter) there is no reason to mess with it.
These bearing in the front hubs are the very same ones on OTR trucks have and if you don't have any of the problems I listed they will outlast your RV.
.
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Old 03-03-2014, 07:59 AM   #12
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Suppose hub oil capacities and drain procedures vary by brand but the front hubs on my MH [22.5 rims] have a deep internal cavity--perhaps 50% of the oil is in the hollow, below the level of the 6-bolt cover. The outer bearing also prevents insertion of a suction hose. Removal of the tire/hub is not for the faint of heart. Short of removal, believe the average owner can "exchange" maybe 1/2 the oil at a time--better than nothing.
Not sure about "water or other contaminates" getting in--unless hub is routinely submerged, its more likely a bad inner seal would let oil out--IMHO......
PS--the literature that came with the inner seal I replaced recommend seal replacement ever 100k, or was it 1mk--either way they are in the business of selling seals.
PSS--the catch pan shown above looks more applicable for a rear axle, I found that a couple strips of aluminum duck tape make an adequate lip to divert oil to a catch pan.
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Old 03-03-2014, 08:01 AM   #13
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I can see where people would think repack means drain and replace. But what this oiled lubed bearings does is kill the maintenance 100% unless there is a problem. Grease can start hardening over time and then only the grease directly on the bearing does the lube job.
unless you have a leak, low oil level, oil that has turned dark, or water intrusion (which would most likely look like whipped peanut butter) there is no reason to mess with it.
These bearing in the front hubs are the very same ones on OTR trucks have and if you don't have any of the problems I listed they will outlast your RV.
.
Big trucks(over the road) go and go with million plus miles on them, if no problem, same bearing oil...... but like always, what ever makes one comfortable.....
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:38 AM   #14
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Feelings are a wonderful thing but sometimes they get in the way of the facts--I am a firm believer in the following sayings: 1] becareful not to break two while "fixing" one and 2] never let perfect become the enemy of the good....good luck....
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