Winterizing lines to the fresh water tank

[4NADL]

First season I used the Baystar's fresh water tank. Today I winterized the motorhome with antifreeze by sucking it through the special connection using the water pump, but not sure that I got the line leading into the fresh water tank. Opened the valve for the tank and started the pump using the bottle of antifreeze, but nothing flowed through the valve, nor did the pump suck in antifreeze. When the valve is shut, the pump takes in the antifreeze and sends it to all the interior plumbing. I guess I could use a small hand pump and push it through that valve without using the regular water pump. I fill the tank before trips by using city water pressure into that same special connection and the tank fills. However, I can't send antifreeze in that way. I would think that by opening that valve, the pump should be able to send the antifreeze into those lines as it normally does for clean water. Thanks for any advice. Hope this is clear !!

["007"]

No need to winterize fresh water tank.
Place enough ANTI down the sink traps so will flow to the dump valves and leave them closed.
Also check the line from city water valve to youe whole house filter for red anti.
While pumping anti push city water valve plunger so anti comes out at you to fill this plumbing pipe, be careful and not get in face.
Leave drain valve open to fresh water tank.

Winterizing info

[4NADL]

Thanks, 007. I know that there is no need to winterize the fresh water tank itself. However, I want to make sure that antifreeze gets to all the narrow piping, valves, etc. which come from the tank to the point just below the water pump. There are several feet of tubing involved. There has to be a way to get antifreeze to these areas. Thanks again.

[DandS]

In order to get antifreeze into the fresh water tank lines and or the tank itself, turn the tank fill valve on your intake line from city water to tank fill while pumping the antifreeze solution out of the bottle with the pick-up tube.

["007"]

When you pump the anti through pump all pipes will be filled in plumbing system, just check that small pipe from city water connection to filter if you have one.
One other is the pipes if pre-plumed for washer dryer connections.
All other pipes from fresh water tank should have drained out if your water lines valves are turned correctly.

[Redman07]

One option would be to just hook up an air compressor to the city water connector and blow out the line. Use low pressure, about 40 lbs. An alternate trick I was shown on my TT was, after you make sure you have the pink stuff coming out of the outdoor shower connection, then hook up the outside shower connection (output) to the city water connection (input) and just run a small amount of antifreeze through he system. You may need to build a special adapter hose but you can get the parts at the big box hardware stores.

[JC2]

Originally Posted by Redman07

One option would be to just hook up an air compressor to the city water connector and blow out the line. Use low pressure, about 40 lbs. An alternate trick I was shown on my TT was, after you make sure you have the pink stuff coming out of the outdoor shower connection, then hook up the outside shower connection (output) to the city water connection (input) and just run a small amount of antifreeze through he system. You may need to build a special adapter hose but you can get the parts at the big box hardware stores.

This info might be a little more helpfull to the members if you could possibly describe/name the parts/or show pics if you have this setup.

[DandS]

It isn't rocket science......simply turn "on" the "tank fill" valve while pumping antifreeze with the winterizing pick-up. Going thru gyrations like Redman07 posted is the hard way and a lot of extra effort but it probably would work.

[Redman07]

I stopped by my most favorite store in the whole world (Lowes) on the home from work. I was looking for connectors to make an adapter hose. Instead I found an adapter that will work.



Just use it to replace the shower head on the outdoor shower.



Then connect it direct to the "City Water Fill" connection.



Turn on the outdoor shower and run some pink stuff into the lines to the fresh water tank. You can also flip the tank fill switch to fill the rest of the lines.

You can also move it over to the Sewer Rinse connector if you want to protect that line. (I would just soak the connector in bleach afterwards. )

Oh, grand total $4.20 with tax.

[JC2]

Originally Posted by Redman07

I stopped by my most favorite store in the whole world (Lowes) on the home from work. I was looking for connectors to make an adapter hose. Instead I found an adapter that will work.

Attachment 48809

Just use it to replace the shower head on the outdoor shower.

Attachment 48807

Then connect it direct to the "City Water Fill" connection.

Attachment 48808

Turn on the outdoor shower and run some pink stuff into the lines to the fresh water tank. You can also flip the tank fill switch to fill the rest of the lines.

You can also move it over to the Sewer Rinse connector if you want to protect that line. (I would just soak the connector in bleach afterwards. )

Oh, grand total $4.20 with tax.

Thank you for taking the time to show/outline how your procedure works. Much appreciated by myself and others on this forum.

[MJFZ]

Originally Posted by DandS

It isn't rocket science......simply turn "on" the "tank fill" valve while pumping antifreeze with the winterizing pick-up. Going thru gyrations like Redman07 posted is the hard way and a lot of extra effort but it probably would work.

For what ever reason, the winterizing pickup on my DSDP does not transfer into the fresh water tank, even when the city water valve is turned to tank fill. Because of the the short run from the city water fill to the filter and the filter to the fresh water tank are left with water in them, needing to be blown out or anti freeze pumped into them.

Mike

[MJFZ]

Originally Posted by Redman07

I stopped by my most favorite store in the whole world (Lowes) on the home from work. I was looking for connectors to make an adapter hose. Instead I found an adapter that will work.

Just use it to replace the shower head on the outdoor shower.

Then connect it direct to the "City Water Fill" connection.

Turn on the outdoor shower and run some pink stuff into the lines to the fresh water tank. You can also flip the tank fill switch to fill the rest of the lines.

You can also move it over to the Sewer Rinse connector if you want to protect that line. (I would just soak the connector in bleach afterwards. )

Oh, grand total $4.20 with tax.

Thanks Redman07. I will stop by your favorite store and pick the adapter up.

Mike

[4NADL]

Thanks for all the replies. You folks are amazing !!
I think Mike (response #11), has hit the hammer on the nail. It appears that the valve switch at the city main entrance does not switch to the Tank Fill setting (it's defective). I tried to fill the tank that way at the beginning of the season.

I guess that my best bet is to try to hand pump antifreeze backwards from the pickup bottle toward the tank connection hose and hope that it gets all the way back to the city connection and not just shoot directly into the tank itself (the hose spits off at a tee and goes to the tank and then back to the city connection. In any event, it doesn't seem right that you have to inject antifreeze through the main city connection to protect that part of the system. The attached image is similar to my system.

I'm surprised that this issue hasn't arisen before. It appears that the connections to and from the fresh water tank may be vulnerable.

[Redman07]

"It appears that the valve switch at the city main entrance does not switch to the Tank Fill setting (it's defective). I tried to fill the tank that way at the beginning of the season."

Ah, a related problem. On my 07 DSDP the Fresh Water Tank Drain Valve was not working. You know the one hidden in the back under the control panel. Come to find out that Newmar had installed a good quality brass ball value with a plastic handle. What were they thinking? Seems the previous owner (and me in the first few tries ) may have twisted the handle too far or the wrong way and wallowed out the plastic handle. The handle would twist on the shaft without turning the ball valve. I checked with Newmar for a replacement handle, hoping to find a metal one. No luck. They did offer to sell me a replacement ball valve complete with a new plastic handle. I could not image the contortions it would take to replace the existing ball valve. And of course they use the compression crimped clamps for the hose connections. Good for long term connections, not easy to remove to replace the valve in tight quarters.

The solution. I took the handle off and threw it away. I found a ¼” open end wrench (in the pictures in the previous post) and use this to open and close the ball valve.

The point of this. On my DSDP it has the same type/style plastic handle on the Fresh Water Tank Fill selector and it is getting loose. I have to handle it with care. It could be that your handle has rounded out and is not turning the valve. You could replace the valve switch or try a ¼” open end wrench to see if the valve is defective.

PS. I like the plumbing diagram. Is this specific to your Baystar or a generic drawing? (Another way of asking where you got it. )