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Old 12-04-2021, 02:21 PM   #1
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Winterizing without draining fresh water

Have always drained the fresh water first when starting winterizing, but is it possible to leave the fresh water tank 1/2 full while doing all the other tasks? Always like to blow out what water I can from all the lines, then pump in the pink stuff till all faucets, stools, and frig water flows the pink.
Later all I'd have to do is turn the valve and drain the fresh water tank.

Reason: City has had to dig up front yard twice in last 5 weeks for water leak in the main line and install strap, must have missed the second leak the first time they dug down. Usually water will be off only minutes while wrapping and tightening nuts on strap. Those were only cracks but they said if cracks were worse they'd have to replace a long section of pipe and I'm sure water would be off a lot longer.
If that happens before real freezes start the wife and I would have the MH bathroom to use. Just a pessimust and trying to foresee problems.
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Old 12-04-2021, 02:25 PM   #2
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No reason I can think of that wouldn’t work for you.
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Old 12-04-2021, 03:10 PM   #3
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I would say, maybe/maybe not. The main fresh water tank would be ok for shorter freeze (mass and room for expansion at the top). The worry point would be the small section of water line from the tank to the wintering valve. A small heat would eliminate that issue on below freezing temperatures.
Another solution would be to completely wintering the MH, then if and when the city has to dig, they should give you enough notice to fill a couple of five gallon buckets in the bathtub. Also have some bottled water on hand for drinking. In our town, we've never had the water off for more than 3 or 4 hours.

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Old 12-04-2021, 03:12 PM   #4
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Takes VERY Cold temps and hours at those temps to freeze volume of water....surface can freeze

1/2 full fresh water tank will have LOTS of room to expand if needed
But suction line to pump, pump, rv plumbing lines could freeze/crack at fittings

Best to have bottles of water in bathroom to use for flushing toilet and hand wipes to clean up with
*water in line to toilet can freeze/crack toilet water valve

SO either Dewinterize OR leave furnace running
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Old 12-04-2021, 03:59 PM   #5
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But doesn't switching valves A and B in water compartment then pumping in the pink stuff take care of pump and all those little lines.? Am going to do all the winterizing except draining the fresh water tank. Just want the water available to flush stools and then re-winterize them.

Some of those small water line out of the water tank and between it and the pump I've always wondered about but after following directions for pumping in the pink I've haven't had any problems in all these years, but still couldn't help but wonder how they drain or get pink in them.

Our city has never given any warnings unless electricity or water will be off all day.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-04-2021, 04:30 PM   #6
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The wintering will take care of the RV plumbing from the wintering pickup tube through 2/3 rds of the wintering valve. When you drain the fresh water tank it will also drain the water line from the tank to the winterizing valve. It might only be 2 inches, maybe 12 inches long, but no mass to retain some heat AND a closed tube with plastic fittings and no room for expansion.

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Old 12-05-2021, 07:12 AM   #7
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Or leave the heat on set at about 45 degrees?
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Old 12-05-2021, 07:28 AM   #8
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I'd worry too about the small lines that still retain water. The one mentioned above from the tank to the winterizing valve, for sure. Ours has a drain that's just a small tube that hangs below the RV with a valve on it. That would be full of water and exposed to the cold as well.
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Old 12-05-2021, 07:34 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wagonmaster2 View Post
But doesn't switching valves A and B in water compartment then pumping in the pink stuff take care of pump and all those little lines.? <snip>
I would expect there to be a short length of water line that comes out the bottom of the tank and goes to the pump. That line is going to have water in it up to the point where it joins the diverter that you turn to winterize by pumping in antifreeze. As long as the tank has water in it that line will too, and that will be the weak point. You'll want to keep that area heated.
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Old 12-05-2021, 07:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny Loney View Post
I would say, maybe/maybe not. The main fresh water tank would be ok for shorter freeze (mass and room for expansion at the top). The worry point would be the small section of water line from the tank to the wintering valve. A small heat would eliminate that issue on below freezing temperatures.
Another solution would be to completely wintering the MH, then if and when the city has to dig, they should give you enough notice to fill a couple of five gallon buckets in the bathtub. Also have some bottled water on hand for drinking. In our town, we've never had the water off for more than 3 or 4 hours.

Ken
Ken gets my vote for best answer.
Storing a few buckets of water to flush with is pretty EZ w/o need to complicate anything else. A smaller container of potable water for drinking, cooking, etc also EZ
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