Community Forums

Dav L · 08-02-2020, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VP Chianese

Maybe we can get Charles to do that.

I noticed your ASE Cert and you said a long time ago. I took the first series of
ASE tests back in 1972. They were written by the folks that did the College Boards back then and were almost as bad. Had to really guess as to the alignment questions on US cars. I had never done a two wheel alignment. Porsche and Audi were four wheel requirements from the start, and we used shims on 914 Porsche's in the rear but on 911 and 912 it was an eccentric bolt affair. The fronts were McPherson struts and we moved them from the top for Caster and Camber. Also a lot of the overheating problems were different for us as well. Air cooled opposed to liquid. I passed but not with flying colors.

I have step by step instructions. One would need a USB to RS232 adapter, and a "custom" wiring harness that connects to pins under the Sonoff relay cover to send the new firmware to the Sonoff. Once you get it setup, then it only takes about two minutes. I do several Sonoff devices at once because it's quick once you have everything setup.

This then enables robust and accurate control of the relays from a control system that has a corresponding MQTT capability.

re: ASE credentials - I think I took the tests in the 80s. Not completely relevant but indicative that one has some understanding of systems and diagnostics. I can gauge just as much watching someone swing a hammer on their DIY ability

And then their approach to diagnosing a problem than what "official" credentials indicate.

deeperblue · 08-03-2020, 01:45 AM

Hi, Charlie:

I have another question:

I plan to splice into the barker switch's red flash's wires, and run wires from the splicing point to inside of coach so when I am inside I can know if it is open.

There are four wires connecting the switch to the valve, brown/green are for power to motor, yellow/white carries the signal that goes from valve to switch and causes the flashing red light on the switch.

How much is the voltage on the wire for the flashing red light? I tried to measure it using multi meter while it was flashing, all I can measure is an extremely low voltage, like 0.3V or maybe even lower. However, since the red light is flashing, so there is not constant voltage on the wires, so I guess that a regular digital multiple meter may not be able measure the voltage when the signal is there.

Do you know if the voltage is still 12V? Or it is a much lower voltage? I am asking because I plan to connect the wire from the splicing points to light emitting diode and need to know if I should add resister to the light emitting diode (I know they themselves can not take high voltage like 12V).

Thank you very much!

C.Martin · 08-03-2020, 04:32 AM

I never bothered to reverse engineer that function. The Barker valves and LEDs run off of 12v. That said...the lights probably have internal diode and resistors...I don’t remember. I have a picture somewhere...

C.Martin · 08-03-2020, 04:39 AM

So...I had wished that I would see a part number on the housing. You can see the white housing of the LED. It gets 12v as far as power to it...but there are i ternary components that regulate the LED and provide the flashing.

I would search for 12v led flashers...and see if you get so e hits. I added a large RED led flasher with a horn in my wet bay. I have it wired to my SeeLevelII ...if I want, I arm it...to go off at the % I want. Pain to program the way Garnett set it up. I just leave it a 15%. So when I flush, I get an aural and visual warning g the black tank is at or above 15% filled. This lets me cycle flush water a few times...and at least my wife hears the horn go off. Me...not so much sometimes.

C.Martin · 08-03-2020, 04:44 AM

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WGM4Z64..._uO-jFbHHH2N20

I would try these in your project...already rigged for flashing and 12v

C.Martin · 08-03-2020, 06:46 AM

Forgot to mention...so, if you have a motor, and now two leds running on the circuit. The supplied 1/2a fuse might blow occasionally. Does fine with the little motor and one LED, but you might have to go to 1A, if tagging on a second led.

Greasy Pete · 08-04-2020, 05:14 PM

Nice idea for the storage tanks but has anyone built an electric water valve?
now that the anderson kantleak has been discontinued I'm looking to replace mine.

redbaron73 · 08-04-2020, 05:23 PM

Here is an example of a 12v water valve.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794XJGBF..._T2EkFbT85JYP3

Winepress · 08-04-2020, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greasy Pete

Nice idea for the storage tanks but has anyone built an electric water valve?

now that the anderson kantleak has been discontinued I'm looking to replace mine.

This is what I use to flush the black tank.

Motorized Ball Valve- 1/2" Brass... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X9LWXMW...p_mob_ap_share

deeperblue · 08-05-2020, 04:54 AM

I figured out the wiring for the flashing light.
The white wire (among the four wires bundle) is connected to the power wire (i.e. the black wire of the black/white pair), and sends power to motor, and the yellow wire comes back from motor and becomes hot when the valve is open. The voltage on the yellow line is constant 12V when the red light is flashing. So something else is controlling the flashing.

So if I want to tap into it, I should tap into the yellow wire and then choose a ground. I have tested it.

Yes, I might need to go to 1 amp fuse. I will do some measurement.

I have another question, how do you remove the handle on the existing valve? I tried today but when I rotate the handle, the shaft rotates with it. Maybe I can use locking pliers to hold the shaft, but I am worried that it may cause dent on the shaft and affect the seal between the shaft and the hole that in which the shaft moves in/out.

How did you remove the handle?

Thank you very much.

Quote:

Originally Posted by C.Martin

So...I had wished that I would see a part number on the housing. You can see the white housing of the LED. It gets 12v as far as power to it...but there are i ternary components that regulate the LED and provide the flashing.

I would search for 12v led flashers...and see if you get so e hits. I added a large RED led flasher with a horn in my wet bay. I have it wired to my SeeLevelII ...if I want, I arm it...to go off at the % I want. Pain to program the way Garnett set it up. I just leave it a 15%. So when I flush, I get an aural and visual warning g the black tank is at or above 15% filled. This lets me cycle flush water a few times...and at least my wife hears the horn go off. Me...not so much sometimes.

RVRon · 08-05-2020, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deeperblue

I figured out the wiring for the flashing light.

The white wire (among the four wires bundle) is connected to the power wire (i.e. the black wire of the black/white pair), and sends power to motor, and the yellow wire comes back from motor and becomes hot when the valve is open. The voltage on the yellow line is constant 12V when the red light is flashing. So something else is controlling the flashing.

So if I want to tap into it, I should tap into the yellow wire and then choose a ground. I have tested it.

Yes, I might need to go to 1 amp fuse. I will do some measurement.

I have another question, how do you remove the handle on the existing valve? I tried today but when I rotate the handle, the shaft rotates with it. Maybe I can use locking pliers to hold the shaft, but I am worried that it may cause dent on the shaft and affect the seal between the shaft and the hole that in which the shaft moves in/out.

How did you remove the handle?

Thank you very much.

The handle IS a problem. Use a big vise-grip locked on hard and unscrew them. They’re really screwed on tightly. I used a thick rag in the jaws to protect the rod.

flyboy013 · 08-05-2020, 06:26 AM

I use a pair of pliers to hold the rod while removing the handle. I had the same concerns as you. I hold the rod as close to the handle as possible, but have not noticed any damage whatsoever. It doesn’t require much pressure to remove the handle.

As for the white and yellow wires, I complete eliminated the cheap barker rocker switch and install a toggle switch mounted onto the wet bay panel. I then connected the white wire to ground and the yellow wire to one of the Sonoff GPIO pins. This way when the valve is open, I would see the ground signal at the Sonoff and publish a MQTT message indicating as such. I use my home automation system to show me the current valve status. I have Tasmota on the Sonoff.

If you want to get fancy, you could us a couple dollar Arduino inside the coach (and/or the wet bay) that listens for the MQTT message and turn a LED on (blinking or otherwise).

C.Martin · 08-05-2020, 08:42 AM

I think I would use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP987BN..._QrSkFbE1QE29W

Tap into the red and black wires inside the Barker Switch going to the flashing LED (yes, the resistor and flasher were built-in). Or like you said...ground plus yellow wire. Which ever is closer to your wire run point.

You can run the two wires inside the coach and connector to a flashing 12v LED like I linked previously. Should be discreet yet able to show valve status.

Vise grips and turn. Tee handle is just screwed on.

deeperblue · 08-05-2020, 01:09 PM

What is the ground signal at Sonoff?

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyboy013

I use a pair of pliers to hold the rod while removing the handle. I had the same concerns as you. I hold the rod as close to the handle as possible, but have not noticed any damage whatsoever. It doesn’t require much pressure to remove the handle.

As for the white and yellow wires, I complete eliminated the cheap barker rocker switch and install a toggle switch mounted onto the wet bay panel. I then connected the white wire to ground and the yellow wire to one of the Sonoff GPIO pins. This way when the valve is open, I would see the ground signal at the Sonoff and publish a MQTT message indicating as such. I use my home automation system to show me the current valve status. I have Tasmota on the Sonoff.

If you want to get fancy, you could us a couple dollar Arduino inside the coach (and/or the wet bay) that listens for the MQTT message and turn a LED on (blinking or otherwise).