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Old 11-26-2021, 07:27 PM   #1
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2001 36' won't start need help

Hello,
I have a 36 ' 2001 Alpine Coach. The coach wasn't starting from the chassis batteries, but would start with the house battery jumper switch. This lead me to believe that my chassis batteries were probably finished as I have had them about 5 years. I pulled the chassis batteries and they wouldn't take a charge, so I purchased new batteries, reinstalled and the coach still won't start and it won't start with the jumper switch either from the house batteries. I went through and tightened all the connections I could find including all ground wires. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:00 PM   #2
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Is it spinning the motor at all? Are the new batteries showing a charge?
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:06 PM   #3
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Did you take a picture of the layout of connection cables before removing the batteries so that you can see if they are hooked up correctly?
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:13 PM   #4
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'01 battery print

This may help
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/batteries-419920.html
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:14 PM   #5
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Cuda, Hi Yesterday it would start but only when I used the battery boost switch. It would not start from the chassis batteries, so yes the motor would turn over and start. Today after buying new Chassis batteries and installing it now won't start from the chassis or the house battery booster switch.

Barbara, Yes I have the diagram in my battery compartment and I took pictures of the cable connections and everything is hooked back up as it should be.
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:22 PM   #6
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Thank you Old web. This looks correct. I will check again tomorrow.

When I turn on the key my gauges and my idiot lights come on and then when I turn the key to start I hear a clicking sound for a moment and then nothing. It was doing this before, but I was able to get it to start with the booster switch
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:32 PM   #7
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Time to get out the volt meter...... check voltage at batteries, disconnect switch, solenoid, and starter.
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Old 11-26-2021, 08:37 PM   #8
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Hi, I have to commend you for going almost seven years w/o posting in iRV2!

So let's get you going.
I will have to ask, but were the battery and connectors cleaned properly, that is scraped down to shiny lead? Over the years, the lead posts and inside the connectors it will build a barrier that won't allow current to pass very good. Any other connectors need a good brushing too.
I just saw your 'click sound' comment... that is a indication of a bad connection, one that current passes briefly then open-circuits. Do the lights and gauges die when the clicking stops? If they go out, battery connection, if the lights stay lit... problem is further down, to the starter.
Also, do you have access to a multimeter?
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Old 11-26-2021, 09:52 PM   #9
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If you coach is like mine, there are a lot of cables on the positive posts of both banks of batteries.
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Old 11-27-2021, 02:48 AM   #10
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Hi Old web, I also replaced the main positive battery connector as the old one was cracked and would not tighten properly. I will double check all the connections in the morning. I was getting 13.5 volts with my generator running at all the batteries and the chassis disconnect, and the starter. I did not check at the boost solenoid. I believe the lights stayed on after the initial click but the the key switch will not allow an additional turn until you turn it back off and try again. When I do turn the key the idiot lights turn on and I can hear the fuel pump running. I do have a multi meter.

Thank you Andy, the drawing looks just like what I have.
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Old 11-27-2021, 06:03 AM   #11
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Generator voltage poweres the inverter charger which charges the house batteries. The inverter/charger will charge you chassis batteries if you have equipment to make that happen. My coach came with an Echo Charger that routes charging current to the chassis batteries once the house batteries reach full charge.

Regarding your boost switch, you chould have 2 big cables on the boost solenoid - one to the house battery bank, one to the chassis battery bank. If those cables are in place, and the solenoid is working, but you coach still won't turn over, then I expect one of the cablles that goes on the chassis battery positive post is the root of your problem.

FWIW, when I bought my coach, the echo charger was hooked up worng. The solid red lead goes to the house batteries, the yellow and red lead goes to the chassis batteries.

If you determine that your boost solenoid isn't working, you can use your chassis batteries to start your coach by connecting a battery jumper cable from the positive of one bank to the positive of the other bank. You need a good jumper cable for this. Small cables will get warm in a hurry.

Check you battery nergative connections too.

I recently made and installed new cables in my battery compartment. The cables in my 2001 were the original ones, and they were not in good shape. When I did the project, I put in a couple of buss bars, one for the positive house power, one for the chassis house power. This let me get the spagetti wiring off the battery posts, and made it easier to insure I have good battery connections.

Here is the chassis battery positive posts before my project:



My battery compartment after project:


Here is an illustration I made fo power distribution in my coach. I'm sharing here because it shows the charging circuits.
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Old 11-27-2021, 11:09 AM   #12
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Andy, you are awesome. Thank you for this.

Yes my connections are a spagetti mess. Most of my cables are newer, but I am sure that I am having a connection problem. I will do some more trouble shooting today. I will clean all the connections up and see if that helps. I will look into installing the bus bars.
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Old 11-27-2021, 04:17 PM   #13
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Thank you all for your help Traced back to a loose connection at the main chassis battery terminal. I will convert to bus bars as Andy has done to eliminate the congestion and provide better connections. Starting every time now.
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Old 11-27-2021, 05:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgonzaga View Post
Thank you all for your help Traced back to a loose connection at the main chassis battery terminal. I will convert to bus bars as Andy has done to eliminate the congestion and provide better connections. Starting every time now.

Here is where I got and shared most of the info I needed for my battery project:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/the...ml#post5625521
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