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Old 05-18-2021, 06:23 AM   #15
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I just use a 5' thick wall iron pipe that fits over the end of my 3/4" drive breaker bar. That way applying just 100 pounds at the end generates 500 ft-lbs at the other end.


Welded in an old 1/2" drive socket a few inches in from the other end of the pipe so my 1/2" torque wrench could be used. Gives your 1/2" standard torque wrench the ability to accurately torque in the 450-500 ft-lb range.


Using my "crude" pipe extension, a torque wrench setting of 118 lb-ft gets you 500 ft-lbs.



Just do a search for "torque wrench extension". Formulas are on most of the links. The site I used 20 years ago for this is no longer available or I would post the link.
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Old 05-18-2021, 10:52 AM   #16
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Yes an excellent point. Would like to get TPS on mine. Bought a great portable scale to finally get weights on all 4 corners, will weigh to 20k lbs. Will use for correct psi from tire manufacturer
Mark

Hey Mark,

Curious about your scale. Not in the market but always curious about things like this. I guess I never realized they were available and really all that portable.

Terry
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Old 06-06-2021, 08:57 PM   #17
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Hey Mark,

Curious about your scale. Not in the market but always curious about things like this. I guess I never realized they were available and really all that portable.

Terry
Just saw this today. I found this in a Craigslist ad. Its a demo unit from Prime USA scales. Its a portable scale 16" x 20" with built in ramps, the capacity is 20k lbs and weighs in 20 lb increments. Will only operate on AC power. The demo was $400 and worked great weighing my rv corners. Very pleased with the product and service.
Got it from Fred Herrmann Vice President of sales. Phone #800-917-7205.
4005 W Reno Ave Ste E, Las Vegas, Nv 89118
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Old 06-06-2021, 09:30 PM   #18
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Regarding my Alpine right rear wheel locking up-skidding. Finally got new tools to do inspection, 3/4" drive impact gun, impact extensions, 33mm deep impact socket and tire with wheel dolly.
Question? Do you guys use leveling jack after dumping air bags to get bottle jack under rear end support? Using my 10 ton floor jack(1943 Hein Werner) is very long and heavy to jack up rear end support was very difficult.
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Old 06-07-2021, 10:21 AM   #19
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I have some 2x12 ramps I made. They are 2 boards thick. I drive up on these and then use my leveling jacks to take some of the weight off the wheels (I have built up pads for the jacks too. The 2" thick pads raise the coach up enough so that I wouldn't be crushed if the jacks or air bags gave up. I call it room to live. I also use jack stands if I'm going to be working on a wheel.

You dump the air out of the airbags and use a jack to lift one wheel at a time.

My wheels were put on at a shop that does a lot of truck work. The lug nuts were very tight. It took much more than 450#s of torque to break the lugs loose. The 3/4 gun should work if you have a good air compressor and a big air hose.. Good luck!
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Old 06-07-2021, 11:29 AM   #20
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Regarding my Alpine right rear wheel locking up-skidding. Finally got new tools to do inspection, 3/4" drive impact gun, impact extensions, 33mm deep impact socket and tire with wheel dolly.
Question? Do you guys use leveling jack after dumping air bags to get bottle jack under rear end support? Using my 10 ton floor jack(1943 Hein Werner) is very long and heavy to jack up rear end support was very difficult.
Mark
I put 4"x12" pads under the rear Jack feet, dump the air, fully deploy the rear jacks simultaneously, slide a pair of 10 ton (ea) Jack stands underneath and use my small 6ton floor Jack to lift the rear diff just high enough to get the duals about 1/2" off the ground. If you don't have a tire dolly a flat blade shovel works well to "lift and slide" each wheel/tire on and off. Use Wolfe's method to torque the wheels. I use a 4' cheater bar on a 3/4" breaker bar and lean about 110lb into it.
It's sort of a "feel" thing. They also make "torque sticks" for 3/4" and 1" drive impact guns. We used these in the shop and they are surprisingly accurate.
Re check the wheel torque after 50 miles or so.
Take your time and be safe. It's not really that difficult once you "dive in".
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Old 06-11-2021, 07:34 PM   #21
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Ok I got the right tools finally, jacked and supported the right rear and took off the tires. Read my original paper work so I have Bosch 2 piston pin slide disc brakes with ZOPS Pin and Bolt(Prior to June 3, 2002. Everything is XLNT! Rotor thickness about 1.44", Inner pad .714", outer pad .70". No wetness around calipers, no darkness from fluid, no disc discoloration.
So now what item or area and how do I examine next? Neighbors including a airport fleet manager suggests that I remove the Left wheel to see if its Under performing cause the right side to lockup.
Also do I need to try the brakes out while raised in the air while running. I read in my paperwork you should Not start while jacked up especially leveling jacks, torque of engine vibration?
I am quite mechanically inclined but I've never worked on a beast like this.
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Old 06-11-2021, 07:51 PM   #22
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Personally I'd replace both rear calipers with reman units and new pads.
The reman calipers are cheap and come with all new slider hardware.
Thoroughly flush and bleed the system with fresh dot4 fluid.
If just one piston is sticking it can cause all sorts of problems, and these phenolic pistons are notorious for sticking. The rotors are likely fine, but a quick runout check with a dial indicator never hurt anything.
Do not attempt to run this on the jacks, bad idea.
Good luck.
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Old 06-12-2021, 06:30 AM   #23
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You can buy calipers with all steel pistons.
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Old 06-12-2021, 11:30 AM   #24
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Personally I'd replace both rear calipers with reman units and new pads.
The reman calipers are cheap and come with all new slider hardware.
Thoroughly flush and bleed the system with fresh dot4 fluid.
If just one piston is sticking it can cause all sorts of problems, and these phenolic pistons are notorious for sticking. The rotors are likely fine, but a quick runout check with a dial indicator never hurt anything.
Do not attempt to run this on the jacks, bad idea.
Good luck.
Do you have the reman calipers part # and vendor information? I wouldn't know where to start. I know auto parts not these.
My brakes look great and system was flushed last year, But you brought up a great point about the history of these pistons sticking which I was unaware.
Thanks for confirming no running while on jacks.
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Old 06-12-2021, 01:00 PM   #25
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Lots of part numbers in this thread:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/brake-parts-2001-38-8-alpine-coach-395383.html?highlight=Brakes

There are variation in the brake parts used by Western RV. The best thing to do is get the numbers of your calipers and disc and take the to NAPA. The NAPA guy can get what you need. The brakes are common parts from medium duty trucks and school buses of similar vintage.
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Old 06-12-2021, 11:35 PM   #26
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I dealt with Commercial Brake and Clutch Supply, close to me in Tacoma Wa. My suggestion is to search for a heavy duty truck brake and clutch jobber locally.
NAPA may work, however, your generic auto parts store is only as good as your parts counter person. NAPA may give you that deer in the headlight dude asking if your motor home is an LS or a LT model, if you know what I mean...
The jobbers that deal in heavy truck brake parts will take care of you and get things right the first time.
You'll likely need to special order calipers rebuilt/equipped with steel Pistons if you choose to upgrade from the oem phenolic Pistons. I tried, but they were weeks out so I just went with the standard phenolics for the rears recently, but was able to get steel Pistons for the fronts last year. Go figure.
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Old 06-12-2021, 11:50 PM   #27
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Thanks Andy and Alpine. Good Napa place by me and at least one Cummins guy that could have taken my money but gave me advice instead for free.
Update: As of Sat June 12 I also took off wheels and inspected the left rear brakes. Both pistons on each side protrude same distance in the calipers, pad thickness same for each rotor and both rear wheels. Just passing along what I find.
Thanks for all contributions and advice!
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Old 06-13-2021, 12:04 AM   #28
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Thanks Andy and Alpine. Good Napa place by me and at least one Cummins guy that could have taken my money but gave me advice instead for free.
Update: As of Sat June 12 I also took off wheels and inspected the left rear brakes. Both pistons on each side protrude same distance in the calipers, pad thickness same for each rotor and both rear wheels. Just passing along what I find.
Thanks for all contributions and advice!
Well, since your there may as well replace the calipers with rebuilds, new slide hardware (included with calipers) and new pads. Cheap insurance. The rebuilt calipers only run about $100ea. Good luck, but easy enough project.
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