Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE OWNER'S CORNER FORUMS > Alpine Coach Owner's Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-13-2021, 06:47 AM   #29
Senior Member
 
andy29847's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 883
I hate throwing parts at things. If you are not in a hurry, be methodical. The brake thread I posted had this link about sticking brakes in it:

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/abs...ng-277877.html


I took my coach to a shop for the brake work since I had a warranty plan. It is a small town shop and the tech is a friend, so he let me watch. The tech hooked up to the ABS diagnostic port and could see that one of the solenoids that control fluid flow (in ABS Modulator) was not working. It is a common problem with this modulator. I was able to buy an exact replacement but it took a couple of weeks because they had to make it. it is expensive. My symptoms were different than your. I had one wheel that wasn't braking at all. Also, I couldn't bleed the caliper for that side.

Good luck.
__________________
2001 Alpine Coach 38/8
ACA 2018006
Andy
andy29847 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 06-13-2021, 11:27 AM   #30
Senior Member
 
Mitimet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 126
One thing that happened when wheel locked up is the emergency flashers won't flash now, just steady on. Yes I have time constraints, vacation in 2 weeks. Retired so I have time in that respect. This isn't sounding good. Dang.
Mitimet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2021, 10:19 AM   #31
Senior Member


 
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Hoodsport Wa
Posts: 1,714
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitimet View Post
One thing that happened when wheel locked up is the emergency flashers won't flash now, just steady on. Yes I have time constraints, vacation in 2 weeks. Retired so I have time in that respect. This isn't sounding good. Dang.
Couple of thoughts...
Does the dash ABS light illuminate with the key in the run position? It should, then go out once it does a system check.

Is the brake pedal fully releasing?
Do the brake lights function?
Does the emergency boost pump run when you depress the brake pedal with the engine off?
The fact the e flashers don't blink could indicate an electrical issue, such as a faulty "tail light combiner" module at your trailer wire harness.
Food for thought. Good luck.
__________________
2000 Alpine 36 FDS #74058
04 Jeep Wrangler TJ
"On the road to find out..."
Alpine36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2021, 06:34 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Mitimet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine36 View Post
Couple of thoughts...
Does the dash ABS light illuminate with the key in the run position? It should, then go out once it does a system check.

Is the brake pedal fully releasing?
Do the brake lights function?
Does the emergency boost pump run when you depress the brake pedal with the engine off?
The fact the e flashers don't blink could indicate an electrical issue, such as a faulty "tail light combiner" module at your trailer wire harness.
Food for thought. Good luck.
1.Yes ABS comes on with key on then goes off along with various other dash lights.
2.Yes the pedal comes back up, without engine running.
3.Wife has to help see if brakes lights work....
4.Yes I could hear something running when pressing on brake, engine not running.
Flashers not flashing; One of my mechanics said that can also indicate there is still pressure somewhere in the system, just like flashers stop flashing when you press on the brake pedal. Note didn't have that happen until brake locked up.
Thanks for ideas.
Mitimet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2021, 06:43 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Mitimet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 126
Bought 2 rear rebuilt- reman rear calipers today from local truck supplier.
What Loctite # do I use for caliper bolts, original paperwork says #2440 but can't find any, probably an old #.
Also what lube is used for slide pins, boots. Original paperwork says not to use just any grease as can swell rubber boots. Local guy said silicone?
May be able to get diagnosis of ABS next week as someone suggested.
Thanks everyone.
Mitimet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2021, 10:21 PM   #34
Senior Member


 
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Hoodsport Wa
Posts: 1,714
Personally I don't use loctite on the caliper retaining bolts, really no need to. Just a very thin coating of anti seize. Torque to appx 30ft lbs.
I use liberal amounts of FOMOCO silicone brake grease on the slider pins and boots, but that brand choice is only because I have several tubes leftover from my mechanic days. Any silicone brake hardware grease will work. I also put a light coat of anti seize on the brake pad sliders. New metal sliders should be supplied with the calipers or pads. Make sure the bleeders are installed "up". Bleed at least a pint or more from each caliper to insure a good flush. I find it easier to just unbolt the brake fluid reservoir from its bracket to add fluid.
BTW, you're brake lights are separate from the turn/4way flashers, so a stuck brake pedal or bad switch shouldnt cause the 4way flashers to not blink. A faulty trailer light combo module could though. It should be located somewhere just upstream from the trailer light plug. A small black box....
__________________
2000 Alpine 36 FDS #74058
04 Jeep Wrangler TJ
"On the road to find out..."
Alpine36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2021, 12:45 PM   #35
Senior Member
 
Mitimet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 126
Thanks a bunch for the fast reply. Interesting is even the new caliper retaining bolts have a strip of blue Loctite, they just didn't do a even job. FYI my original paoerwork says about 80ft lbs of torque.
Mark
Mitimet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2021, 06:27 PM   #36
Senior Member
 
Mitimet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 126
Ok I was hoping to have a end of story right now but instead I have events and a question. I finished putting rebuilt rear calipers on my Alpine, hardware lubed, bled and torqued correctly. Had a mobile diesel mech come out who tested Meritor system with his computer, all 4 wheels checked out fine when activated. 2 codes were stored, low voltage; can't elaborate at this time.
Took out another day for a test drive and right rear wheel locked up again many times at different speeds. July 1st mobile diesel tech Alex came with me for a drive with his computer hooked up. The brakes performed Flawlessly!!! Did at least 4 55mph panic stops perfectly; did many more hard stops, smelled the brakes.. His computer showed both rear wheels at nearly the same MPH and RPM, just what we want. No new codes from my previous failed test came up. Today July 2nd I took it out again and the damn right rear wheel is locking up again! Brakes and Meritor system performed flawlessly yesterday. Any ideas? Will be getting back with Alex next week.
Thanks Mark
Mitimet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2021, 10:31 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Mitimet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 126
Ok I have a final conclusion to wheel lockup/skidding. After a 3rd test drive with Alex the diesel mech. He saw no stored codes for the Meritor system on his computer, he is using Meritor software. He and I drove, we both looked at the computer and saw no RPM or MPH significant change on any of the 4 wheels. Note; There Never have been any dash warning lights regarding ABS or anything else. We took back to his shop where he inspected both front rotors and pads on both sides. Only found a Master Cylinder pressure switch was broke and tie wrapped, a long time ago? His conclusion your brakes are fine, they are not skidding. Note- The only time I didn't hear this sound was the first test drive with Alex when the brakes worked flawlessly through my brake torture test.
Ok could my ears be playing tricks on me, I'm hearing what sounds just like a tire skidding. Well I decided to learn how to use my Gopro camera, take for a test drive with the camera mounted for 3 or 4 good braking sessions at each individual wheel. Conclusion...No skidding, so skidding noise at any wheel!!! To end this I talk to my neighbor who is the fleet manager at Los Angeles International Airport. He too say You're brakes are fine and safe. Now you take your time and look over your rv to find where your mystery noise is coming from.
One last question, does anyone have any idea what could cause a noise like this? Thanks too all of you for your help and suggestions. One piece of advice I tried but quickly quit was long pipe extensions for a basic wheel torquing. The socket extension I had, brought the pipe too close to the body and I didn't feel confident in my leaning on this and getting the right torque. I do understand the basic theory but actually doing it just didn't give me that confidence I normally feel. I had Alex tighten them, then I bought a used CDI 600 ft/lb torque wrench for future use.
The end(except for noises in my head)
Mitimet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2021, 09:10 AM   #38
Senior Member


 
Alpine Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Hoodsport Wa
Posts: 1,714
Try stopping with the engine brake turned off.
I have noticed a slight bit of what can only be described as a screeching noise on decel braking at lower speeds from the exhaust brake. Noticeable with the drivers window open in town mainly. Sounds almost like a bad bearing noise or a dust shield rubbing on a rotor...tinny sounding. It only happens with the exhaust brake turned on. And yes, I have inspected for exhaust leaks and or loose exhaust shielding. All fine and the exhaust brake works great. I've determined it's normal....
__________________
2000 Alpine 36 FDS #74058
04 Jeep Wrangler TJ
"On the road to find out..."
Alpine36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2021, 09:53 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Ljwt330's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,121
I read and reread this entire thread with interest, but one question still hangs, dangling in the wind.



The OP states in the original post that he not only heard the skid, but a "sliding feeling" from the right rear side. I am wondering if that still is present, or if the OP may have reevaluated that "feel," and concluded that there was no sliding?
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
Ljwt330 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2021, 10:58 AM   #40
Senior Member
 
Mitimet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 126
I will say now that I have gone on many drives with lots of stops that the "feeling" too was a an illusion. It really took my Gopro videos of each wheel Not skidding to accept what I was hearing was not actually happening. I never actually had any sliding or to the side motion, I guess just powerful hearing suggestion.
As far as my emergency flashers not working, mechanic replaced my flasher so its good now.
Mitimet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2021, 11:07 AM   #41
Senior Member
 
Mitimet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Lancaster, Ca
Posts: 126
Alex the mechanic had me do the tests with the engine brake off. Engine brake does sound like disc brakes pad wear sensors scraping hard. Thanks
Mitimet is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
rear



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Jeep Wrangler front wheel lockup pameridan04 Toads and Motorhome Related Towing 7 10-13-2020 09:40 PM
Added Skid Plate to rear corner of Class A gpounder Class A Motorhome Discussions 1 06-13-2019 08:39 AM
Stuck: Hung up on rear skid bars. How to free? TinMan Trvlr Class A Motorhome Discussions 14 10-21-2017 10:09 AM
Skid Wheel Problem and My Solution Mike Casella MH-General Discussions & Problems 5 11-22-2007 03:43 AM
Skid Plate for WW Rear Bumper Mod 56Nomad Toy Haulers Discussion 11 09-02-2006 08:36 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.