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Old 05-12-2021, 08:40 PM   #1
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Alpine rear wheel lockup/skid

Took my 2000 Alpine Limited 36FDS for a test drive today before a trip. Using PAC engine brake as usual, started slowing down then braking at about 30 mph while coming to a stop sign. Noticed a sliding feeling along with a little squeeking noise. Pavement is dry. After feeling the same thing several times I tried some hard braking from about 50 mph. Definitely felt and heard difference especially as pavement changed from smooth to rough.
New tires last year at 64860. Now at 66291. Along with tires last year brake system flushed and Prestone DOT 4 added, caliper slide pins lubed as per recommendations. Vehicle exercised every 2 to 3 months. Meritor Wabco anti lock with Bosch disk brakes, pads were at 90%. Coach has been in dry California climate, brake system looks great. Last test drive was 3-19-21.
Any idea of right rear wheel lockup/skid cause? No were not going on trip now.
Thanks, Mark
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Old 05-13-2021, 01:56 AM   #2
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Did you check tire pressure ?
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Old 05-13-2021, 06:47 AM   #3
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Ok--have never come even close to "skidding" an Alpine tire on dry pavement. Kind of thought Alpines had gone to 4-piston calipers by 2000--ie, no slide pins??? If not used frequently, pads and disks can get "sticky" and chatter/squeal until disks smooth out. If issue persists, need to remove wheels and inspect brakes in question.
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Old 05-13-2021, 07:38 AM   #4
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Ya, I would be quite SHOCKED if you could lock all 4 rear wheels on dry pavement. And, if that did happen, immediately stop and check brake temps.
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Old 05-13-2021, 11:41 AM   #5
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WRV did not go to the 4 Piston calibers until the the 2001 model year. There a couple of 2001 Alpines that used the 2 piston calibers that were leftover axles from the 2000 models.

As for the wheel lock up it could be caused by the pin sliders, a caliber piston sticking or possibly a axle seal leak that contaminated the brake pads. Just throwing out possible causes.
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Old 05-13-2021, 11:45 PM   #6
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Thanks to the above 4 responses. Will check tire psi again, last done 3-19-21. I drive her every 2 to 3 months to avoid problems, 1st time in 3 years any brake issue. Luckily it's just the right rear locking, lucky I could hear it with windows closed. I learned a lot from this forum and have followed all I've read in the past so all your advice is much appreciated.
Mark
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Old 05-14-2021, 05:26 AM   #7
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"One more thing:" doubt if the ABS system would be the cause but it should have prevented the skid--that is, unless there is a major caliper issue on that wheel...guess its time to remove the wheels for a thorough inspection.....keep us posted.
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Old 05-14-2021, 06:42 AM   #8
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. Luckily it's just the right rear locking...
Mark

Mark,


That is an important piece of information. Absolutely if ONE wheel position locks up, remove the wheels and do a complete inspection of that side.


Remember, if you replace components on one side, be sure to replace the brake pads on the other side so you have the same coefficient of friction and pad thickness on both sides of an axle.
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Old 05-15-2021, 11:01 AM   #9
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Sure am glad to hear it's probably not the anti lock. It will be a few weeks before I can get to this, medical stuff, but I will update. Thanks for the new responses, much appreciated.
Mark
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Old 05-15-2021, 11:59 AM   #10
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Watching this with interest. Please sharer what you find when you get fixed.

My coach is a 2001 - one of those with 2 piston calipers. I've had it for 3+ years. It had sat up a lot (only 17,000 miles) prior to becoming my hobby. The result of the lack of use has been brake trouble. I never had a wheel skid, but I had some sticky calipers that generated a lot of heat and caused problems. I've ended up replacing the discs, the calipers, a couple of ABS sensors, and the ABS modulator. The modulator went bad internally and would not allow me to bleed the driver's rear caliper. All of these problems are the result of brake fluid absorbing water and the water corroding the internals of the brake system. The hydraulic brake system used on Alpine Coaches is the same one found on many school busses and medium duty trucks. it is a strong and reliable system when used regularly. When used occasionally, like most RVs, moisture in the brake fluid affects reliability. The wisdom of the list here has been to change the brake fluid every 2 years. Good luck!
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Old 05-16-2021, 08:53 PM   #11
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Thanks to the above 4 responses. Will check tire psi again, last done 3-19-21. I drive her every 2 to 3 months to avoid problems, 1st time in 3 years any brake issue. Luckily it's just the right rear locking, lucky I could hear it with windows closed. I learned a lot from this forum and have followed all I've read in the past so all your advice is much appreciated.
Mark


Mark, I doubt your problem is air pressure, but if you don’t have TPMS ( I at this time do not, and never had it on our Alpine) you need to check air pressure every time before you drive it. Please.
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:28 PM   #12
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Yes an excellent point. Would like to get TPS on mine. Bought a great portable scale to finally get weights on all 4 corners, will weigh to 20k lbs. Will use for correct psi from tire manufacturer
Mark
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:39 PM   #13
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I've been excersising the Alpine every 2 to 3 months as per forum recommendations. I also do the hard braking at times based on info from forum.
Guy with 2001 brake issues, I will update and appreciate your input and story.
Do you guys use a Torque multiplier to remove lugs or pneumatic gun or electric impact? Whats the lug torque? Where's a good place to get information on specifications such as various torque settings?
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Old 05-17-2021, 06:31 PM   #14
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I've been excersising the Alpine every 2 to 3 months as per forum recommendations. I also do the hard braking at times based on info from forum.
Guy with 2001 brake issues, I will update and appreciate your input and story.
Do you guys use a Torque multiplier to remove lugs or pneumatic gun or electric impact? Whats the lug torque? Where's a good place to get information on specifications such as various torque settings?

I have a torque multiplier. The torque is supposed to be 450 ft lbs. This means you need a good air compressor, a big air hose, and a 1" impact wrench. I paid to have my wheel work done, so I haven't actually removed a wheel. I have experimented with the torqued multiplier and removed a couple of lug nuts. I am convinced they were much tighter than 450 ft lbs.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/lug...rk-442688.html
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