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Old 05-17-2022, 02:22 PM   #1
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Battery Tender's .........

I'm STILL in the process of switching / moving everything out of our 2000 DutchStar an into our 2005 Alpine, looking around the battery bay an I see these two battery tenders, both of which have a small plug type connector, as you can see, BOTH are just hanging there an I don't see anything obvious that these 2 would plug into ?.............can anyone tell me where to start ?.....I put brand new, Napa chassis batteries in 2 weeks ago, been parked ever since an this morning the batteries are dead again,......
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:33 PM   #2
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Assuming those two connectors are for input power of sorts - I would guess, depending on the input voltage ratings - these connectors are for either a 120vac power cord, or a 12VDC solar panel.

Looks like a little research on the make/model tender is in order. ��
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:34 PM   #3
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Quite likely, a previous owner just used an extension cord to run them when in storage.


If you wanted to, shouldn't be too hard to install a waterproof 120 VAC outlet in that compartment.
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:40 PM   #4
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https://www.batteryminders.com/12v-onboard-desulfator

https://www.batteryminders.com/conte...20H0414019.pdf


Product Description
A charger is required to charge or maintain your batteries. You can find recommended chargers in the related products below.

Don't just charge your batteries... Condition them, with or without electric power!

The BatteryMINDer OnBoard Desulfators are designed to desulfate your batteries while you are operating your vehicle. The units utilize patented technology to product a wide range of high frequency pulses known as RFP(tm) (Random Frequency Pulsation) designed to dissolve both old and newly formed sulfate. RFP(tm) technology, sweeps the entire frequency range known to cause sulfation crystals to resonate and then safely dissolve them. Sulfuric acid, the main component in the sulfate crystals, safely returns to the battery's electrolyte. The Specific Gravity (S.G.) of the electrolyte is not higher and able to generate more electrical energy-storage capacity than the previously sulfated batteries.

Additional advantages of using sulfation-free batteries include extended alternator and belt life, as the vehicle's charging system no longer needs to work as hard trying to charge batteries that will not accept high alternator output current due to sulfation build-up. Better fuel economy can also be expected, as much lower output current is now demanded from the alternator to keep clean, sulfate-free batteries fully charged. Lower alternator output current translates to lower engine level.

The BatteryMINDer On-Board RFP(tm) Desulfators - Conditioners can serve up to six batteries at a time. Thus, even large commercial vehicles, boats, commercial equipment require only one unit per system.

Units are effective on all brands / types of batteries, including Maintenance-free, Gel, AGM, Deep Cycle, Sealed, and Free-electrolyte.

Installation is a simple two wire hook-up. The units stop working shortly after you turn your engine off. They do not use any power while your vehicle is turned off and very little when the vehicle is running.
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:42 PM   #5
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This forum is your friend--there is a wealth of info at your finger-tips, by using the search function. Knowing where to start, depends on where you are going? Assume your bats are dying because you are not plugged into 120v shore power. Those trickle chargers are after market--used by previous owner to keep the chassis and house battery banks charged. So you have to plug in these chargers to a 120v source. Even with both bat kill switch off--there are a number of draws on the bats. Chassis bat will last a few weeks; the house bats a bit less due to the direct connect to the inverter [fans], unless you keep the OEM inverter/charger plugged in to 120v. Your 2005 requires the vansco system be on so the inverter/charger will charge your chassis bats, once the house bats are charged. Chassis bats will last a bit longer if you disconnect at bat posts. After-market solar panels are an option, if storing in direct sun light.
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Old 05-17-2022, 03:19 PM   #6
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NOTE... per rgvtexan post above you have links to the product info & manual.

I have used BatteryMinder maintainers and they are good products.
These DO NOT appear to be conventional 120V input 12V output units.
Brief scan through those links indicate these are not chargers/ maintainers but rather desulphaters that work in conjunction with the vehicle alternator when it is running or a separate 120V charger / maintainer to provide a desulphation mode.

Different animal than I am familiar with.
BatteryMinder has been very good with technical assistance when I called B with questions.
I would read the oper manuals thoroughly and ask the mfg if any questions remain. I would hesitate to put much faith in other replies as these are very different than what most of us. (Myself included) are familiar with.
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Old 05-17-2022, 08:58 PM   #7
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Remove those things, they’re unnecessary.

If you’re storing the coach without power, and you don’t disconnect the chassis batteries, the VMM’s will drain them in two weeks, no questions asked. Even with the disconnect switch open, you’ll want to check their condition after a month. Same with house batteries. Turn the inverter off and open the disconnect switch.

Best bet is to find a way to maintain a charge on the batteries while in storage.
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Old 05-18-2022, 09:41 AM   #8
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Remove those things, they’re unnecessary.

If you’re storing the coach without power, and you don’t disconnect the chassis batteries, the VMM’s will drain them in two weeks, no questions asked. Even with the disconnect switch open, you’ll want to check their condition after a month. Same with house batteries. Turn the inverter off and open the disconnect switch.

Best bet is to find a way to maintain a charge on the batteries while in storage.

No question, disconnecting the batteries is ONE approach.


But, never one we used when we had access to shore power. A properly programmed smart charger/maintainer is the way we do it. Never an issue on total of three diesel pushers over a 22 year history.
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Old 05-18-2022, 10:12 AM   #9
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No question, disconnecting the batteries is ONE approach.


But, never one we used when we had access to shore power. A properly programmed smart charger/maintainer is the way we do it. Never an issue on total of three diesel pushers over a 22 year history.
Sure, shore power makes it easy. In this case, the OP has reported dead chassis batteries “again”, this time just 2 weeks after installing new batteries. That smells like a coach being stored without shore power, or a charging system that is not functioning properly.

If shore power isn’t available, it isn’t a viable solution. We need to offer potential solutions that are appropriate for the situation. What worked for you for 22 years may not be an option for the OP.
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Old 05-18-2022, 10:30 AM   #10
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Ref post #5, it is kind of hard to decern whether OP has a charging issue while off the grid or while connected to shore power? Agree, this could be a Vansco-related charging solenoid issue. ...was hoping they would clarify this once we got beyond the purpose of the mystery "battery tenders" in his bat compartment.
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Old 05-18-2022, 06:22 PM   #11
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The INPUT power cables exit those chargers to the right, likely for a 120v source, perhaps as suggested, to a typical 120v extension cord.

The 'mystery' plugs are used for different charger OUTPUTS; ex: an alligator clip cord or hard wiring to batteries with electrical eyelets, that bolt to the battery terminals; this for cases like shown: mounting the charger units in/on the vehicle.

Of this, there is zero question in my mind, based upon decades of ownership and use of many brands of chargers, including "Tenders".

The sole reason to use "reconditioners' is for dead or near dead batteries that will not accept a normal charge, most likely due to sulfating of the internal plates. Such chargers output a pulsing wave (variable) power (like a sawtooth) which sometimes will restore some useful life of otherwise junk batteries. My success with same has been iffy.

A shop-owner pal suggested a last resort method: drop the battery on a hard surface from about 4-6"; the shock force physically forces the sulfation to fall off those internal plates. I've actually found this can work, but with low expectations for many more service months. I surmise that a previous owner of that coach had repeat severe discharges of the batteries. A properly connected and used 'regular' trickle charger could've prevented that scenario.

Unknown is whether the chargers shown have a 'normal' trickle maintainer mode. My recent shopping experience for chargers indicates most are of similar design, with the costlier units adding a 'RECON' mode. Others offer a dedicated 'maintainer' mode, some offer both, but an intelligent purchaser is aware of the specific charge rate needed for maintaining a battery (while not cooking it) versus just assuming the priciest one is best.

Our '05 sits in the So. Kalifornistan sun; the stock 100W solar panel keeps both battery banks charged, via an intelligent charge controller (Blue Sea, I believe), despite multi-month sits and winter months. The system works independent of master on/off switch positions, i.e., shut 'em off - batteries still charge.
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Old 05-18-2022, 07:26 PM   #12
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The INPUT power cables exit those chargers to the right, likely for a 120v source, perhaps as suggested, to a typical 120v extension cord.
Read the manual ( linked above) and you will find the above is wrong!

Neg / black batty lead on right Pos/red on the left.
Center is an optional 12V charger input.
These ARE NOT conventional maintainers
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Old 05-18-2022, 08:47 PM   #13
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Ref post #5, it is kind of hard to decern whether OP has a charging issue while off the grid or while connected to shore power? Agree, this could be a Vansco-related charging solenoid issue. ...was hoping they would clarify this once we got beyond the purpose of the mystery "battery tenders" in his bat compartment.
A few more clues could help us solve the mystery.

The OP bought the coach about a month ago and had dead chassis batteries after parking the coach for 2 weeks. Installed new batteries, both house and chassis, 2 weeks later, dead chassis batteries.

There are a number of possibilities, several things to check and a few potential solutions. At the moment we don’t have enough information to offer much help. Personally, the VMM is the last place I’d look to solve this issue. There are too many questions we need answered and too many simple things to check first.

If the coach is sitting unplugged, an Amp-L-Start would keep the chassis batteries charged for a longer period of time. A portable 100 watt solar panel could solve the problem as well. The OP admittedly doesn’t know how to operate a volt meter, so this will be a challenge to solve over the Internet.
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Old 05-18-2022, 09:06 PM   #14
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Considering the OP hasn’t been back - I’m out of here.
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