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Old 09-21-2020, 11:07 AM   #15
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I have attached the WRV wiring diagram from my 2001 Alpine. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-21-2020, 06:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I have attached the WRV wiring diagram from my 2001 Alpine. Hope this helps.

Thanks Dave, i actually have that inside my battery compartment but my batteries are spun around and it's thrown off the wiring configuration. One of the things i'd like to do is put it all back the way it's shown on this chart. Just afraid of screwing it up.... as is now, i don't have a problem.
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:36 PM   #17
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pulled the coach batts out tonite ad about 8 lbs of collected dirt and rust.


What's a good product to coat this tray with ? POR15 ?
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Old 09-22-2020, 09:52 AM   #18
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I pulled my batteries out and added 2 more 6 votes for a total of 6. I also cleaned the tray and covered it with the roll on and raddle can bed liner.
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Old 09-22-2020, 09:57 AM   #19
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I used Por 15 on my slide tray and compartment (first use) and was impressed with the stuff. Others have highly recommended it and I'm now a believer. It seems like a very durable coating that is reported to stand up well even in acid environment.
I didn't bother with the primer just sander & wire brush.
I had some Red Rescue tape I used to color code all of the Pos cable ends.
Don't forget to coat finished product w batty terminal coating or grease / vaseline.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f103/battery-slide-refurb-484735.html
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Old 09-22-2020, 09:19 PM   #20
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I pulled my batteries out and added 2 more 6 votes for a total of 6. I also cleaned the tray and covered it with the roll on and raddle can bed liner.

How's the bedliner holding up ?
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Old 09-23-2020, 11:31 AM   #21
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The Bed Liner has been in for 4 years and still looks good only more time will tell how long it will last.
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Old 09-23-2020, 02:32 PM   #22
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Dave I did the same thing last month. I sanded and power wire brushed the battery compartment then brushed on Rustolium High Performance Rusty Metal Primer, let it dry for 24 hours, then sprayed on 2 rattle cans worth of bed liner both on the top and underneath. Then I replaced the batteries, now all I need to do is replace the cables, that’s a job for once we get home. I hope I get as good a result as you have.Click image for larger version

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Old 09-23-2020, 11:18 PM   #23
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Thanks for the reply's guys. I've been told an alternative to POR-15 is a product sold at NAPA, called Chassis Saver. If i can find some locally, i'll give it a try and report back.
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Old 09-24-2020, 06:30 AM   #24
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With proper surface prep--suspect any good truck bed spray will do fine--they worked for me....save your money for new bats, tie-downs, and cables--lets not over think this.....[smile]
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Old 09-25-2020, 06:48 AM   #25
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The easiest thing is to just move the batteries inside (underneath the bed) and use that bay for a mini-split condenser, that way no need to paint.............but I digress
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Old 10-04-2020, 05:06 PM   #26
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I pulled my batteries out and added 2 more 6 votes for a total of 6. I also cleaned the tray and covered it with the roll on and raddle can bed liner.



Dave, (or anyone) maybe you can help me here..... Of all the pictures i took before tearing the batteries and cables out, I failed to get one that shows where the other end of the cable that mounts here goes.





Almost all back together,...except for this little wire.
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Old 10-04-2020, 05:28 PM   #27
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That like like the inverter fuse.

Looked again, its labled House Fuse.
If the red cable goes to the battery, you need to find the house power wire. That would go to the house battery disconnect solenoid.
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Old 10-04-2020, 09:14 PM   #28
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Quote:
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That like like the inverter fuse.

Looked again, its labled House Fuse.
If the red cable goes to the battery, you need to find the house power wire. That would go to the house battery disconnect solenoid.



The big red wire coming from the House Fuse, disappears behind the battery tray and runs toward the front. I need to get power to the other side of the fuse, but don't know which is the final hot of the 6v's
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