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Old 10-05-2020, 01:28 AM   #29
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The final hot will be the same terminal that one of the wires I marked lands.

I marked the cables to the boost solenoid. One goes to the house battery positive and the other goes to the chassis battery.
From your picture, I don't know which is which but the one on the 6 volt battery is the one.

If that don't make sense, send more pictures.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-05-2020, 09:24 AM   #30
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Thank you for t he reply. That confirms what I was thinking after studying the printed diagram last night. I came up with either + at the ends of the series’s 6volts. (If that makes sense)
Anyway, I’ll get that connected and confirm operation.
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Old 10-05-2020, 07:34 PM   #31
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Well, what i was afraid of...... If i took it all apart i'd muck it up and have a problem afterwards.


The batteries were arranged differently prior, and of course didn't match the wiring diagram posted right inside the battery compartment.

* I wanted them to be correct, so started over fresh after cleaning and painting the tray.



Anyway, When i check the battery status inside on the control/monitor, it says my battery state is FAIR. Measuring voltage on my 6v's, i get 12.2. I know this isn't as high as i could be, but IMO higher than fair.
I also no longer have power getting to my generator. It will not crank. I do have power to the inverter and the 12 lighting works inside the coach.


Anyone care to study my pics and see what i've left off, or hooked up wrong ?
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:56 AM   #32
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I know it's trendy right now to cut and crimp yer own battery cables, but for the rest of us, I want to recommend Batterycablesusa.com

They provide exact sizing, to the 1/2". Your choice of crimp end, your choice of color---all perfectly and consistently crimped and heat shrinked (shrunked, shrank?)

Their goal is also to ship the same day if possible.

Here is an example:
0000 gauge, black, 6" hole to hole, 3/8 M10 connectors both ends $10.75.
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Old 10-06-2020, 10:12 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianna View Post
I know it's trendy right now to cut and crimp yer own battery cables, but for the rest of us, I want to recommend Batterycablesusa.com

They provide exact sizing, to the 1/2". Your choice of crimp end, your choice of color---all perfectly and consistently crimped and heat shrinked (shrunked, shrank?)

Their goal is also to ship the same day if possible.

Here is an example:
0000 gauge, black, 6" hole to hole, 3/8 M10 connectors both ends $10.75.
Trendy???....I would say more like "Convenient" and right now, vs waiting for cables to arrive but I have to agree that those are good prices
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Old 10-06-2020, 10:39 AM   #34
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Battery wiring

First thing, ALWAYS take a picture before you do anything. Second, I do not see a cable going from your common negative to the chassis? Maybe I canít see it in the pictures but you have the house bank negatives tied to the chassis negatives but where is the wire to the chassis?
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Old 10-06-2020, 10:59 AM   #35
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Thanks DrDave, I did take pictures, they are shown in the beginning of this thread. But, the batteries were oriented differently and looking at those pics is a confusing mess.

I didn’t remove any cables from the coach side of things, just from the batts.
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Old 10-06-2020, 07:11 PM   #36
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A couple of observations: On your as-found (before) photo it looks like you had a red smaller wire wrapped with black tape attached to the negative terminal of your front left house battery. Not sure, but couldn't find it anywhere on your as-left (after) photo.

Also, check voltage at the line and load sides of your generator breaker on the bulkhead right below your Battery Isolator. May just need to reset that breaker. If no voltage "in" at the breaker, then you need to verify you have that cable connected correctly. I couldn't see the other end of that cable on your as-found.
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:08 PM   #37
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Thank you for the help,.....


That smaller red wire w/black tape is the carge line from the solar controller. I do not have hat hooked up yet.


Now.... you're (we) are on to something with the other instruction. No voltage going to my generator breaker. I don't know how the Isolator works, but that is where the generator breaker gets its power. There are two cables coming off the left most lug on the isolator, one going to a + of the house batts, and one going to the breaker. Studying my before pics, i can see i left off the power lead. Stand by while i go add that, and see what happens.
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Old 10-07-2020, 09:01 AM   #38
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….ref your last para--the blue bat isolator has three lugs: left to a bat bank +, right to the other bank + and middle to the Cummins alternator only....genset breaker should go to the chassis bat bank +.....its really hard to understand exactly what you are doing without pictures....the main house bat bank + large cable goes to the fuse block on the wall to connect to your inverter and other no switched power [eg propane and CO2 sensors, steps, etc] in one of your earlier pics....that is a direct connect that is not switched by either the chassis or house bat kill switches...
PS...sorry I didn't notice your pictures in post #31....
PSS--the cable from your house bank + to the aforementioned fuse block is way to small for the inverter feed--s/b 3/0 or 4/0....
PSS- not do I see a large ground coming from the house bank--I see a large ground over to the chassis bats, then small ground in parallel to other chassis bat--I don't like the combination of large and small cables in your current config--IMHO....
PSS-- first and second house bat on right--looks like - going to - between one and two bats, then a + to a - between bats two and three...bats 1 and 2 should be in series, not 2 and 3?????
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Old 10-07-2020, 12:54 PM   #39
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Quote:
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PSS-- first and second house bat on right--looks like - going to - between one and two bats, then a + to a - between bats two and three...bats 1 and 2 should be in series, not 2 and 3?????
The 2 batteries in the foreground, left and right, form one set; batteries 2 and 3 (from front to back of the photo) on the right side comprise a second set.

The negative terminals of the 2 sets are daisy-chained together with the chassis batteries to the frame ground.

That makes the connections work as configured.
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Old 10-07-2020, 09:25 PM   #40
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Thank you both,..... it'll be a day before i can get back out there and look into and answer the above comments.... lots to unpack there....



Brain fried after a nearly 12hr day at work,... and now the VP debate is running in the background....


I'll be good as soon as the rum kicks in.
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Old 10-08-2020, 09:41 PM   #41
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okay gang,.....i've got it sorted. Now that the batteries are fully charged i was able to identify the 12v hot and ground of the house batteries. Once i had that figured out, i made a temp. connection to the left most post on the isolator and now we have proper voltage inside the house, and the generator breaker has power and of course starts.


Thanks everyone for the help.
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Old 10-08-2020, 11:06 PM   #42
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Quote:
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…....the main house bat bank + large cable goes to the fuse block on the wall to connect to your inverter and other no switched power [eg propane and CO2 sensors, steps, etc] in one of your earlier pics....that is a direct connect that is not switched by either the chassis or house bat kill switches... Could you point this wire out for me please

PSS--the cable from your house bank + to the aforementioned fuse block is way to small for the inverter feed--s/b 3/0 or 4/0.... I agree, the plan was to get it all reconnected, then once i knew it was working, go back thru and replace cables as needed. This one will be 3/0. I did upgrade 4 other cables to 3/0 already.

PSS- not do I see a large ground coming from the house bank--I see a large ground over to the chassis bats, then small ground in parallel to other chassis bat--I don't like the combination of large and small cables in your current config--IMHO.... If i add an additional ground from chassis batts, where would it go to and from ?

PSS-- first and second house bat on right--looks like - going to - between one and two bats, then a + to a - between bats two and three...bats 1 and 2 should be in series, not 2 and 3?????
I have them connected per the printed diagram that is posted above and taped to the inside of the battery bay from the factory. I agree it doesn't make sense. I thought i knew how to wire batteries in parallel and series, but this way has me baffled. Could you draw up how you mean ?

Thank you for the help
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