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Old 10-24-2020, 03:53 PM   #43
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So, I pulled all my batteries out today for winter storage in a barn.
It reminded me of an issue that I intended to address this summer.....but I didnt.
The issue is that there is a rediculous spaghetti pile of cables that would better dealt with by adding some terminal bus strips (probably on the chassis rail near the boost relay).
I would appreciate it if you people, who, unlike me, actually know what you are doing, would weigh in on my diagram.
I have 2 big questions:
1. I don't need a separate negative bus for the chassis, right? Everything shares the same ground, right?
2. For the battery monitor system to work correctly, the negative cable from the solar charge controller MUST go to the negative bus (or directly to the shunt) and NOT go to the battery (-) terminal. Correct?

And yes, I will clean and repaint the bay and replace some cables. And finally install my replacement boost relay and replacement Cole Hersee isolator.
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:49 PM   #44
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Diagram doesn't look right.
Green jumpers should only connect a + & - of a pair of 6V battys... no other connections. Some e siting look to be much longer than necessary. Generally jumpers are as short as possible and the same length.
Now you have 2 sets of 12V battys conne t Pos and run to the house load and connect Neg and run to chassis Neg.
I used Red & Black Rescue Tape to color code ends of ALL cables if they weren't already the correct color including shrink tubing at terminals.
The shunt needs to see ALL flow to/from batty bank whether load or charging sources.
If it were me I'd eliminate those terminal /post adapters as it adds unnecessary junctions when your battys have both posts & threaded terminals why add an adapter?
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:49 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianna View Post
The issue is that there is a ridiculous spaghetti pile of cables that would better dealt with by adding some terminal bus strips (probably on the chassis rail near the boost relay).
This is a good discussion. Thanks to all who have contributed.

I've been thinking about buss bars too. One of my positive battery terminals has 6 wires going to it. I'm thinking buss bars on the back wall would be a good solution for cleaning that up. Along those lines, having battery cable, the hardware, and a good crimper would help make a project like this move.

My batteries have steel angle bars for tie downs. They were constantly corroding until I installed to a Flo-Rite watering system. My corrosion problems seem to have gone away since then.

Dirt is what aggravates me the most about the battery compartment. What were they thinking leaving the compartment so wide open?
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Old 10-24-2020, 06:49 PM   #46
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This is a great resource for crimper info and crimp/crimping How To. If you DIY don't cheap out on supplies or tools. You likely won't save $ on one job but you will be set up for future jobs if/when needed.

https://marinehowto.com/
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Old 10-24-2020, 07:19 PM   #47
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The two cables I circled goto where the arrow points.Click image for larger version

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Old 10-25-2020, 05:27 AM   #48
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Thanks twinboat. Duhh, you are correct. As my diagram notes, those cables DID go to terminal 5.....but for some reason I had a momentary lapse of reason when I made the sketch yesterday.

Right now, both the chassis and house bank (+) each have at least 6 cables tied to the battery post.

Maybe I'm making a non-issue only because I haul the batteries twice a year. It is time consuming and kills my back to be leaning in there carefully color-coding and carefully isolating all the live cables. When I can be in a more temperate climate I won't be doing that any longer. Obviously it does work just fine as-is.

I'm also thinking a bus or two would be handy in the future if I go to lithium and relocate the batteries to the foot of the bed or something....or add more circuits, or expand to six 6-volt house batteries or whatever.
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:11 AM   #49
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The two cables I circled goto where the arrow points.Attachment 305801
twinboat
I'm thinking the shunt has to be the only path to the batty Neg or it won't capture all of the load or charge +/- to the battys and won't be accurate. Im assuming the second wire is to a chassis ground and will share a portion of the amp flow.
What am I missing?
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:15 AM   #50
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twinboat
I'm thinking the shunt has to be the only path to the batty Neg or it won't capture all of the load or charge +/- to the battys and won't be accurate. Im assuming the second wire is to a chassis ground and will share a portion of the amp flow.
What am I missing?
Your right, the solar wire should be above the shunt.

I was pointing out the big wiring issue.
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:48 AM   #51
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OK - glad we are on the same page!
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Old 10-25-2020, 12:08 PM   #52
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Brianna, I like your buss bar idea to help clean up the pasta premavera.
A good terminal crimper and shortening/lengthening the cables to the proper length helps organize things too. No, you shouldn't need a negative buss, but it would make future connections easier and neater.
Clean neatly routed wiring wasn't WRVs forte. Any improvement helps.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:10 PM   #53
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One other question, why pull the batteries ?

Get them fully charged, remove the 2 short jumpers between the batteries and close it up.
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Old 10-25-2020, 01:25 PM   #54
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One other question, why pull the batteries ?

Get them fully charged, remove the 2 short jumpers between the batteries and close it up.
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Old 10-26-2020, 07:51 AM   #55
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I pull the batteries because poor Alpine will be sitting in a barn without access or power for 6 months.

Here in the wisconsin tundra, temperatures can commonly reach 10 below zero, with occasional 40 below zero days. The chassis batteries might recover from that, but the house batteries would freeze, the electrolyte expand and crack the battery cases.
If I could trickle charge it, that would be a different story, but the barn has no power and the barn owner is not willing to add it.
Luckily our apartment has an attached garage so I put everything on smart chargers and check the water level in the house batteries once a month.
In the spring, startup is a breeze with fully charged and conditioned batteries.
Hopefully this is the last winter before our full time rv adventure starts.
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Old 10-26-2020, 04:00 PM   #56
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"Here in the wisconsin tundra, temperatures can commonly reach 10 below zero, with occasional 40 below zero days. The chassis batteries might recover from that, but the house batteries would freeze, the electrolyte expand and crack the battery cases."

If in good shape,, fully charged,and disconnected they will be fine for several months. Bringing home to keep charged is the safe way. I don't understand why you consider chassis battys different than house battys? I would treat them the same.
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