Here is how the brake system lays out:
I used 4 32 oz (1 gallon) bottles of brake fluid.
I have a tool to suck out the old brake fluid from the reservoir.
It takes a full bottle plus a little to fill the reservoir with fresh fluid.
I used a Motive Products Power bleeder to force in the new fluid. I bought this because I normally do not have a helper. It works, but the process is slow. Order the kit with the Chrysler Cap. As a bonus, it fits my Jeep too.
You need to get your coach up a little to be comfortable under the coach. I use 2 layers of 2x12 board under each wheel. I also put the jacks down. I do NOT bleed the air out of the bags before I lower the jacks.
Given the layout of the brake lines, I don't think it matters much which wheel you do first. You do need to run more fluid through the first wheel you do to clear the line to the ABS modulator as well as the line to your brake caliper. I did the passenger rear first and used nearly a full bottle of brake fluid there. I did the driver's rear next and only used 1/2 a bottle of brake fluid. I did the passenger front next and then the driver's front. I used 3/4 of a bottle on each wheel. I find it difficult to tell when the fresh fluid is coming through by color. The old fluid is darker when I start, but the color change is gradual. Like I said, the power bleeder is slow. The best thing about it is you are less likely to run the fluid low in the reservoir using the power bleeder.
If you are using a partner to help bleed the brakes, be advised that it takes some leg power to push the pedal down when the engine is off.
There is a "modern" method for bleeding brakes, different than what I learned when I was a boy. Do not pump the brake pedal. Have your helper push on the pedal, open the bleeder so the pedal goes to the floor, close the bleeder, release the pedal. If you are using this method, check the reservoir frequently. I'd be most comfortable if I had a second helper to watch the brake fluid reservoir while bleeding the brakes.
Linear Mode
