Brake fluid flush

[Cuda67bnl]

I’m gonna flush my brake fluid. For those that have done it, how much fluid might I expect to use?

[Dave Fernandez]

If you plan on completely changing/flushing the brake fluid I use and least 1 Gallon. On my 2001 I first drain the master cylinder divorced reservoir by disconnecting the line at the bottom than refilling with fresh fluid and I start my Flush. Right front wheel first since it is the longest line from master cylinder. Remember the brake lines go to the rear of the coach where the ABS modulator is located and returns to the front of the coach. The brake lines for the front calibers are at least 40 feet long and the rears are about 30 feet long to the caliber.

[Alpine36]

I used three quarts of DOT4 when I replaced all four dual piston calipers. (and all brake pads, rotors, hoses etc) As Dave said, drain the reservoir first. If you have the two piston floating calipers now is a good time to disassemble and lube the caliper slides. Not a huge job, just bigger stuff.

[andy29847]

Here is how the brake system lays out:


I used 4 32 oz (1 gallon) bottles of brake fluid.

I have a tool to suck out the old brake fluid from the reservoir.


It takes a full bottle plus a little to fill the reservoir with fresh fluid.

I used a Motive Products Power bleeder to force in the new fluid. I bought this because I normally do not have a helper. It works, but the process is slow. Order the kit with the Chrysler Cap. As a bonus, it fits my Jeep too.


You need to get your coach up a little to be comfortable under the coach. I use 2 layers of 2x12 board under each wheel. I also put the jacks down. I do NOT bleed the air out of the bags before I lower the jacks.


Given the layout of the brake lines, I don't think it matters much which wheel you do first. You do need to run more fluid through the first wheel you do to clear the line to the ABS modulator as well as the line to your brake caliper. I did the passenger rear first and used nearly a full bottle of brake fluid there. I did the driver's rear next and only used 1/2 a bottle of brake fluid. I did the passenger front next and then the driver's front. I used 3/4 of a bottle on each wheel. I find it difficult to tell when the fresh fluid is coming through by color. The old fluid is darker when I start, but the color change is gradual. Like I said, the power bleeder is slow. The best thing about it is you are less likely to run the fluid low in the reservoir using the power bleeder.

If you are using a partner to help bleed the brakes, be advised that it takes some leg power to push the pedal down when the engine is off.

There is a "modern" method for bleeding brakes, different than what I learned when I was a boy. Do not pump the brake pedal. Have your helper push on the pedal, open the bleeder so the pedal goes to the floor, close the bleeder, release the pedal. If you are using this method, check the reservoir frequently. I'd be most comfortable if I had a second helper to watch the brake fluid reservoir while bleeding the brakes.

[Cuda67bnl]

Thanks, guys.

[jeepster1952]

I have 2 sets of 4 piston rebuilt calipers for sale. I got extras when I did my brake job and didn't need them. Very heavy to ship. Live in central Illinois.
For 2002 Alpine 40'.

[feathersjr]

I too wanted to flush my brake fluid, but my 03 34FDDS has the 4 piston calipers and I don't think I can access to outer rear bleed valves without removing the rear wheels, is that true?
I've done lots of brakes over the years but these tires & rims are back breakers, not to mention the torque for the lug nuts.
May be there is some trick one of the senior members could share with a DIY type of guy, or is this something that should be done at a shop.
BTW, I slid under the rear to have a good look around and noticed the shock on the right rear is literally broke, and so I've ordered a new set of Koni's to match the fronts that I replaced earlier this year.
I had no idea how much FUN owning an Alpine was going to be

[Alpine36]

Tons of fun!
Can't say for sure if the four piston rear bleeders are accessible or not.
They are on the two piston version, but not very easily. I'd have a closer look after you've replaced those rear shocks, and greased the driveshaft, and inspected the hitch bolts, frame, suspension, radiator, cooling fan, hoses, belts, hydraulic pump, batteries, tires, wheels, rear diff.......
Hey, DIY maintenance is fun...right?

[Old Scout]

My experience--the 4-piston bleed screws [outside calipers] in the rear are not accessible without removing the wheels. The front can be done with wheels on but need to raise wheels so they can be rotated to the exact position for access--but still not easy to reach.

[Cuda67bnl]

Outside bleeders arent accessible. When I swapped my fluid, I just bled from the inside bleeders. I figured it had to be better than nothing, even though it left some old fluid. I figured it would all kinda blend together, and that I’d flush it again after driving it some. Haven’t done it yet though, lol.

[twinboat]

If you can pry the pads away from the rotor, pushing the pistons in, that would leave very little fluid in the bores.

[Old Scout]

The rear calipers on Alpines have a bad habit of collecting moisture--bite the bullet and remove the wheels.

[tiredvet]

This is odd reading this thread.Three weeks ago I had my brake fluid flushed on my 2003 34 fdds as I watched and I asked the tech if he was able to get on the inside rears and he said yes.Is there some difference on a 34' than the others?

[Old Scout]

Inside bleed screws are accessible; it's the outside ones you can't reach.