Coach Water Diverter valve

[Sideshow]

Anyone replaced the coach water diverter valve. If so can you access it from below of just take water panel apart to access it?
Also, anyone have a part number or just find something similar
at Home Depot?
Cheers
Bob

[Kid Gloves]

Are you referring to the city water/tank fill valve. It is a Flair-it 3-way valve, possibly part #06910. The easy fix is to simply remove and replace the internal parts with parts from a new valve. This can be done from outside the wet bay wall, by removing the handle, threading off the cap, pulling out the internals and then reversing the process with the new parts.

[Sideshow]

Kid Gloves,
Yep talking about the city/fresh water fill valve. I’ll take it apart and see what it looks like.
Thanks for the quick reply,
Cheers
Bob

[Jim A]

Buy the new valve and take it apart, and you will be more familiar with what is involved before taking apart the valve on the coach. I did it, and it is easy to do. Much easier than trying to remove the PEX tubing from the valve and completely replacing it. The valve plastic body itself is pretty much bullet proof, not likely to be bad. You can buy the valve on Amazon or at many RV parts stores. But probably not at most hardware stores. I carry a few spare valves with me, just in case. In 18+ years, I have had two failures.

[Sideshow]

Just a follow up, I pulled the front panel off and this is what I have.

I thought the freshwater tank/city water valve would be a three position valve. It’s an on/off valve. Previous owner didn’t do any dry camping, I dry camp a lot and just figuring this out as I go with all of your help
Looks like you need to set the valve to freshwater, fill the freshwater tank and then go back to city water.
If not it leaves the freshwater system open and water from tank goes to pump, through valve and back to tank, keeps circulating and water pump stays on.
Setting valve back to city water and using freshwater tank and water pump worked perfectly. [ATTACH][/ATTACH]

My question is, is this the standard set up or was this modified?

[Kid Gloves]

It could be the factory set up. WRV worked in mysterious ways.

Regardless, we only turn the valve to “Fresh Tank Fill” when we are actively filling the fresh water tank. That may or may not be a fairly standard practice among Alpine owners with the primitive water supply system. Those with the “auto tank fill/tank won’t fill, tank won’t stop filling” feature sometimes follow a different procedure, or have otherwise modified their plumbing.

[sandy1]

That is the factory setup. Only turn to freshwater fill while filling tank. Stays in city water position whether you are drawing from on board tank with pump or hooked up to external water pressure

[Bruce Anthon]

That is it exactly as built. Works great this way as well.

[BlaNics]

Kid Gloves...we have the same 3 way valve you mentioned, but valve is ONLY 2 position.Even with our fresh water tank filled, when valve is positioned to City Water, tank continues to fill and exits overflow tube. I found the part, RecPro 3 Way 1/2" 06910, on Amazon. However, you mentioned that by removing the handle and threading off the cap, the internal parts can be removed outside of the wet wall. But cap is situated pretty tight flush with the wall...how did you get it threaded off?

[Kid Gloves]

Originally Posted by BlaNics

Kid Gloves...we have the same 3 way valve you mentioned, but valve is ONLY 2 position.Even with our fresh water tank filled, when valve is positioned to City Water, tank continues to fill and exits overflow tube. I found the part, RecPro 3 Way 1/2" 06910, on Amazon. However, you mentioned that by removing the handle and threading off the cap, the internal parts can be removed outside of the wet wall. But cap is situated pretty tight flush with the wall...how did you get it threaded off?

If I recall, there is a “strap” that supports the Pex tube behind the wall that is accessible after removing the cover over the dump valves. I loosened/removed that which allowed the valve to be pulled away from the wall. Or, I may have pushed the valve behind the wall, changed the internals and then put the lever on after repositioning the valve? The valve could be considered a 2-way valve, since water can only be sent in 1 of 2 directions. Who named that thing?

[Jim A]

I loosened the screw holding the clamp, and pushed the valve back far enough to get pliers on the cap to loosen it. Once loosened I removed the cap and innards from the front. And installed the new pieces from the front. Then tightened the cap from behind. Then finally tightened the screw clamp. Easier than it sounds.