Community Forums

bcruzen · 06-05-2023, 09:40 AM

So, in finally accepting that I need to replace my fan controller, I have been in contact with Danfoss distributor Berandsen Fluid out of Spokane, WA. The new part number is 11163032. 56 day lead time and $1,341.76. What in the world on that price? Anyone else have other suggestions? It is absolutely highway robbery for that part at that price. I have also contacted Spencer Fluid Power, they are checking on it for me, but had nothing for me when I called. We will see.

Terry W · 06-05-2023, 12:51 PM

Blake,

Contact

Whitehouse Products Ltd in England

Phone +44 1475 742500

sales@whp.co.U.K.

or look them up on line. I used them for a new danfoss hyd pump a few years ago, excellent service and price. I couldn’t find one anywhere in the states and they had it to me in So Cal in 5 days, it was on their shelf in stock.

Good luck!

rrthor · 06-05-2023, 04:18 PM

I don't think you will have any luck with Whitehouse Products. I contacted them on 7/10/2020. Below is their response. When I ordered my part from Berendson it came from Italy and was sent to Berendson in Tennessee or some state near there IIRC for programming. The good news is the price hasn't gone up in almost 3 years.

I am attaching the Danfoss catalog if you do not already have it. Your controller would be on page 18. The catalog also has the part numbers for the electrical connector pieces that the controller mates too.

One more thing. A friend of mine has this same part as I do. We both noticed a slight increase in coolant temps. I generally run down the road around 195 degrees now.

Please let us know if you find a better source. BTW if I would of bought five of them from Berendson I could have gotten them for $950 a piece.

Below is the email I recieved from Whitehouse Products in the UK.
Good evening Richard,
I am sorry to say that I have no success at all with your enquiry.

The information I am getting from the Sauer Danfoss agents here
and in Europe is this product is now obsolete with no replacement
so not sure how you will get that now. Unless your machine manufacturer
still keeps them or has a replacement?

I am very sorry I have not been more help to you on this one.

Best Regards
Craig McFarlane

bcruzen · 06-06-2023, 11:32 AM

Rick,

So I went a little nerdy on that document you sent. A lot of great info in there. In fact, if nobody has noticed or knew, you can get the free software (Plus+1 & PID File) to read & edit the parameter's of the FDCA with a couple of connectors from your computer. Although, the links in the PDF do not work. There are also two connectors CG150-2 (USB to CAN) and 11168820 (DB9 to 3-pin Deutsch). The end of the document takes you through all the settings. Cool stuff.

So, here's the question. I have found a FDCA on Ebay, new in box for only $325. It's part number 11163007 and for a New Flyer Cummins (bus) . All the specs are the same as the 11163032 for our coach, except one. It has an additional temperature sensor input. Question is, is this a coolant temp sensor or air temp sensor. I may be crazy, but this may be an alternative. Thoughts? I could easily add an additional sensor.

-Blake

Old Scout · 06-06-2023, 12:39 PM

Here is an alternative: I am too lazy to search for it but there is an after-market solution here on IRV2 that by-passes the OEM electronic controller and uses a mechanical wax valve mounted in a bung installed on the coolant pipe to control the fan motor--believe its from source engineering. You still need to add some electric fans to the condenser coil, controlled by the AC compressor clutch circuit--this is also discussed on this forum.

Alpine06 · 06-14-2023, 09:08 PM

Ok this might not be the solution for everyone, but I did not replace the Danfoss Fan controller but installed a simple $15 PWM controller that I regulate. I measured the setting and the fan rpm using the simple strobe app on my phone. The advantage is that I am in full control of the engine temperature, so on long uphill stretches I just give it 2 clicks of more cooling before a steep incline and the temps barely rise. The drawback is that I will have to keep an eye on the temperature during driving but that is not a problem for me as I have the silverleafe in addition to the normal gauge.
I installed the unit 2 years and 12k miles ago and it still works fine. There are only 3 wires so it’s very hard to mess up and remember if anything fails the fan will default to full cooling.
The idea is from someone in the Fleetwood forum if I remember right as his failed twice and he sure would not buy a third one.
I thought of programming an ESP32 and take the ECM signal and apply a appropriate offset value to get a low and high fan rpm and also gaining the advantage that it will switch on when I turn the AC on. Well I tested that signal and was disappointed to learn that my ECM does not turn the fan on I thought on my 2006 that would be standard. With that knowledge I scrapped the idea of the ESP32 microcontroller and just used a simple PWM controller with a nob and a display.
Anyways if there is any interest I can elaborate further.
Jörg.

c_oneil · 06-15-2023, 05:08 AM

Jörg, You say your "ECM does not turn the fan on". What was the input signal that operated the fan if it wasn't the ECM? Was it just coolant temp or was it multiple data points?

I would be interested to hear more. My '05 has the same feature that the fan control does not increase the fan speed when you turn the dash air on. This is a problem I would like to address if possible.

Alpine06 · 06-15-2023, 05:27 AM

There are different versions of the Danfoss controller. On mine there is one input wire so the ECM takes full control of the valve for the fan. The Danfoss controller is just an amplifier for the signal. This gives the ECM more control, for instance some engines will turn the fan to full in the moment you turn the engine break on producing additional drag to slow your vehicle down. The signal from the ECM is a PWM signal (pulse with modulated) and the valve spool is preferably also regulated using a low Hz PWM Signal.
I set my fan rpm around 800 and rarely have to touch it.
One more comment to this: the fuel economy is impacted by how fast this fan runs.
Oh yes so I can see the ECM signal starting to regulate at a certain engine temp that is still working fine but my disappointment was that it did nothing for the dash air.

c_oneil · 06-15-2023, 08:30 AM

Did you disconnect the ECM from the fan controller and connect the new PWM motor controller there or did you leave the original fan controller connected and just rewire the controller valve to the new motor controller? Or something else?

Alpine06 · 06-18-2023, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by c_oneil

Did you disconnect the ECM from the fan controller and connect the new PWM motor controller there or did you leave the original fan controller connected and just rewire the controller valve to the new motor controller? Or something else?

I disconnected the wires to the fan controller. Then used the existing wires for 12V to power the new PWM Controller and connected the valve on the outside of that. The ECM wire is no longer connected. Really simple to do

bcruzen · 06-19-2023, 10:07 AM

So, I ended up ordering a wax valve from White House in England. Outstanding customer service and the part arrived to my doorstep in 5 days - also paid half the price that US suppliers wanted to charge. So, I have a few other projects I have been working on at the same time on the coach. I needed to replace the exhaust gaskets - had the squeal. I found three significant leaks by plumbing in my shop vac exhaust to the muffler discharge. Worked perfectly to find the leaks. So in doing that, I also performed an overhead since I had to take so much apart already. All the valves were within spec, but I reset them all since I was in there and it's such a PIA to get to that point. And of course to reset the valve lash, you need to remove the Jake assemblies, so those have been lashed as well when reinstalled. Also replaced the thermostat & coolant. Glad I did that, the old one was not "healthy" looking. Repainted the valve cover as paint had started pealing off of it and also repainted the thermostat housing - had some rust and repainted the muffler mounting brackets. Interesting fact I discovered. Once you have the expansion tank, muffler, muffler backet, exhaust down pipe and intake tube removed, you can stand where the muffler sits and work on the engine very easily. Made removing the turbo much easier. Also replaced my fuel filters, the engine mounted one is the BIGGIST PIA to remove of any filter I have changed in my life. They should have routed a few more wires and what not there to make the task even more challenging. Engineers are intelligent people, but I don't think they think a lot of the time when designing things especially when it comes to R&M, LOL. With that all being said, got everything put back together. Engine is running very smooth with the valve lash being back where it's supposed to be & no exhaust leaks. So here's the funny thing. I have the new wax valve installed in the previous model year stock location, just removed the plug and it treaded right in. I don't have all the hydraulic fittings yet to plumb it in, so the original electric box is still connected. While letting the engine come up to temp to check for leaks, guess what decided to work? Yeah, the Danfoss controller is working now the way it is supposed to be. Electronics, whatever.

sctalbott · 06-19-2023, 02:06 PM

WOW, Adjusted the valves, Cummins says at 150k, don’t think I’ll live long enough to see that. Don’t think my Danfoss is working properly either. Waiting for Jorg to figure something out. Good to see there’s still people like you not afraid to do what it takes to keep our Alpine up and running. Love my Hot Rod. Got mine where I’m really happy with it but there’s always something. Hope your Danfoss keeps working��

Rockrancher · 06-25-2023, 06:11 AM

I went through the whole issue of dealing with Danfoss and after several months gave up and went to Source Engineering to eliminate the electronics which are prone to failure. Cost was about $1k, installed in Veneta, Oregon this February. It was about half of what the Danfoss part was going to cost through Berendsen and would have required my installation. I've been extremely pleased and it has done an awesome job of controlling temperatures even going over long grades on a cross country trip this spring. It has also produced just shy of 1 mpg increase in fuel mileage because my fan was in default, i.e. was always on. Now I hold about 180-184 degrees normal running instead of 170 in default mode.