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Old 10-17-2021, 02:20 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astasoftride View Post
The ignition did have 0 when switch off and then 12.5 with switch on. It was working correctly

Ok this means your alternator is toast.
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Old 10-17-2021, 03:20 PM   #30
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Yup, if correct voltage as both SENSE and IGN terminals and no output from the B+ lug means your alternator is in "time out".
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Old 10-17-2021, 03:47 PM   #31
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I would highly recommend having the original alternator rebuilt by a reputable auto electric jobber. Usually they require a minimal investment in quality OEM parts and labor as opposed to some of the Chinesium crap sold online. Just my .02cents from years of heavy truck wrenching, you get what you pay for.
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Old 10-17-2021, 05:25 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
Yup, if correct voltage as both SENSE and IGN terminals and no output from the B+ lug means your alternator is in "time out".
I know you used to live around League City Tx area. Do you by chance have any recommendations on a rebuilder for the alternator?

thanks

Mike
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Old 10-17-2021, 06:18 PM   #33
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not in Texas, but I see these online.

Rebuild
"A-Alternator & Starter Rebuilders - Rebuilt-Installed Exchange - Bacliff, TX

New
Alternators and Starters Pearland Alternator Co., Inc. Alternator, alternators, starter, starters, school bus alternators
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Old 10-17-2021, 08:49 PM   #34
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Pearland Alternator is who I used.
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Old 10-21-2021, 04:03 PM   #35
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Beware of bad batteries

[QUOTE=Astasoftride;5950001]So the last time out I noticed that the voltage gauges were reading a little low at the dash. By gauges I mean the dash gauge, the ScanGauge D, and two others at the dash.

The readings started around 12.4 and then dropped during the drive to around 11.5. However, the next morning the reading at the rear compartment read 12.4. The posts under the windshield read 12.2.

Running the Cummins did not changes those readings. The coach drove fine and behaved as it should.

So what should be my plan to diagnose the issue? Does the alternator have a direct path to the battery bank? I know it doesn’t to the dash. So what/where should I be checking?

Oh the batteries are Interstate AGM’s. I do not know the age of them. Oddly enough it was not marked on the top of the batteries.

I plan on looking into this, this weekend. Thanks

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400 hp Cummins ISL[/QUOTE

Bad shorted batteries can cause a low voltage indication while continuing to overload alternator. While I do not want to diagnose without knowing all the facts this is a caution. I have burned up my alternator in past coaches and made my self a mental note to check batteries with this symptom. Check all batteries first. A bad shorted cell can be one of the culprits and can cause an alternator to think it is not keeping up until it destroys the alternator. Use a good auto 12 V charger with each set of two 6 V in series and make sure each set charges correctly and allows the set to float. If a set will not float ( stop auto charging after appropriate time) but continues to show a high charge, then you have confirmed at least one battery is defective. The auto charger seeing a Voltage less than about 13.5 will continue to try hard but will eventually destroy the remaining cells of the defective battery while over taxing the charger.
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Old 10-21-2021, 04:10 PM   #36
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Ground

I recently had a similar issue. The tech diagnosed it as a bad alternator. He replaced that and it did not improve. He later discovered that the ground cable connection at the starter had broken. He put a new end on the cable and all was fixed. He also offered to put the old alternator back on at no charge. Check all your ground connections and make sure the ground terminals at the battery are clean. Solving electrical issues can be tricky for sure. Good luck.
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Old 10-21-2021, 05:06 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Astasoftride View Post
...
Batteries nothing running 12.7
Batteries main engine running 12.5 - this is after a couple of minutes
Batteries with generator running 12.9

House batteries generator running 13.4...
1. Nothing running, 12.7 is good, shows batteries fully charged.
2. Engine running, the battery voltage for the chassis batteries should be 13.6-14.2 volts. If less than 13.2 volts the batteries won't fully charge.
3. In most class-A motor homes, the generator and shore power do not charge the chassis batteries, only the house batteries.
4. The engine will charge the chassis batteries, and normally the house batteries through an isolator. The isolator may be a diode version, or a solenoid (relay, big one...)
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Old 10-21-2021, 09:31 PM   #38
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Had the same problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Astasoftride View Post
So I checked the voltage at the alternator

DUVAC wire 12.5
Ignition did. Have switched power. Again the 12.5 ( this was the chassis battery voltage )

No power to the center terminal of the isolator.
I have the same altenator pictured. Electronic gizmo box on the alt went kaput in the worng place at the wrong time, and late at night. Sucked all the juice out of my batteries. Limped home, took the alt out and had it rebuilt by Genstar in Glendale AZ. Great family business, 45 yrs+ old. Worked fine, but then a wire broke internally and shorted out the new electronics. Genstar graciously took it back and put another electronics unit in for free. Also in my battery bay is the Xantrec echo charger, has two fuses in line to each battery group (house and engine). One was blown after second go around with the alt, replaced it and all is lovely again. Total cost (not including gas & travel time to the shop) for a rebuild was $68. And that includes two new bearings, sand blast the case to look like new and the electronics. What a deal!
Center terminal on this Leese-Nevell alt should read 7-12 volts with the ignition ON you should get some volt reading to excite the alt into operating. That was what the master rebuilder to me. Look on the outer terminals and youll also see them clearly stamped with a + & - symbols. Dont cross them up or youll toast a lot of electronics including your fingers.
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Old 11-01-2021, 07:51 AM   #39
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Just to close things out here.

I did replace the alternator. I am now getting the voltages expected.

Thanks for the helpful information along the way.

2003 36MDDS
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Old 11-01-2021, 12:34 PM   #40
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I just noticed that I had not provided the part numbers

Original alternator Leece Neville A0012824LC 14volt 160amps

Replaced with Wilson rebuilt from O’Reileys. Part number 90-04-7070

I am not sure if I will get the old one rebuilt or turn it in for the core charge.
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