Community Forums

whalepirot · 10-10-2020, 12:36 PM

Once upon a time, there was an operable link to properly adjusting the door latch. The link, she 'no workie'. Will someone please post the steps? Thanks.

At times, the door opens/closes normally, but often, rather hard inward pressure is required to release the latch. THe striker peg is tight and (I think) where it needs to be. Moving the peg outward seems will unseal the door from water intrusion, as the black surround seal/flange has a gap of 1/4" +/-.

In reviewing these threads, I'm considering possible movement of the clamp that secures the handle-to-latch cable.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/pm-...ch-267634.html
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/tal...ock-91793.html
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/doo...ied-93295.html

DrDaveMA · 10-10-2020, 03:08 PM

If the peg currently has the door sealed leave it that way, if not move it so it will seal properly. Adjust the clamp so it pulls the latch completely open. If this does not work reach out to PTL Engineering. When I needed a new piece for my door, wind in Montana caught it, they had me send a picture and then sent me the correct parts. They are very helpful. They have videos on their site and YouTube

https://ptlengineering.com

Check out the one on Handle Rod Adjustment.

Old Scout · 10-10-2020, 03:32 PM

….here is a little different perspective.....sounds like the inside gasket on the screen door might be part of the issue....not sure the latch assembly in the door is adjustable...and if the "striker peg" is already in what appears to be in the proper position [eg the outside door seal already has a slight crack]…..I would look to see how the screen door/gasket might be holding the door out....I had an issue with the door stoop after redoing the step cover material....changes to carpet or tile can raise the stoop trim and hold the door out-- just a thought

whalepirot · 10-11-2020, 12:27 PM

Thanks to you both. I made minor adjustments to the opening linkage, which seemed to help, but the issue has been intermittant.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrDaveMA

If the peg currently has the door sealed leave it that way, if not move it so it will seal properly. Adjust the clamp so it pulls the latch completely open. If this does not work reach out to PTL Engineering.

It seems obvious that the outer seal should lightly push against the RV body, which is NOT the case at the moment. I'd adjusted the peg outward, to ease the pressure on the latch, which I will redo as below.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Old Scout

sounds like the inside gasket on the screen door might be part of the issue....not sure the latch assembly in the door is adjustable...and if the "striker peg" is already in what appears to be in the proper position [eg the outside door seal already has a slight crack]…..I would look to see how the screen door/gasket might be holding the door out....I had an issue with the door stoop after redoing the step cover material....changes to carpet or tile can raise the stoop trim and hold the door out-- just a thought

I saw and considered that yesterday (appreciating the shared experience/insight). The screen door seal holds outward pressure on both doors, making contact when the handle side has 2-3" gap remaining, when closing. It seems excessive, but nothing had changed in that area, when this sometimes-hard opening issue started.

I have no recollection of wind or hard swing-open events that could have bent either door or altered their mounts. The screen seal looks to be in great shape; just kinda thick. I'll check shortly, if there is a hinge mount adjustment that would ease the pressure.

Again, thanks to two ever-present, informed dudes, dedicated to our community bond, abetting everlasting value to our favorite RVs!

whalepirot · 10-11-2020, 02:28 PM

Update: I overstated the exterior seal gap. It is now roughly 1/8", at the bottom only, after moving the lower hinge inwards. The top, only visible on the non-hinge side, presses against the RV body. I see no further adjustment to close that lower gap, unless the seal itself is misshapen with age (like me).

Small adjustments now allow the door handle to operate with minimal effort and nodoor pressing, however some pressure is needed for the dead bolt. I have no big problem with that, as it lessens the seal's gap.

Viewing the PTL videos makes me wonder if the door is slightly twisted, needing the hammer-adjustment to the flange, as shown in their door install video. I'll try that prior to shopping a the door seal (not screen).

whalepirot · 10-11-2020, 04:31 PM

As shown in the door install video, referenced prior, a block of wood and 4# hammer reshaped the edge flange, such that the exterior seal does.

Thanks to you both!

tonka96 · 10-12-2020, 01:00 PM

If your having tension opening you might want to check the "door stay open linkage".

I experienced kind of the same thing when I first bought my coach didn't realize that there was a stay open linkage on it and that was causing the tension when closing and opening the door.

whalepirot · 10-13-2020, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tonka96

If you're having tension opening you might want to check the "door stay open linkage".

Thanks!

The links above mostly deal with that exact problem. I adjusted the linkage for less handle slack; the exact method differing from the newer model in the videos, but spot on from posts, here. That reduced the handle effort.

I'd sought to establish a water resistant seal for the exterior door by adjusting the latch pin; not the best approach. The PTL procedure links in those threads had expired, but Dave's reference to their videos got me onto the door install vid, which was the answer to adjusting the seal-mounted flange (hammer/wood), which now snugs against the Alpine body.