Drag-Link Grease Boots?

[Old Scout]

Thought I would re-visit this issue now that the grease "boots" for the drag link on my 2003 have failed. Based on the 48 degree wheel cut and the associated modest bend for 03 and older drag links, I hoped to be immune from this but apparently not so. The good news is that the ball-joint ends are in near perfect condition despite having over 150,000 miles of use on them--probably my "A/R" approach to greasing. So the idea of replacing the gently worn end joints just to get new grease boots is troublesome to me.
Based on earlier posts, the idea of fabricating a DIY boot seems like the best way to go [ie, the cheapest way]. After disassembly and cleaning, I determined that a 1 inch I/D by .75 inch piece of heater hose is a perfect fit for the space between the joints and throw arms on either end. This provides a pretty effective way to seal the joint. Adding a wrap of 1 1/2 inch rubber stripping [eg, inter-tube material or fish pond liner] and a 1 3/4 inch hose clamp looks like it will pretty much "seal the deal."
Would be interested in any other creative DIY solutions.

[Ray,IN]

Will these replacements work? The MOOG boot fits tight, keeps out contaminants, allows for grease flow

[Rich and Cork]

Originally Posted by Old Scout

Thought I would re-visit this issue now that the grease "boots" for the drag link on my 2003 have failed. Based on the 48 degree wheel cut and the associated modest bend for 03 and older drag links, I hoped to be immune from this but apparently not so. The good news is that the ball-joint ends are in near perfect condition despite having over 150,000 miles of use on them--probably my "A/R" approach to greasing. So the idea of replacing the gently worn end joints just to get new grease boots is troublesome to me.
Based on earlier posts, the idea of fabricating a DIY boot seems like the best way to go [ie, the cheapest way]. After disassembly and cleaning, I determined that a 1 inch I/D by .75 inch piece of heater hose is a perfect fit for the space between the joints and throw arms on either end. This provides a pretty effective way to seal the joint. Adding a wrap of 1 1/2 inch rubber stripping [eg, inter-tube material or fish pond liner] and a 1 3/4 inch hose clamp looks like it will pretty much "seal the deal."
Would be interested in any other creative DIY solutions.

During servicing a couple of years ago I had the shop just replace the boot. Don't think it was difficult for them or expensive. I do a lot of my own work

[kraig]

If you do not want to replace the boot and do it your way, there are better materials that are more oil resistant. I have used 1/8" sheet neoprene for other things. You can buy different widths and they cut it by the foot. It is more flexible than an inner tube. You could use hose clamps or maybe nylon tie straps.


I buy the neoprene and all kinds of rubber products at Premier Rubber and Supply in Portland OR. 503 285 4697.

[Old Scout]

Appreciate the follow-up and suggestions.....So far, searching Meritor and Moog websites have produced little results. The drag link part #s listed in this forum dont show up or cross-ref anywhere. May end up going with a temporary DIY solution, pending more specifics on a part #. Most parts suppliers tend to go with year, make, model Vs generic part dimensions like diameter, length, width, etc.

[Rich and Cork]

I looked at my work order and it had a 10119 Drag Link Boot. I did a google and could not find quickly. May have just been their numbering system for that repair.