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06-16-2019, 03:27 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old-Biscuit
Either the transfer switch (as discussed) OR the shore power cord
First symptom was the 'partial; working issue (fridge/some outlets---probably all fed from same bus bar)
Then nothing worked on shore power
Need to open transfer box and check/tighten ALL wire connections...shore in/gen in and main out---ALL AC Power OFF!!!!
Then plug in shore power cord and test that both legs are HOT (L1/L2)
Both hot...then test Main out. No main out---bad relays/connects in transfer switch
Both NOT hot..bad power cord
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This is the best advice. Before replacing the transfer switch check the connections in it and then use a meter to test continuity between the plug prongs and the appropriate posts in the transfer switch box. Could be a bad plug or shore cord. It could also be a bad outlet in the pedestal. Did you try another pedestal? I've had to move more than once because the pedestal was bad.
__________________
Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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06-16-2019, 03:43 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Entegra Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Box Elder, SD
Posts: 842
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Nowhere in here do I read any replies that mention surge suppression or contactor hum. If you have a humming noise it is an indication of one or more contactors going bad and this can cause resistance across the contacts when energized. The hum noise is hard to miss, so if it's there you will know it. Since separate contactors are used for each input (shore power or generator), if you have hum or suspect a transfer switch issue swap the inputs on your transfer switch and see if that gives you power. This issue is more common with Surge Guard than it is with Progressive in my limited experience. You could have one or more loose terminals in your transfer switch. Make sure they are clamped down tight onto the input cables and that the cables are fully inserted and not frayed. Surge suppression also could be the issue. Some transfer switches have built-in surge suppression and some don't. The built-in variety could be one and done or or could handle a surge and keep on running. I have been told by a number of RV techs that the one and done suppressors can, once it has seen a large momentary surge, no longer allow current or only allow limited current to flow. This sounds like it could be your issue. Either way, your transfer switch will need to be replaced. I have a Surge Guard one and done transfer switch in my DP and I installed a Progressive surge protector in front of it to prevent the transfer switch from taking a surge. I strongly recommend installing one of these either at the power pole or internally in your coach. I mounted mine directly behind my 50 amp cord reel, cut two feet off of a 50 amp extension cord to wire it in, then installed a plug on my cut extension. I have been in two parks with power issues since and in one the park maintenance people used my Progressive remote readout to monitor what was going on electrically in the park (cycling between 96V and 117V).
__________________
2016 Entegra Anthem 42RBQ
2019 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid
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06-16-2019, 03:56 PM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Englewood Fl
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
This is the best advice. Before replacing the transfer switch check the connections in it and then use a meter to test continuity between the plug prongs and the appropriate posts in the transfer switch box. Could be a bad plug or shore cord. It could also be a bad outlet in the pedestal. Did you try another pedestal? I've had to move more than once because the pedestal was bad.
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I had a similar problem last year on Texas. It was only 100 degrees and I kept having an intermittent problem with no ac then sometimes I would have it. I finally found the problem. The power cable went around the power reel then went to a junction box then power went to the transfer switch. Finally opened the junction box and using rubber gloves with power applied to the coach moved the connections around. While moving one of them I could hear the transfer switch click on and off. Upon further inspection one of the wires had come loose from the wire nut and was making intermittent contact even though the wire nuts were taped with electrical tape. I replaced all 4 of the wire nuts, used zip ties on each set of wires then electrical tape over the wire nuts and zip ties. No problems since. One note: I didn't check the junction box out carefully at first because after looking at it I thought well the wires have wire nuts and tape on them, what could go wrong? I sure could have saved a lot of time if I would have just did good troubleshooting from the git go.
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06-16-2019, 04:27 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 3
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Get a good VOM!
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie
It's time to buy a multi-meter and learn how to use it. You could have found this problem yourself in 15 min. $6.00 at Harbor Fright will do nicely.
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The HF multimeter may be adequate for checking resistance but I would hesitate to use an HF meter on live circuits.
Meters are identified as to Class; Class III or Class IV should be used for household power circuits. Recommendation for the Fluke Non-contact tester is a good idea. I don’t know that the HF meters are rated Iii or IV.
Be Safe!
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06-16-2019, 04:28 PM
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#33
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 3
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electrical
there are 3 40 amp fuses on your converter. If these are blown no power passes past this point. I have fixed this problem before by changing these fuses. Hope this is it.. good luck
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06-16-2019, 04:29 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dittmer, MO 63023
Posts: 1,122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sbrownstein
This could all be an adapter or cord problem. Since the generator works that means that half of the transfer switch is working correctly. You could have a bad contact or coil in the transfer switch relay.
However, the first thing that I would verify is that you have both legs energized AT THE TRANSFER SWITCH from the shore power cord. If you are not comfortable with measuring voltages...do not do this. If you are, remove the cover and verify that you have 120 volts between the black and white and the red and white coming from the shore power cord. You should also hear a "clunk" when you plug in the shore power cable, which would be the shore relay pulling in. If it doesn't clunk, you either have no power to the switch or a bad relay coil or control board.
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A couple of recommendations when plugging into shore power. One never plug into or unplug from shore power with the supply circuit in the on position. Turn the breaker or disconnect off first. (This prevents the chance or arc flash from energizing a loaded circuit.) Second turn your generator off before doing the above. This prevents the chance of back feeding your generator in the event your transfer switch fails.
As for as diagnosis goes to your issue assuming you are confident and comfortable with checking live power. You need to access where you power cord feeds your transfer switch and inverter. Make sure there is power coming into the switch and then out of the switch. If the power is coming in ok 120 volts per leg (red to ground and black to ground) and coming out of the switch the same then your switch is good if not then it is the switch. If it is not coming in to the switch it is either the shore power or the cord. Next is if you you are good at the above points then check the power into your inverter and out of the inverter if it good in and bad out it may be your inverter, if it is bad in then the problem is between your transfer switch and inverter. Most likely since you have good power from your generator then it is at the switch or before it. The part I’m not understanding if why you have power to some places and not others when hooked up unless it is your power adapter.
As an added note is they do make an adapter that taps both the 30 amp circuit and the 20 amp circuit and converts to a 50 amp receptacle.
Also low incoming voltage can cause the fuse to blow on the inverter.
__________________
2005 CC Affinity 770, 2006 Jeep TJ
2015 Newmar Essex 4553 2022 Jeep Gladiator.
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06-16-2019, 05:22 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 169
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Electric issue
I recently sold my 1998 Alpine 36SDS. I had a number of issues and got most all of them solved on the Alpine Coach Forum. Most of the members really know their Alpines inside and out. You should try the Alpine Coach Forum.
__________________
2007 Roadtrek 170 Popular
Indio, CA
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06-16-2019, 06:11 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Full timer; somewhere new every month!
Posts: 211
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"Need to open transfer box and check/tighten ALL wire connections"
Ummmmm. People need to be VERY careful when tightening electrical connections. Some have VERY SPECIFIC torque settings that are EASY to exceed. Once over tightened, you WILL have new problems. Check panel covers / boxes. If you see a torque value listed, PAY ATTENTION!
Also, EVERY RVer should carry some BASIC electrical test equipment. The three basics are
1: NCVT Non-Contact Voltage Tester
2: Three Light Polarity Checker and
3: DMM (Digital Multi-Meter [or equivalent analog Volt Ohm Meter] ).
Walmart has these three basic tools in a single kit (which also includes a zipper case) for < $25! At that price, these ARE basic, entry level tools but, they will serve the RVer who is doing basic checks.
Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/ESYNIC-Di...tter/576588092
Southwest 3 Tool Kit on Amazon < $30 : https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-100...p_ob_title_def
NOTE: Mike Sokol has started teaching Basic and Advanced RV Electric Classes at a modest fee. I was in the first of Mike's classes and took BOTH. WELL worth the time and money. Classes are advertised on Chuck Woodbury's RVTravel.com website (which ALL RVers should be reading).
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06-16-2019, 07:52 PM
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#37
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 98
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Transfer switch
Don’t know if this is of any help, but something to maybe check. Several years ago we were in campground with everything working. When we went to leave, it was extremely hot and I wanted to run generator for roof airs. Generator ran fine but was getting no ac to anything or air units. We suffered all the way back home. I tightened all connections etc . No transfer of power. Called transfer manufacturer which was iota if I remember and tech said probably a couple dollar circuit board which is basically a timer delay. Walked thru how to bypass and manually turn ac on etc. it has if I recall a bypass switch that had I known would have made our return trip more comfortable. Good luck and as others have mentioned be careful with power.
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06-16-2019, 10:54 PM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 15
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Electrical Conundrum
Had similar issue. Found the element in WH was rotted through, exposing elements. Tripped the GFIC Replace WH element or at least check its resistance 16 ohms I think.
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06-17-2019, 04:35 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3,165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterops1
The HF multimeter may be adequate for checking resistance but I would hesitate to use an HF meter on live circuits.
Meters are identified as to Class; Class III or Class IV should be used for household power circuits. Recommendation for the Fluke Non-contact tester is a good idea. I don’t know that the HF meters are rated Iii or IV.
Be Safe!
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50 year licensed master electrician. I have no problem using it at all. Not 100% accurate in all functions but works great around the RV. A non working electric person needs nothing more. Now if I was working with 277 and higher voltage I would not touch the HF meter.
__________________
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323 BHS. Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale MA. Retired Master Electrician. All Motor homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor homes.
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06-17-2019, 04:41 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 3,165
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[/attach]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ny24
"need to open transfer box and check/tighten all wire connections"
ummmmm. People need to be very careful when tightening electrical connections. Some have very specific torque settings that are easy to exceed. Once over tightened, you will have new problems. Check panel covers / boxes. If you see a torque value listed, pay attention!
Also, every rver should carry some basic electrical test equipment. The three basics are
1: Ncvt non-contact voltage tester
2: Three light polarity checker and
3: Dmm (digital multi-meter [or equivalent analog volt ohm meter] ).
Walmart has these three basic tools in a single kit (which also includes a zipper case) for < $25! At that price, these are basic, entry level tools but, they will serve the rver who is doing basic checks.
Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/esynic-di...tter/576588092
southwest 3 tool kit on amazon < $30 : https://www.amazon.com/southwire-100...p_ob_title_def
note: Mike sokol has started teaching basic and advanced rv electric classes at a modest fee. I was in the first of mike's classes and took both. well worth the time and money. Classes are advertised on chuck woodbury's rvtravel.com website (which all rvers should be reading).
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__________________
2011 Keystone Sprinter 323 BHS. Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale MA. Retired Master Electrician. All Motor homes are RV's. All RV's are not Motor homes.
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06-17-2019, 10:55 AM
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#41
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 8
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REMOVE all power
Quote:
Originally Posted by oscarvan
Yes, sounds like the transfer switch could be the problem. The tech should have looked in to that.
Follow the shore power cord in, it will lead to a box. When switching between sources you should hear pretty audible "CLICK" coming out of this box. (It's the relay driven contacts flopping back and forth)
It's job is to allow EITHER the generator OR the shore power in, as both at the same time is not good.
There are a few different designs out there, but most likely with the generator OFF and plugging in the shore power you should hear it. MOST transfer switches will favor the generator. SOME are at rest in that position. MANY are dual relay and EITHER will close when power is applied, with the generator having priority, and never both at the same time.
If you don't hear any clicking it's time to go in there with a volt meter and see what the transfer switch is doing.
(Some people have had results "whacking" the box to shake the relays loose, but that's not really a fix)
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Option for testing/ temp road fix.
With all power removed and verified 3 times.
Remove the transfer box cover and use a rubber or plastic hammer and tap the relay a couple of times, replace the cover.
Then apply shore power to test. Some times relays stick so may break lose and you can continue and replace at home or by qualified tech.
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06-17-2019, 02:34 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: SJ, CA
Posts: 202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NY24
"Need to open transfer box and check/tighten ALL wire connections"
Ummmmm. People need to be VERY careful when tightening electrical connections. Some have VERY SPECIFIC torque settings that are EASY to exceed. Once over tightened, you WILL have new problems. Check panel covers / boxes. If you see a torque value listed, PAY ATTENTION!
Also, EVERY RVer should carry some BASIC electrical test equipment. The three basics are
1: NCVT Non-Contact Voltage Tester
2: Three Light Polarity Checker and
3: DMM (Digital Multi-Meter [or equivalent analog Volt Ohm Meter] ).
Walmart has these three basic tools in a single kit (which also includes a zipper case) for < $25! At that price, these ARE basic, entry level tools but, they will serve the RVer who is doing basic checks.
Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/ESYNIC-Di...tter/576588092
Southwest 3 Tool Kit on Amazon < $30 : https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-100...p_ob_title_def
NOTE: Mike Sokol has started teaching Basic and Advanced RV Electric Classes at a modest fee. I was in the first of Mike's classes and took BOTH. WELL worth the time and money. Classes are advertised on Chuck Woodbury's RVTravel.com website (which ALL RVers should be reading).
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Excellent advice on making sure to torque connections to proper number. We found out the hard way on our last trip. To start I thought I smelled electrical smell. Husband didn’t. Half our power would go out. Husband would flip a switch, back on. Finally, one morning smelled it really strong and knew for sure it had to be something sure. And of course half our power went out. It was the transfer switch. Got a great mobile service tech out who expertise was electrical. Wired us to have power while we waited for new transfer switch to come next day. After “Henry” finished installation he told us all connections save one were loose and the one that wasn’t was fried & welded. Then he told us that once a year we should tighten the connections making sure to torque to number per manufacturer. Our coach is 17 years old, so we are lucky it lasted this long and incredibly lucky/blessed the coach didn’t catch fire. In all my reading never saw anything about including tightening transfer switch connections down once a year. On our list now for sure.
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