Electrical upgrade

[Mitimet]

I have a 2000 36FDS. We have installed a MultiPlus 12/3000/120-50 120V, Lynx Distributor, 2 Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30 isolated dc to dc chargers, smart dongle for now, 3 Lithium iron phosphate 12V batteries 100ah. Smart shunt also along with various high amperage fuses Dragonfly energy suggested.
My Industrial, commercial, residential electrician friend asks" how to wire up like to your alternator"? He may not mess with automotive much but by far is the best help that I can get. Included are pics I took today of the partial installation we have done so far. It is Thurs evening and he will be back to finish install Saturday morning.
Looking forward to your suggestions.
Thanks Mark Pobanz

[OldWEB]

The literature shows this...

[paul65k]

Originally Posted by Mitimet

I have a 2000 36FDS. We have installed a MultiPlus 12/3000/120-50 120V, Lynx Distributor, 2 Orion Tr Smart 12/12-30 isolated dc to dc chargers, smart dongle for now, 3 Lithium iron phosphate 12V batteries 100ah. Smart shunt also along with various high amperage fuses Dragonfly energy suggested.
My Industrial, commercial, residential electrician friend asks" how to wire up like to your alternator"? He may not mess with automotive much but by far is the best help that I can get. Included are pics I took today of the partial installation we have done so far. It is Thurs evening and he will be back to finish install Saturday morning.
Looking forward to your suggestions.
Thanks Mark Pobanz

As I mentioned on the phone

• Disconnect BIM and wire alternator directly to the Chassis batteries.
• Feed DC-DC converters from starting batteries
• Output from DC-DC to Lynx distributor
• Make sure you add a Midnight solar Baby box with 60A DC (or equivalent) between chassis batteries and DC-DC as well as DC-DC to Lynx Distributor

You will also need to program the Orion's so that they are only excited when the alternator is producing power to the batteries

[Mitimet]

Thanks for the thumbnail and the information. I do not have solar but thanks for the heads-up. Mark

[Mitimet]

One more question, I see the left cable on the blue finned BIM is going to the house batteries. Any chance you can tell which of the middle and right cables goes to the Alternator? I tried to follow them but they go to the left in the same area. Chassis batteries are dead but if all else fails we'll install new ones I have. I can start the engine checking the voltage feed from the Alternator.

[twinboat]

That's not a BIM it's a diode based battery isolator.

The center terminal is from the alternator.

Tie that wire directly to the side terminal wire that goes to the chassis battery.

That leaves a cable to the house battery that you can use on your DC to DC charger.

[paul65k]

Originally Posted by twinboat

That's not a BIM it's a diode based battery isolator.

The center terminal is from the alternator.

Tie that wire directly to the side terminal wire that goes to the chassis battery.

That leaves a cable to the house battery that you can use on your DC to DC charger.

Twinboat is correct the battery isolator is in fact the blue box and serves the purpose of a BIM in this application.

[Mitimet]

One final question but very intimidating, how do I program my Orion's dc to dc chargers so that they are only excited when the alternator is producing power to the batteries. I want to test drive my rv but am afraid to before I can do the above mentioned.

[Mitimet]

Originally Posted by paul65k

As I mentioned on the phone

• Disconnect BIM and wire alternator directly to the Chassis batteries.
• Feed DC-DC converters from starting batteries
• Output from DC-DC to Lynx distributor
• Make sure you add a Midnight solar Baby box with 60A DC (or equivalent) between chassis batteries and DC-DC as well as DC-DC to Lynx Distributor

You will also need to program the Orion's so that they are only excited when the alternator is producing power to the batteries

Started generator for 1st time in a while, was cranking slow. Coach wouldn't turn over enough. Hooked up battery chargers to the chassis batteries and got the generator started again. Now I expect my 2 Victron 30a DC-DC to charge at 60A. Nope, charge is disabled due to" Input voltage lock-out, Engine shutdown is detected, 11.1V. "
Also Paul 65K said make sure to program Orion dc-dc chargersto get excited only when the alternator is producing power to the batteries. My problem is I'm running the generator to get the orions to slam charge the Lithium house batteries and chassis batteries because I can't start coach engine.
Thanks Mark Pobanz

[paul65k]

Originally Posted by Mitimet

Also Paul 65K said make sure to program Orion dc-dc chargersto get excited only when the alternator is producing power to the batteries. My problem is I'm running the generator to get the orions to slam charge the Lithium house batteries and chassis batteries because I can't start coach engine.
Thanks Mark Pobanz

The DC-DC chargers should only charge with the engine running, if you're running the generator then your inverter/charger will be the charging source for the house batteries and based on your set-up the echo charger (If you still have factory inverter) should charge the chassis batteries.

Your best bet at this point might be to jump-start the engine and let the alternator charge the chassis batteries.

[Mitimet]

Thanks for the great explanation. I had in my head a different operation so this will clear things up for the future. Yes I will jump the engine to start, still not sure how batteries got drained but I will have pay closer attention to phone app monitoring.
Mark