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Old 04-11-2020, 04:52 PM   #1
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FASS Fuel System Install to Alpine

Finally completed the Fass install and thought I'd share the process involved.
First are the parts needed for a successful install. I ordered the Fass Titanium Series part# TSD08100G kit from Parleys diesel, $649, no tax, free shipping. You will also need to order two AN10 female to 1/2" hose barbs, one AN10 male male 90 degree elbow, one 3/4" male npt to 1/2" hose barb and one Bosch relay typically used for fog lamp installs. Optional things to order are one AN10 male male connector and two AN10 female caps if you wish to bypass the OE Cummins lift pump. (I havent yet)
Note: FASS does not carry any AN10 fittings whatsoever.
(or JIC, potato, patato) I ordered them from Jegs.


First things first you need to disable the 12v feed to the OE lift pump and install those two wires to terminals 85 and 86 of the Bosch relay. Polarity makes no difference, your simply energizing the coil to fool the engine computer, otherwise you'll throw a code 278.
I simply cut the wires and used female spade connectors.

Next, mount the pump. I chose the location above the washer bottle. Use the T bracket that comes in the kit. I used four 1/4" self tapping lags in the 1x2 bracing and mounted it as high as possible with the fuel inlet (T) facing inboard. Theres plenty of clearance here, don't worry about the cap or headlight hitting anything when its retracted.

Next comes the wiring. Very straight forward here, and the kit comes with a very nice harness, relay and two fuse holders. The harness is very long. I simply coiled it up, ran the B+ and ground to the existing studs on the firewall and passed the 12v ignition feed into the coach fuse panel and used the turn signal fuse location. The kit comes with the fuse adapter and 3a fuse. Ignition on B+only.
Mounting the pump and wiring was easy peasy.
.
Next comes the plumbing. The fuel tank sits behind the generator. The suction line going to the engine is a AN10 90 degree hose, on the upper left side of the tank. Remove it and install the AN10 90 degree male elbow to the original hose. Install the AN10 female hose barb fittings, one to the tank outlet and one to the original hose with the 90 degree fitting. Remove the 3/4" pipe plug from the upper left side of the tank and install your 3/4" male npt to 1/2" hose barb fitting. This is your return line. The kit comes with enough 1/2" fuel hose to do everything. Plumb the tank outlet to the Fass port T. Plumb the original suction line to engine to Fass port E. Plumb the return line to the remaining port, secure all hoses away from the generaror and your done. Note, all NPT threads require teflon tape. AN, or JIC fittings do NOT. Simply use a little oil on those.

(Service hint: If you haven't done so yet, nows a good time to pull the cover off your generator wiring junction box and inspect the known wire nut issue there)

Basicall it took longer to research parts than the install actually took. The advantages to mounting the Fass up forward are many.
First, the kit comes with enough hose, and you dont have to run a return line all the way forward. Secondly it retains your original 1022 fuel filter and water alarm. Thirdly, your fuel is now being delivered via positive pressure rether that the Fass being fed under a negative pressure 30' away. Lastly, the wiring is super easy where it resides.

One last note, if you decide to install a fuel pressure gauge you have two choices, one on the Fass pump or one at the OE fuel filter housing. If you decide to mount it in the filter bay make sure to get the correct 10mm to 1/8" npt adapter and only use a 1-1/2" x 1/8" gauge. Anything larger wont fit.

Hope this helps anyone considering this upgrade.
It's not complicated at all.
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Old 04-13-2020, 11:22 AM   #2
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Update, after running this for a fairly long test drive I noticed two things.
One, a noticeable increase in acceleration and overall smoothness in all rpm ranges. We have a 750' increase in elevation between "town" and our house, a three mile drive. Usually come up the hill in 3rd gear, hammer down at 35mph. Now 40mph in 4th gear, no problem.

Two, the fuel pressure gauge was fluctuating rapidly between 14-18psi.
I bypassed the fuel feed in/out on the original lift pump with a AN10 male male fitting and capped the original fittings, but left the Caps pump return lines connected to the original lift pump manifold. Now the fuel pressure is a steady 17psi thru all rpm ranges. I suspect the check valve in the original lift pump was causing that fluctuation.
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Old 04-13-2020, 01:02 PM   #3
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Good write up. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 04-20-2020, 06:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alpine36 View Post
A noticeable increase in acceleration and overall smoothness in all rpm ranges. We have a 750' increase in elevation between "town" and our house, a three mile drive. Usually come up the hill in 3rd gear, hammer down at 35mph. Now 40mph in 4th gear, no problem.
That was an unexpected improvement. I did not expect you would notice a seat of the pants difference. This post and imnprsd post: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/cumm...mp-458337.html

Both posts were a great learning experience. You provided good detail. I was aware of the lift pump and its importance, and from your post certainly made me wonder if Cummins pump was designed to pull fuel nearly 40 feet. Of course, a FASS upgrade on an Alpine was of particular interest. Hopefully in the not too distant future, I will PM you with a few questions.
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Old 04-21-2020, 06:31 AM   #5
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…..my understanding of the Cummins OEM lift pump function [as confirmed by my Cummins service manager] is that the pump only runs during the engine start phase. Once the Cummins is running, the lift pump shuts off and the main CAPS pump handles fuel transfer. Seems to make sense given the 10 second run time for the lift pump--if you don't start the Cummins.
The known issue with the OEM lift pump, is a leaking gasket between the pump motor and manifold. IF the lift pump functions as a pass-thru during normal Cummins engine ops, then the leak has two dimensions: 1- fuel [pressure] is lost to the outside [symptom--fuel drips from area below starter/flywheel pan; and 2- perhaps more important, air is "sucked" into the CAPS, reducing lubrication and affecting pump/engine performance.....
There is at least one post on this forum discounting the "value" of a FASS pump install. Personally, I cant see any downside to your project....
PS -- after several attempts over several years to fix the gasket leak [re-tighten pump manifold bolts], I had Cummins replace the lift pump. Interestingly, I experienced similar improvements in engine performance. I didn't confirm pre- and post fuel pressure readings with Cummins.
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Old 04-21-2020, 11:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
…..my understanding of the Cummins OEM lift pump function [as confirmed by my Cummins service manager] is that the pump only runs during the engine start phase. Once the Cummins is running, the lift pump shuts off and the main CAPS pump handles fuel transfer. Seems to make sense given the 10 second run time for the lift pump--if you don't start the Cummins.
The known issue with the OEM lift pump, is a leaking gasket between the pump motor and manifold. IF the lift pump functions as a pass-thru during normal Cummins engine ops, then the leak has two dimensions: 1- fuel [pressure] is lost to the outside [symptom--fuel drips from area below starter/flywheel pan; and 2- perhaps more important, air is "sucked" into the CAPS, reducing lubrication and affecting pump/engine performance.....
There is at least one post on this forum discounting the "value" of a FASS pump install. Personally, I cant see any downside to your project....
PS -- after several attempts over several years to fix the gasket leak [re-tighten pump manifold bolts], I had Cummins replace the lift pump. Interestingly, I experienced similar improvements in engine performance. I didn't confirm pre- and post fuel pressure readings with Cummins.
Interesting you noted an improvement also.
Our OE lift pump was not only leaking, it failed altogether and triggered a fault code, so that may have caused it to feel just a little sluggish. Time will tell if there are truly any remarkable performance or mpg gains. Some of what I felt could just be that spending $700 has to make it perform better..or the fact I wasn't dragging the toad.
I will post positive or negative gains...once we can actually travel again.
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Old 04-21-2020, 01:50 PM   #7
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….likewise, only have about 3-4k miles on coach since lift pump replacement -- as I stated, "believe" engine performance is noticeably better; also tend to believe MPG is slightly worse--go figure????......appreciated your write-up on the FASS install!!!!
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Old 04-21-2020, 04:24 PM   #8
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Fass pump

I think there a few more reasons to install different supply pump to our caps engines. 1) The stock lift pump shuts down after 30 seconds, and the caps pump must then pull fuel over 30ft at a negative pressure and if there is any slight leak the pump can loose lubrication possibly causing pump failure. 2) The Fass system not only removes air from the fuel it also continually filtering the fuel which can't be a bad thing. Another thought is the fact that with the original system with the fuel in a negative pressure any air bubbles in that system the bubbles will be larger. And finally it's reported that the engine is quieter after the Fass system is install, I believe this is because airless fuel at a positive pressure supplied to the caps pump makes the engine very happy. With all that said I will be installing one on my coach in the next few weeks. But in researching for my 04 I have discovered that the fittings are different from Alpine36's write up, I will update later.
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Old 05-24-2020, 07:03 PM   #9
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Alpine: I just found your post and like how you decided to install the fuel pump near the the tank so it pushes fuel to the injection pump.

This is the more traditional way of doing it, because all pump "push" fuel more efficiently and reliably vs. "pulling" fuel from a tank.

Can you share more information about your coach so we all know why you decided to go this route?

* What chassis does your Alpine use? ...I seem to remember they made their own, but I can't remember.

* Does your coach have an Independent Front Suspension (IFS)? I ask because some Spartan owners put the FASS or AirDog here, but in my Freightliner with an IFS there is no room.

* Does your Alpine have a side radiator? Again, this about finding room for your FASS pump.

* What about a fuel filter bay? ...I presume you had 2 filters located there. Is that true or did your engine come with just 1 filter?

* You said you kept the FS1022 w/WIF sensor... so I assume you now have 3 filters?

* What is your fuel filter flow: Example: 20u ==> 10u ==> 10u (WIF) or ???

* Do you have access to the top of your fuel tank? ...to run the fuel lines to the FASS pump?

Finally, can you explain how you plumbed fuel lines from and back to your fuel tank... by explaining what #1, #2, #3, and #4 are in the pictures below?

Note to all: The top picture is the "before" FASS installation, and the blue fuel lines are the "after" FASS installation.

* Did you capture and return fuel from/to the side of the tank?

* Also, if these are fuel delivery lines, they look like they connect to fuel bungs located above the generator fuel delivery line (#4). Is that correct?
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Old 05-25-2020, 12:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Alpine: I just found your post and like how you decided to install the fuel pump near the the tank so it pushes fuel to the injection pump.

This is the more traditional way of doing it, because all pump "push" fuel more efficiently and reliably vs. "pulling" fuel from a tank.

Can you share more information about your coach so we all know why you decided to go this route?

* What chassis does your Alpine use? ...I seem to remember they made their own, but I can't remember.

* Does your coach have an Independent Front Suspension (IFS)? I ask because some Spartan owners put the FASS or AirDog here, but in my Freightliner with an IFS there is no room.

* Does your Alpine have a side radiator? Again, this about finding room for your FASS pump.

* What about a fuel filter bay? ...I presume you had 2 filters located there. Is that true or did your engine come with just 1 filter?

* You said you kept the FS1022 w/WIF sensor... so I assume you now have 3 filters?

* What is your fuel filter flow: Example: 20u ==> 10u ==> 10u (WIF) or ???

* Do you have access to the top of your fuel tank? ...to run the fuel lines to the FASS pump?

Finally, can you explain how you plumbed fuel lines from and back to your fuel tank... by explaining what #1, #2, #3, and #4 are in the pictures below?

Note to all: The top picture is the "before" FASS installation, and the blue fuel lines are the "after" FASS installation.

* Did you capture and return fuel from/to the side of the tank?

* Also, if these are fuel delivery lines, they look like they connect to fuel bungs located above the generator fuel delivery line (#4). Is that correct?
Imnprsd, I'll try to answer your questions...

Alpines used their proprietary Peak chassis designed and manufactured in house. It was not IFS, but had many unique features such as four wheel Antilock Hyd disc brakes. After WRV dissolved the chassis engineer went on to develop the Powerglide chassis.

Yes the coach has a side radiator and a filter bay and came equipped with only one single Fleetguard FS1022 water separating fuel filter in the rear filter bay. 10 micron.
So yes, I'm currently running all three filters. My plan is to filter 10 micron at the FASS and five at the original filter in the bay.

Alpines do not have access to the topside of the fuel tank, however the Onan 7.5 generator can be slid out to expose the front of the fuel tank, where all the fuel connections reside for the generator and engine. Actually the entire front cap slides out, so mounting the FASS pump under there just made good sense. Easy access for fuel filters and 12v, including the main fuse panel just behind the firewall.

So in reference to my pic you numbered, port number 3 is the OEM fuel pick up port now going to the FASS inlet, line number 1 is the FASS pump outlet to the Caps pump, (that is now plumbed to the original fuel line removed from port 3), port number 4 is the OEM return from the Caps pump lift pump manifold (undisturbed) and port number 2 was a spare 3/4" bung I removed and plumbed the FASS return line to.
This didn't require purchasing any additional fuel line other than what came included with the FASS Kit. Additionally, the OEM lift pump fuel lines from the FASS now bypass the Cummins lift pump. The CAPS return line still utilizes the lift pump manifold though, and goes back to the tank (port 4)

The main reasons I decided to mount the FASS up forward were ease of servicing the pump/filters, retaining the OEM fuel filter in the bay, things stay fairly clean "under the hood", pushing fuel downstream seemed better than drawing fuel under a vacuum from 30' away, no need to run an additional return line the length of the coach and easy access to 12v chassis and ignition key on power.
So far, so good. Now off to enjoy the Wa Coast and Copalis River next week, this will be the first real road trip since installation.
Stay safe, Mike
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Old 06-01-2020, 06:29 PM   #11
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Alpine36: Your installation looks great and is a reminder that every owner needs to think about their own unique chassis features and then come up with a custom installation for their own needs and budget.

What I am unclear about is how your tank "bungs" are higher than the bottom of the tank. ...or does your tank slant in the direction of the fuel pick-ups?

Otherwise, I would think the bottom 2" of your tank fuel would never get used. So can you comment on why your tank pick-ups are on the side of the tank... or is it mute, because inside the tank there are sump pick-ups?
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imnprsd View Post
Alpine36: Your installation looks great and is a reminder that every owner needs to think about their own unique chassis features and then come up with a custom installation for their own needs and budget.

What I am unclear about is how your tank "bungs" are higher than the bottom of the tank. ...or does your tank slant in the direction of the fuel pick-ups?

Otherwise, I would think the bottom 2" of your tank fuel would never get used. So can you comment on why your tank pick-ups are on the side of the tank... or is it mute, because inside the tank there are sump pick-ups?
The fuel tank on our coach has all the connection fittings on the forward end of it, so I can only assume the pick up tube must go to the bottom of the tank somehow. Its constructed to be a port or starboard fill. Ours is a port side fill. I plumbed the FASS return line to the unused starboard bung. The fuel fill vent hose is plumbed to the same bung on the port side, so I figured it would be ok there. We're currently enjoying ourselves at the Pacific Ocean, it ran fine all the way here! One odd thing I noticed is sometimes on deceleration it feels like the throttle is hanging on for a moment. Not like a stuck throttle, more like its on high idle for a few seconds. It doesn't do it with the exhaust brake on however. Not sure if it's related to the FASS, but it never did it before.
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Old 06-03-2020, 05:18 AM   #13
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Thanks for this amazing post.
Admittedly over my head.
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