Fresh water tank drain leak

[TomJames]

Our 2005, 34' Alpine has a very slow leak from the drain of the fresh water tank. It is operated by a cable in the compartment behind the propane tank. What type of valve is this, how do I access it and what kind of repair would you recommend? Thanks for any suggestions on the repair. --Tom

[Jeff and Cheryl]

Tom,
Assuming the valve is the same as on mine, had an issue with mine a few years ago and it appears they are no longer being made. I replaced mine with some PVC pipe and a simple on/off valve.

[Mule Skinner]

Tom
I have the same problem.
I turned down a piece of plastic to fit inside the drain hose and put a hose clamp on it. No more drip.
I looked at it and it was glued together. To much work.
Keep it simple.
By the way, I'm not lazy. I have selective participation.

[Jim A]

Originally Posted by Mule Skinner

By the way, I'm not lazy. I have selective participation.

You made my day!

[Algoma]

That was originally designed as a transom drain for a boat that WRV adopted for the water tank drain. As said previously it is no longer available. What you might find is that it is leaking because you closed it too hard. Just just backing off a little from the fully closed position. That worked on mine.

[Old Scout]

I am "assumming" the valve has an internal leak, ie, leaking inside the drain pipe? As Algoma points out, its a slide valve that is connected via a cable to the pull handle. The cable is connected to the slide mechanism via a set screw. If the cable has moved in the set screw at all the slide may be going too far or not far enough. OR--the gasket material that seals the slide may have been damaged or torn. The valve itself is located behind a carpet covered plywood box at the from of the basement. Access is tough but once the plywood is removed you have pretty good access to assess the situation. Thinking that if you did have to replace with a regular PVC valve--you might could make an extended T-handle [like HD has for underground hydrants] to turn the valve open and shut from the passenger side of the basement....good luck.

[Jeeper64060]

I just replaced my valve a few weeks ago. I bought a 1.5" grey water valve, and took the cable mechanism apart and put the new valve into it. Took a little mechanical ability to do it but the RV shop I bought it from showed me a cable operated valve they had in the shop and told me what to do. I had to carefully cut the T handle off of the new valve - the stem is threaded under there so be careful. The RV shop says they try to eliminate the cable operated valves if possible so you might consider just putting the new valve in with the T handle intact. Mine is working smooth so I decided to keep it.
I also had trouble with mine leaking where it threaded into the tank. I think the threads are not tapered correctly in the tank - they seem strait cut and have a small groove that looks like it is for an o-ring. I found an o-ring to fit and so far no leak.

By the way - access this from the passenger side. I crawled in following the cable and had a mild freak-out when I got wedged in a little. There is a lot more wiggle room on the passenger side.

Hope that helps.

[Greg from Pittsburgh]

I had the same problem with my 2001 36mds, went in to replace the valve and tried tightening the 4 fasteners around the perimeter of the valve, that's all it took, no more leak!