Community Forums

John Strauss · 11-30-2010, 07:11 AM

I have a 40 ft FDTS that has a roof leak that drips on the center of the dash. It appears to be running above the roof padding board comming form the front area of the coach. I have looked the roof over and can't find any suspicious areas. Does anyone have a sugestion? Fortunately the coach is stored inside a hanger.

John Strauss
2005 FDTS

StansCustoms · 11-30-2010, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John Strauss

I have a 40 ft FDTS that has a roof leak that drips on the center of the dash. It appears to be running above the roof padding board comming form the front area of the coach. I have looked the roof over and can't find any suspicious areas. Does anyone have a sugestion? Fortunately the coach is stored inside a hanger.

John Strauss
2005 FDTS

My guess would be the seam that connects the roof to the nose cap. Most motor home dealers sell a product called Dycor, which is a self leveling sealer that is applied on seams and around roof caps, a/c's etc.

I would get a couple of tubes of Dycor and seal the seam that goes all the way across the top at the front of the coach. Dycor is very user friendly and comes in caulk type tubes applied with a caulk gun.

Also if you have a satellite dish mounted at the front or horns mounted there, reseal their attachment points as well.

Note:
Do not use silicone on anything...nothing can be applied over it , and it will all have to be removed at some time in the future when resealing.

Good luck ...Stan

Rich and Cork · 11-30-2010, 08:56 AM

Also check the running lights for a good seal against the coach. I just had to reseal one of mine that generated a small leak down the windshield.

Algoma · 11-30-2010, 09:11 AM

Are you sure that it is not just the seal at the top of the windshield ?

bcbowers · 11-30-2010, 09:20 AM

I recently had water dripping down several places on the inside of the windshield. Resealing the clearance lights didn't help. I used a water hose along the edges of the windshield which revealed leaking seals. I had to have both windshields resealed to fix the problems.

Melorene · 11-30-2010, 09:26 AM

I had the same problem but in the rear and it was the gasket for the airconditioner..WRV cut a channel in the gasket to put the tube for the water drain in..its a big job but we removed the A/C. You could just caulk or use whatever to seal around the tube in the channnel . I installed a new gasket and then sealed the channel..so far no more leaks.They did the same on the front A/C I think too.. Mel

SC RV'er · 11-30-2010, 09:27 AM

I have 36' '08 with same type leak over driver side into electronics cabinet and then onto dash. Took dealer twice to find and fix. It was the joint of front cap. No more leaks so far!

Jim28730 · 11-30-2010, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcbowers

I recently had water dripping down several places on the inside of the windshield. Resealing the clearance lights didn't help. I used a water hose along the edges of the windshield which revealed leaking seals. I had to have both windshields resealed to fix the problems.

Mine were also due to windshield leaks along the top of the windshield.

Larry B. · 11-30-2010, 10:49 AM

We also had the same front cap leak. I first thought, like others, it was coming from the clearance lights seal.

Dave Fernandez · 11-30-2010, 11:37 AM

Hello John:

Water is like Electricity it will follow the path of less resistance. Water can follow wire or something inside the roof to a point where it will drop down and make you think it is coming from somewhere right above the drops when actually it is coming from somewhere else.

I would get on the roof and look at everything for possible leaks. It could be a Coaxial cable from an antenna or as simple as a screw. I would start by resealing all of the areas on the roof that could leak and reseal the where the cap connects to the roof.

On my 2001, I also have air horns, radio and cell antennas as well as the satellite dome and cabling which I must reseal every year.

As mentioned It could also be the windshield or the running lights need to resealed.

When I developed a leak in the rear A/C I found it was where WRV cut the square hole for the A/C and it allowed a crack to form in the corner which took several attempts to finally repair.

Jim A · 11-30-2010, 03:08 PM

I also had a problem with my front cap seal. The caulking was obviously bad, as it was cracked and pulling away. I resealed it and still had a minor leak, and put Eternabond tape over the cap seal. Still a minor leak. I finally found my last leak (knock on wood), and it was the sealing around the wires for the satellite radio antenna on the front of the coach roof, in the cap itself. No leaks since, about 2-3 years now.

Dave is right, the water can run quite a ways. My leak changed from the left side of the dash to the center, depending on what slight angle the coach was sitting. And even back to the front air conditioner a time or two. No leaks anywhere since to satellite radio antenna fix.

Good luck searching. Caulk whatever looks suspicious. Find out what WRV used, and then use something else!!!!

But keep in mind that caulking is often a crutch for not having sealed something properly in the first place. The air conditioner square cut for the round tube is a good example.

Rich and Cork · 11-30-2010, 05:43 PM

While on the subject of leaks, I had a roof vent leak on a previous motorhome. I poured sealant around the old sealant and still had the leak. To fix it, I removed the complete vent assembly, cleaned the area and reinstalled. The leak was fixed. I also had to replace an AC seal on another motorhome. It was installed upsdie down and took a few years to eventually leak.

Water leaks can be difficult to find and fix sometimes.

Superslif · 11-30-2010, 05:49 PM

Dycor is a good product. Get down on your hands & knees.....I did a very close inspection this fall.....of every inch of my rubber roof...If it even looked like a remotely possible place water can get in, I put a dab of Dycor on it.

Tom and Patty · 12-01-2010, 11:44 PM

While on the subject of re caulking. I removed the old black and gray vents on the roof and installed new ones. Rv 360 Dist Inc - 360 Siphon Waste Vent - Sewer Fittings - Camping World Getting the old caulk off for me has always been a chore. I purchased a Dremel Multi Max, Multi-Max and using the scraper attachment I was able to remove all the caulk right down to the fiberglass roof. It was like a hot knife cutting through butter. Be careful when you get down close to the roof as it could dig into the fiberglass.

It is going to make re caulking around the vents and shower skylight a dream this spring.