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Old 10-21-2021, 02:44 PM   #1
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Furnace Filter

Does the Suburban furnace utilize a filter? Iím not even sure where the intake is but I suspect theyíre the gold colored fancy vents (2j in front of the shower door and right behind the kitchen table. I pulled one off and thereís definitely no filter. My wife is concerned about the burning dust smell each time the furnace comes on. We donít use the coach regularly so ďdustĒ in the ducts is probably normal.
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Old 10-21-2021, 02:49 PM   #2
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No, no filter, though one could make/fit one. Just have to make sure not to restrict air flow or the sail switch would not close and NO HEAT.
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Old 10-21-2021, 02:51 PM   #3
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Short answer - no. Most RV furnaces like the Suburban do not have a filter, and the manufacturers do not encourage it due to concerns about restricting air flow and operation of the furnace. Some have used a low restriction filter like the fiberglass kind to keep large stuff out, but that won't catch the dust. The smell is fairly normal and not an indication of a problem... in my experience it goes away after a couple minutes.
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Old 10-22-2021, 08:14 AM   #4
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On my 2003 I replaced a some of the flex tubing the ran to the floor vents where they were accessible. The previous owner said they ever used the furnace. We noticed the musty smell as well. Two mouse nests in the old duct work confirmed it. The long run up to the rear of the passenger seat was the easiest to remove and replace. It is accessed through the passenger side bay doors. After replacing some of the duct work, I ran the furnace up to 75 degrees for 8 hours. Aired the coach out and it has been great since. There is a slight odor at first start but it clears quickly.
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Old 10-22-2021, 08:28 AM   #5
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Thanks everyone! Now I know.
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Old 10-22-2021, 09:54 AM   #6
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The only RV we have seen with a furnace Filter was a 1989 Avion travel trailer. In most newer trailers, the furnace is mounted in the basement and can draw inlet air through the basement. The inlet from the RV is usually a large grill near the steps in a 5er.

Ken
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Old 10-23-2021, 02:14 PM   #7
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Fleetwood Furnace

Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfe10 View Post
No, no filter, though one could make/fit one. Just have to make sure not to restrict air flow or the sail switch would not close and NO HEAT.

Hi wolf!
Read this while having heat issues. First class A and am clueless how this furnace operates. Sail switch? Lost again🤦🏼*♀️ Iím guessing this has to do with airflow, (sail, wind etc) where is it.

Sometimes it comes on, sometimes not.


Any help would be great!
Thanks in advance,
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Old 10-23-2021, 02:26 PM   #8
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When you turn on the furnace, the PC board first starts the FAN. If there is sufficient air flow to close the SAIL SWITCH, the PC board then opens the gas valve and triggers the ignitor.


If for any reason the sail switch does not signal the PC board, all you have is the fan.


SO, please tell us, when the furnace doesn't work, EXACTLY HOW FAR INTO THE RUN CYCLE DOES IT GET?
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Old 10-24-2021, 11:33 AM   #9
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Here’s the breakdown.

Had batteries tested. Said they were serviceable but could use a full charge (2 house 1 chassis). Got a 75 A maintenance charger that could service standard, AGM, or Lithium batteries. A friend had me pick up a Charger for her and her car battery issues. So, I had 2 chargers for the weekend at a RV State Park.

Since my long trip is coming up soon, I wasn’t too concerned about Chassis’s battery knowing alternator would charge the battery, I focused on house batteries.

After reading that filling batteries too full could result in over-flow during a charge I proceeded to charge each battery separately hooked up to 110 on shore power. Friend stopped by and after explaining my concern about overflow, he checked batteries and you could see metal plates. They had only been on charger for 30 min. (And I’m thinking THANK GOODNESS) I then disconnected the chargers, and filled cells with distilled water to bottom of plastic ring/ insert?. Connected chargers once again. For both batteries I used 1/2 gallon of DW.

This was 12:30 Saturday afternoon. By 3 am one battery was fully charged and I disconnected it. The other was charging still. At 9 am it wasn’t fully charged but I disconnected it any way fearing length of time.

Now during the charge I had heat. Worked fine. But by say midnight I couldn’t get any more heat. Stopped working. So I turned on my mini heater. 110 outlet worked. By 8:30 Sunday morning still no heat (mini was working) fridge says CHECK and Water is not coming out in both areas. Lights are now dimmed throughout coach. Main battery test came in at 87.8 not running and Aux came in at 120.4 just hooked to shore. I started coach came in at 139.9. Started generator and Aux came in at 138.7. Didn’t leave anything running just wanted to see if there was a difference. and there was but still not the high 400’s I got for Aux when I bought this.

Back to furnace. I just turned it back on. Blowing cold air. Looking at control panel fridge still had CHECK on and I can see a red light faintly next to control panel through the grate. When I turned on heat that light got BRIGHT. It dims then get bright. Heats been on 3 min still cold.

Water gives me a bit then nothing. What did I do wrong or am doing wrong? Did I fry my batteries? Did I kill the Convertor? 5 min. Still cold air. I am so lost ��
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Old 10-24-2021, 11:41 AM   #10
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After 10 min. No fan even on heat. Bright red light behind grate����*♀️Should I turn off heat? 3/4 tank of propane. ����*♀️
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Old 10-24-2021, 11:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oblatejm1 View Post
Here’s the breakdown.

Had batteries tested. Said they were serviceable but could use a full charge (2 house 1 chassis). Got a 75 A maintenance charger that could service standard, AGM, or Lithium batteries. A friend had me pick up a Charger for her and her car battery issues. So, I had 2 chargers for the weekend at a RV State Park.

Since my long trip is coming up soon, I wasn’t too concerned about Chassis’s battery knowing alternator would charge the battery, I focused on house batteries.

After reading that filling batteries too full could result in over-flow during a charge I proceeded to charge each battery separately hooked up to 110 on shore power. Friend stopped by and after explaining my concern about overflow, he checked batteries and you could see metal plates. They had only been on charger for 30 min. (And I’m thinking THANK GOODNESS) I then disconnected the chargers, and filled cells with distilled water to bottom of plastic ring/ insert?. Connected chargers once again. For both batteries I used 1/2 gallon of DW.

This was 12:30 Saturday afternoon. By 3 am one battery was fully charged and I disconnected it. The other was charging still. At 9 am it wasn’t fully charged but I disconnected it any way fearing length of time.

Now during the charge I had heat. Worked fine. But by say midnight I couldn’t get any more heat. Stopped working. So I turned on my mini heater. 110 outlet worked. By 8:30 Sunday morning still no heat (mini was working) fridge says CHECK and Water is not coming out in both areas. Lights are now dimmed throughout coach. Main battery test came in at 87.8 not running and Aux came in at 120.4 just hooked to shore. I started coach came in at 139.9. Started generator and Aux came in at 138.7. Didn’t leave anything running just wanted to see if there was a difference. and there was but still not the high 400’s I got for Aux when I bought this.

Back to furnace. I just turned it back on. Blowing cold air. Looking at control panel fridge still had CHECK on and I can see a red light faintly next to control panel through the grate. When I turned on heat that light got BRIGHT. It dims then get bright. Heats been on 3 min still cold.

Water gives me a bit then nothing. What did I do wrong or am doing wrong? Did I fry my batteries? Did I kill the Convertor? 5 min. Still cold air. I am so lost ��
From your description it sounds like your batteries are dead. Your refrigerator check light, dim house lights, failed furnace, and water pump, all need solid 12v power to operate. (BTW, I assume the numbers you posted have a misplaced decimal point, LOL.) What you describe is consistent with too low of voltage going to the coach system.


You had working devices while plugged in to the converter because you were working off of the converter. Once the batteries had to supply power alone, they failed.


Test your batteries, if you want, after fully charging on a charger. One bad battery, say the one you never got fully charged, can drain the other when connected in parallel and that may be what happened. Regardless, test them or replace them to be sure.
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Old 10-25-2021, 12:10 AM   #12
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Ahhh. Um yes my friend pointed that out (misplaced decimal) ����*♀️��.

It’s exactly what you said. Dead batteries! Since the 2 12 volts are connected, I didn’t need 2 chargers. So off came one! I have it on Standard and 20A boost since about 4:30 today. Readings are Main 11.99 Aux 11.62. at 12:30 pm. They are climbing where as before they were draining. Now I know why, one low will drain fully charged one!

It was like the twilight zone here today! Lights dimming at will, check light on, then off. Even started geni to make sure THAT was ok! Geni had a rough turn on too but like you said batteries. Geni is ok. Turned off and left heat off! Friend brought over a fireplace 110 plug in to help mini heater out (thankful I had something but was even MORE thankful for the heat output on the fireplace!).

So now we are back to the normal (����) fridge is fine now. No check lite, and am running it on 110 instead of propane and the heat is so welcoming considering the all day rain and wind to beat the band!

Converter came into the conversation. Trying to find the most logical spot, I did find a black, flat box next to CP below fridge that had white plug-ins about the size of 2 old phone plug ins side by side. Friend had Voltage tester (which I have to get for this rig) but said that couldn’t be converter since there was no way of getting to it. Owners Manual? I had been reluctant since my CHECK GAUGES info was nonexistent. Lo and behold it actually said where the inverter/converter was! BTW, isn’t I and C the same thing? Anyway, was pouring and decided will cross that bridge when it’s dryer��besides I didn’t dare want to disrupt the stability that was taking place inside by poking around outside with ANOTHER major player in this rig game! Nope. Had nuff for one day��

I did check all fuses one by one and the light in fridge I thought maybe burned out, isn’t! DEAD BATTERY!

I CANNOT thank you enough Ljw330 for confirming it was dead batteries! We were all over the place. Propane low and gauge is off, I or C on and on. Thank goodness it’s steady now. Will check I or C when I get the indirect Voltage tester?

Was definitely a learning day and found the I or C! so far no major damage.!No complaints because this seasoned soul needs her brain fired up on occasion ��

Thanks again and may He reward you abundantly for your generosity of time and knowledge! Safe travels!

RVer in learning,
Oblatejm1
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Old 10-25-2021, 10:26 AM   #13
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It is always gratifying when advice proves to be a help. Everyone on this forum is of the same mindset, to offer support and help. You have joined a good group and I, for one, thank you for updating your situation and reporting the repair. This is the kind of thing that helps everyone who finds themselves in a similar situation.


Safe travels!
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