Community Forums

gator67 · 10-07-2006, 09:30 AM

There are three separate issues I am addressing here. I'll take assistance on any or all!

1. I cannot find the 1 amp blade fuses(The ones for the CO detector and LP gas detector)? I've been to RV supplies, Auto Parts places, and Radio Shack. Nobody has 1 amp blade fuses. I also notice that most of the places on the web that advertise them are in England! Anyone have any success locating some?

2. There are three places where there are descriptions of of the the fuse panel. One is a piece of paper over the fuse panel, one is in the user's manual that comes with the coach, and one is in the set of diagrams (the 12 volt system) at the end of that same manual. None appear to be correct. We are now at the rally in Nashville and notice that the 2007 coaches aren't documented properly, either. Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this.

And...

3. I am having a problem with the fuse panel. I thought my CO detector was having a problem because it would quit. I have since discovered that if I press on the left side of the plastic holder for the fuses, that the CO fuse makes contact. If I release pressure, the CO fuse loses contact. But... if I press towards the middle of the fuse bar, it then works. I tried tightening all the connections but that didn't make a difference. Obviously something is not making contact somewhere. Any thoughts?

Here is my fuse panel:

Thanks!

gator67 · 10-07-2006, 09:30 AM

There are three separate issues I am addressing here. I'll take assistance on any or all!

1. I cannot find the 1 amp blade fuses(The ones for the CO detector and LP gas detector)? I've been to RV supplies, Auto Parts places, and Radio Shack. Nobody has 1 amp blade fuses. I also notice that most of the places on the web that advertise them are in England! Anyone have any success locating some?

2. There are three places where there are descriptions of of the the fuse panel. One is a piece of paper over the fuse panel, one is in the user's manual that comes with the coach, and one is in the set of diagrams (the 12 volt system) at the end of that same manual. None appear to be correct. We are now at the rally in Nashville and notice that the 2007 coaches aren't documented properly, either. Just wondering if anyone else has noticed this.

And...

3. I am having a problem with the fuse panel. I thought my CO detector was having a problem because it would quit. I have since discovered that if I press on the left side of the plastic holder for the fuses, that the CO fuse makes contact. If I release pressure, the CO fuse loses contact. But... if I press towards the middle of the fuse bar, it then works. I tried tightening all the connections but that didn't make a difference. Obviously something is not making contact somewhere. Any thoughts?

Here is my fuse panel:

Thanks!

EngineerMike · 10-08-2006, 06:36 PM

#2- same problem on mine, manual schematic differs from paper label next to fuse block.

#3- Two possibilities: you need a new fuse block; the spade grips are not bent properly. You could, w/diligence, try to bend the grips to a better form to get positive contact. Other posibility: bad fuse; you can tell that by removing fuse & clipping leads of a continuity tester to the blades, then skightly torque the fuse body as would result from the pushing you are doing. Never had a bad blade fuse myself, but have had bad ferule fuses; gotta be a first for all types. (Just for drill, tighten the wire termination going to that fuse to check that it isn't the wire screw not being completely tight (guess that's 3 possibilities)).

htg3 · 10-09-2006, 03:11 PM

Just to add some fuel to the fire, my 12v fuse block also has one fuse (far right - lights) that will cause bedroom/bath lights to flicker or go out. I have inspected the fuse block and not found any cracks and also tried different fuses. I would replace the whole fuseblock but cannot find a similar one on the internet. No, I haven't tried WRV yet. My schematic also does not match actual use.

G'ville · 10-09-2006, 08:45 PM

We had a bad connection in our fuse block. It took awhile to find it. It was the fuse for the furnace.

Our rig is an '03. Since new, the furnace would sometimes blow a fuse. I replaced several and made sure that there were no kinks in the hoses from the furnace and every vent was wide open. Ok for a couple of winters.

Last year in Yuma, furnace wouldn't work. Checked the fuse and found the fuse was melted and one of the connectors (left side) was fairly well blackened. Called a mobile service and was expecting to have to replace the fan motor.

The guy checked the block, jumpered and things worked. Ending up moving the fuse to a spare connection on the block. We attributed it to a poorly constructed fuse block.

Maybe a slightly higher cost for a better fuse block might be in order.

Regards,
/Fred

Gene H · 10-11-2006, 08:32 PM

We got our 1 amp fuse at a NAPA auto parts place in Boerne, TX.

granny · 10-11-2006, 11:55 PM

I also had the furnace fuse melting in the fuse holder and the pressure regulator on the hot water heating blowing on my 03 Alpine. I took the coach to Yakima last September and they changed out the fuse holder and rewired the furnace to run off its own wiring. When they were done I told them to put it on my bill and they told me it was on WRV because it was a safety issue.

Hope this helps.
Granny

EngineerMike · 10-15-2006, 10:30 AM

This from memory, but I think it's correct:
On delivery we had a 15 amp fuse for the Glendinning cord reel, which blew after a few weeks of use. I replaced it w/a 15. Then reading the docs from the reel mfgr, it says use a 20 amp fuse. The 15 hasn't blown since, but I carry spares in 20 as well.
If a fuse blows, not a bad idea to check for proper fuse size.

G'ville · 10-16-2006, 05:07 PM

Granny - thanks for the information. Since our rig is an '03 also, I'll be contacting WRV.

Both the furnace and water heater (gas side) run off the same fuse.

/Fred