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Old 03-02-2020, 09:51 AM   #15
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It has been a very long time, Feb 22nd 2006, since I had to replace a solenoid, but as I recall i removed the connection and the solenoid just unscrews from the manifold. We had the large slide creeping in.


BTW, cost in 2006 for a re-manufactured (RM0642 was our part number) was $95.20.

Last time I needed shuttle valve, Stuarts Service helped me trouble shoot over the phone and I bought the part from him in Indiana. 800.826.6267. Super service!!
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Old 03-03-2020, 08:27 AM   #16
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Thanks for the detailed diagram ! It will make the process of finding the right solenoid valve much quicker. I have not replaced the valve yet as I am not near the motorhome for a while but everything I read concerning changing it says that you "simply" unscrew the valve body from the manifold. Very little fluid will escape and that you will probably need some kind of strap to undo the valve.

Geoff
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Old 03-04-2020, 05:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom and Patty View Post
Last time I needed shuttle valve, Stuarts Service helped me trouble shoot over the phone and I bought the part from him in Indiana. 800.826.6267. Super service!!
Thanks Tom! I have reached out to Stuarts for a price quote. Did not want to depend on eBay, rather buy from a company that specializes in HWH parts.
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Old 03-07-2020, 07:54 AM   #18
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Update

First thing this morning I attempted to extend the slide using normal procedures. I extended it part way and then I stopped it, Then I retracted it. Attempted to fully extend it - slide stopped part way. Then it would not retract.

Side will fully extend and retract manually actuating the extend and retract solenoids.

Both Solenoids are receiving 12v power.

Observation: When extending the slide using the manual method, it seems the pump sounds like it is working harder than usual (ambient temperature 35 to 40 degrees).

Question: What should I be looking for at this point? The results of my tests this morning, I am not convinced I have a bad solenoid - unless two have failed.
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Old 03-07-2020, 08:29 AM   #19
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Update 2

Additional observation. Slide fully extended using the manual method, I closed the extend solenoid and attempted to retract slide using normal method. Slide move a couple of inches, stopped and the pump sound changed as if it was under a heavy load. Slide retracted using manual method.
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Old 03-07-2020, 08:32 AM   #20
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Reached out to Stuarts Service for a solenoid price. His response:
The replacement # RAP0642 cost $256.42 we have it in stock.
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Old 03-07-2020, 03:15 PM   #21
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I emailed Paul Maddox (Azpete) with the information from post Nos. 18 & 19. He provided the following response:
It sounds like you have a bad or corroded connection or a borderline battery. If all the connections, at the box and the 12 volt relays, have been cleaned, then i would consider the solenoids. The connections at the 12 volt relays may look good, but corrosion builds up between the connections on the stud. Loosen the nut on the big stud and spray the whole thing with the electronic cleaner. That should remove all the build-up on the individual wire connected to the stud.

I also need to know how long the time moving out and in is. Cold weather does take longer, but not much. Since it's is a 99 coach and probably has never had a fluid change, it may be worthwhile to do so. Unless you are the first owner, you don't have any idea what the first owner or service guy put in the tank. There may be some contamination on the tank bottom that's plugging the sock filter in the tank. HWH does not normally recommending hanging the fluid, unless it has been contaminated. I run the low temp trans fluid in my unit. It's just full synthetic trans fluid. It cost more, but I think it's worth it. With jacks up and rooms retracted, there won't be enough fluid left in the system to worry about diluting your new fluid. Just pump the tank dry as you can and go from there.

Paul
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:04 PM   #22
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Update & Fix

Overcome by events of the past few weeks, I have not been able to carve out the time to follow Paul's advice. Any good trouble shooter starts with the simple and works up from there. From his comment, "sounds like you have a bad or corroded connection." First disconnected the power to the HWH system, suited up with an old work shirt and a pair of disposable gloves, I dove into the oily hydraulic compartment. Removed each cable and cleaned the connection. Some are a little hard to get to, but I found one loose cable and in the end that was the issue. Perhaps some corrosion as well. All cable connections are clean and tight.

In the end, this issue gave me a much better understanding of the system and how it works. The more I read and manually worked the extend and retract solenoids, I just was not convinced I had two solenoids fail at the same time. And, at $256.42 a pop, I was not ready to drop $500 plus dollars until I was confident of the issue.

Thank you Paul!!
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Old 03-30-2020, 06:37 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKOne View Post
Overcome by events of the past few weeks, I have not been able to carve out the time to follow Paul's advice. Any good trouble shooter starts with the simple and works up from there. From his comment, "sounds like you have a bad or corroded connection." First disconnected the power to the HWH system, suited up with an old work shirt and a pair of disposable gloves, I dove into the oily hydraulic compartment. Removed each cable and cleaned the connection. Some are a little hard to get to, but I found one loose cable and in the end that was the issue. Perhaps some corrosion as well. All cable connections are clean and tight.

In the end, this issue gave me a much better understanding of the system and how it works. The more I read and manually worked the extend and retract solenoids, I just was not convinced I had two solenoids fail at the same time. And, at $256.42 a pop, I was not ready to drop $500 plus dollars until I was confident of the issue.

Thank you Paul!!
Glad you got it working. Where were the bad connections? Up near the gen slide or in the hydraulic bay?

Did you use dialectric grease when you reassembled the connections?
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Old 03-30-2020, 06:46 PM   #24
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You brought up a good point. Corroded connections can occure anywhere there is a connection exposed to the elements. In my case there was a loose cable in the hydraulic bay. Even though that seemed to be the obvious issue, I still removed all the 3/0 cables and cleaned with a file the cable ends and studs. Also removed the smaller wires and cleaned those as well. Used CRC battery cleaner and CRC Terminal Protector once everything was back in place.
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Old 03-31-2020, 01:49 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKOne View Post
You brought up a good point. Corroded connections can occure anywhere there is a connection exposed to the elements. In my case there was a loose cable in the hydraulic bay. Even though that seemed to be the obvious issue, I still removed all the 3/0 cables and cleaned with a file the cable ends and studs. Also removed the smaller wires and cleaned those as well. Used CRC battery cleaner and CRC Terminal Protector once everything was back in place.
Thanks for the reply. Good to know where the issue was.
Sounds like you added a little protection against future corrosion, or at the very least delayed the inevitable.
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