Community Forums

gator67 · 01-02-2009, 07:05 AM

I want to remove the cover of the halogen light over the dining room table. All the other lights under the cabinets unscrew easily. These are the only two with the padding around them, and I can't get them to budge. I even used a clamp around a rubber jar opener for a better grip, but it just won't move. I'm just wondering if anyone has a trick, or method for getting these off.

Ted III · 01-02-2009, 09:41 AM

You really are approaching this correctly. Try a piece of non-slip material and just hold as tightly as possible and turn. In my mind the only other option you might have is to take a sharp chisel and try positioning it in the back of the fixture so if it loosens instead of breaking you won't see it when you re-install it. This is purely a suggestion and I do not recommend it. If you care to try it,it is entirely your responsibility.

Joe Brunold · 01-02-2009, 10:40 AM

I had the same problem I let my friendly RV Tech take care of it.

Joe Brunold

Renipladlo · 01-02-2009, 09:07 PM

Try pushing up as you unscrew at the same time. That should allow the indentions of the light to slip out of the groove and it will come off. Do this with the when the light has been off for a while and is cool, so no thermal expansion of the parts is keeping it too tight.

EngineerMike · 03-02-2009, 06:27 PM

I was just letting the water out of one of my ceiling halogens

. If it won't turn at all, the lens could be turned fully to the stops.

The lenses turn CCW to remove, CW to install. They have two plastic nibs that are spring loaded to push into the partial threads formed into the glass lens. If ridiculous amounts of effort won't rotate the lens, then try prying the lens down. On one of mine the nibs were sprung so tight to the glass that the installer snapped the lens up and then couldn't turn it into place. All I needed to do was pull down on the rear edge, somewhat forcefully, and voila.

Then two small Phillips screws to take the metal fixture off the ceiling, and voila- the water is freeeee

.

Renipladlo · 03-03-2009, 08:47 PM

EM, how did water get into those lights? Unless you have one heck of a leak someplace the heat those give off would drive any water out quickly, and if there is a lot, you would have a short. Is this "another" something I have to worry about?

EngineerMike · 03-04-2009, 08:08 AM

We have been getting pounding rain here in NorCal. I'm guessing the Kingdome isn't properly sealed, or else another piece of space junque next to it. I've had maybe 2 cups of water total come in thru the halogen above the forward corner of the kitchen counter. With a little good weather I should be able to find the opening and seal the deal. Just not too keen on kneeling on the roof in blowing, freezing rain, so for now I'm opening the light cut-outs so the ceiling can dry well.

gator67 · 03-04-2009, 09:25 AM

A couple of years ago we had water dripping down from the A/C intake after a rain. There is a gray box on the roof behind the satellite dish, that the cable goes into. The top of the gray box was warped and water came in through the opening. Some caulking around the opening took care of the problem. Just another place to look.

Jim A · 03-09-2009, 08:49 PM

I found my last roof leak (or at least I think I did) was from the satellite radio antenna on the front cap. The caulking of the cables from that item was poor.

I previously re-caulked the front cap, which had very poor caulking from the factory, leading to the initial leak into the ceiling and entertainment center.

EngineerMike · 03-10-2009, 12:20 AM

Hope I found our last roof leak. Had one under extended part of front cap thru halogen light- pretty sure that was front cap seam. WRV used 2 different types of caulk on our 08 roof, one real durable and the other dried & cracked & not well adhered. The latter for the front cap seam and also for the coax going into the rectangular plastic cover behind Kingdome (the cover is sealed around its edges w/the good stuff, but the coax where it came together used the dried, cracked stuff). I used 3M Marine 4200 around the coax; it is rated removable and I figure I'll be going to an HD antenna setup B4 too long. I used 3M Marine 5200 fast setting on the front cap as I plan on leaving that in place for a while at least.

Now I have to decide when to replace the shower skylight which is cracking all around on the flat part. And I have to try the new search functions here to find the skylight mfgr as I recall it was mentioned once. Maybe its on that ACA Tech Library page I hear tell about, hmmmm

Jim A · 03-10-2009, 10:00 AM

They used two different caulks on my '04 as well. Same condition you described, except that I added the Kingdome later, so it is sealed differently. And hopefully not leaking, since it was DIY!!

Renipladlo · 03-10-2009, 06:00 PM

All, my front clearance lights leak when going down the road, have not figured out a way to fix them yet.

A tip, use Lacquer Thinner to clean up any surface grease, or residual caulk before you put down the new stuff. It will adhere much better, and then, you should wet one finger and sort of feather it in a little to break the surface tension the new caulk will have. It's easier to show than describe.

EM-Others - Did you use the self leveling stuff, or something else. We keep ours under cover, but once we start to really use it I am going to have to get up there and check every seam, and roof penetration for tightness. Guess I should do that this spring, man the list gets longer and longer.

For 2009 my fixing ratio to camping ratio is 100% fixing and 0% camping.

If interested here is my gripe list:
Generator is leaking coolant.
Wiper Motor/linkage is loose and they quit.
Clearance Lights leak when it rains.
Un-winterize unit.
Check for fresh water leaks.
Check for gray/black water leaks.
Sanitize water system.
Load up stuff/food/for season.
Try to fix leaking solenoid in vanity Room system.

This is things I remember from over the winter and last season.

EngineerMike · 03-10-2009, 06:55 PM

The 3M marine stuff is fairly "wet" in that it adheres and levels into to anything it touches easily. I wouldn't call it self leveling as it doesn't flow.

Jim A · 03-10-2009, 08:03 PM

Monty,

One of my front clearance lights is also leaking a small amount, and I bought LED clearance lights and plan to replace the lights and re-caulk them. (I could re-use the existing lights and simply clean and remount them, but I prefer the look of LED's if I am going to do the work anyway.) The lights are the same size, shape, and screw holes as the original '04 lights. Unfortunately for me the recessed mounting hole needs to be slightly enlarged with a Dremel tool to mount them. The lights came with a rubber gasket to mount between the light and the cap that should provide a good seal. I also plan to caulk them when I am finished mounting them. The existing caulk doesn't look to have been applied very well.

The caulk I used previously on the roof was bought at Camping World, and I bought a little plastic tool from Ace Hardware for making a smooth well rounded bead. Similar to using a finger. It was not self-leveling. 3+ years and still pliable and adherent.

There is a bolt on the wiper motor assembly that is relatively easy to tighten. You can see it if you look with a flashlight. The bolt head faces the front of the coach, just above the front slide right in the middle of the front end. It is easy to get to it with a box end wrench. (9/16" IIRC.) Not enough clearance between it and the fiberglass to get it with a socket wrench/rachet.

I am probably 50/50 between working on it and camping so far this year, but the camping number is rising quickly. None of my minor issues keeps me from using the coach.