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Old 06-21-2022, 02:27 PM   #15
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I experienced the same issue with the Chassie A/C and after much research and multiple repairs I installed a helper fan. Best thing I have done to the coash to date and solved my A/C issue. I now have great cold air on demand at any speed. I installed 2 Spal electric aux fans,
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Old 06-25-2022, 05:40 PM   #16
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Thanks Guys...

First, thanks to all that replied, amazing the amount of knowledge on this problem. Really Helpful, on a serious problem.
My mechanic and i are planing to install a small automobile radiator fan, (DC Powereed) to supply air onto the condenser, hopefully at all times if the A/C is turned on...Going to auto parts store to find one tomorrow.
We are hoping to build a bracket to attach, and try to find a hot wire to power it when A/C is turned on.
Does this sound like a good solution.?

Again thanks for ALL Replies.
Will
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Old 06-25-2022, 05:43 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtredder View Post
I experienced the same issue with the Chassie A/C and after much research and multiple repairs I installed a helper fan. Best thing I have done to the coash to date and solved my A/C issue. I now have great cold air on demand at any speed. I installed 2 Spal electric aux fans,
Can you give me any more details of how you did this, how you attached, and where, and is there any signifigance to a "two" speed fan?
Sorry maybe I misunderstood,...why "two" fans?
How did you power the fan?
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Old 06-25-2022, 07:12 PM   #18
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Fan

I would measure the distance from face of a/c condenser and in inside of the body louvers. Most have min space and no room for aux fan. I have used and installed the hyd orfice on several coaches. Very simple and no moving parts or interface to turn on when dash a/c is operated. Puts hyd fan at 350-400 rpm when engine is started and operates as necessary when engine heats up
Just my 2 cents
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Old 06-26-2022, 01:05 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandy1 View Post
I would measure the distance from face of a/c condenser and in inside of the body louvers. Most have min space and no room for aux fan. I have used and installed the hyd orfice on several coaches. Very simple and no moving parts or interface to turn on when dash a/c is operated. Puts hyd fan at 350-400 rpm when engine is started and operates as necessary when engine heats up
Just my 2 cents
This sounds good, but need more detailed information.
Thanks, Will
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Old 06-27-2022, 01:03 AM   #20
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Love to hear more about this orifice. It will also help Transmisson temp. I did a stupid thing and left my transmission in gear while stopped too long. Trans temp went to the roof. But took a long time to cool cause fan did not come on. Engine temp was fine.
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Old 06-28-2022, 01:58 PM   #21
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I found a couple fan options and mounting bracket assembly. From what I have read the straight blade fan is louder but moves more air. I am less concerned about noise and more about air and space.. The fan would need to be 2” and mounted tight to the condenser with the mounting brackets reversed so that they will help maximize the space. Relocating the condenser is an option but would not be my first choice unless it can be done easily and we do not have to evacuate the system to pull it apart. Another option is to shave the back of the louvered body panel. I attached a sketch of the fan layout and the handout for the Aux Fan install. Steps 1-16 would need to be followed to relocate the condenser. I would hope that steps 3-4 could be avoided and step 8 would not be followed. I think that mounting the fan directly to the condenser could be problematic down the road.


Option 1. https://www.holley.com/products/cool...parts/30100365. This is a 11” nominal straight blade “pusher” style fan. The depth is 2.01” which might fit in the space if the fan was mounted tight to the condenser and the back side of the louvered body panel is slightly shaved to make about ¼” of additional space otherwise the condenser would need to be moved closer to the radiator. Each fan generates 808cfm and two fans would generate over 1600 cfm which might do the trick if we can wire them together safely. The mounting would need to be reversed and could be accomplished with a horizontal flat bar attached to the ends of the radiator frame that you clip the fans to or just the SPAR fan mounting kit or a combination of both. The goal here would be to NOT relocate the condenser to save cost.

Option 2. https://www.holley.com/products/cool...parts/30100399. This is a 13” nominal straight blade “pusher” style fan. The depth is 2.04” which might fit in the space if the fan was mounted tight to the condenser and the back side of the louvered body panel is slightly shaved to make about 3/8” of additional space otherwise the condenser would need to be moved closer to the radiator. The fan generates 1032 cfm. The mounting would need to be reversed and could be accomplished with a horizontal flat bar attached to the ends of the radiator frame that you clip the fans to or just the SPAR fan mounting kit or a combination of both. The goal here would be to NOT relocate the condenser to save cost.

Option 3. https://www.holley.com/products/cool...parts/30100382 . This is a 14” nominal straight blade “pusher” style fan. The fan generates 1032 cfm. The depth is 2.44” which will not fit in the space unless the condenser is moved closer to the radiator. Relocating the condenser closer to the radiator will create some additional space but my guess would be about ½” +- and not sure if its more cost effective. If we need to relocate the condenser then maybe we should get a larger CFM fan

Option 4. https://www.holley.com/products/cool...parts/30101517 . This is a 16” nominal straight blade “pusher” style fan. The fan generates 1604 cfm The depth is 2.48” which will not fit in the space unless the condenser is moved closer to the radiator. Relocating the condenser closer to the radiator will create some additional space but my guess would be about ½” +- and not sure if its more cost effective.

Mounting Bracket - https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/parts/30130011

Relay - https://www.holley.com/products/cool...ys/parts/195FH I think the electric controls might be easier and cheaper to install vs the pressure type that Richard suggested.


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Old 06-29-2022, 02:16 PM   #22
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Sandy or Bruce,
Could you furnish info on the Hyd Orifice for the fan control. Part number, model, size, would be great
Also will this affect the high speed of the fan for high temps?
Thanks
Gary
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Old 06-29-2022, 04:35 PM   #23
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I don’t know if I have the original part number or order info. I purchased my valve and parts from McMaster Carr but it was over the counter cash transaction. I am on the road now but will look over the weekend. It does not change the high temp opening parameters or performance. It just regulates the low speed …. bringing it up to the speed you would like. Mine was just idling at the low speed and I brought it up to 650 rpm. See if Sandy has any data to add. I will let you know what I find over the weekend.
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Old 06-29-2022, 06:39 PM   #24
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valve for fan speed

Bruce,
Thanks for the reply.
Just checked Amazon and found a solid brass unit with 1/4" Npt.
Correct size?
If this size OK, now I will need the fitting sizes to adapt it to the line and wax valve????
Thanks Again
Gary
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Old 06-30-2022, 10:56 AM   #25
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The valve I used was McMaster Carr # 46425K22

Easy set precision glow adjust valve - steel body. 1/4 NPTF female 0.51 flow.

You will need the two fittings pictures with purple thread tape to bridge the valve into the line. 1/4” female NPT to JVC (1 male and 1 female)
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Old 07-01-2022, 07:42 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Anthon View Post
The valve I used was McMaster Carr # 46425K22

Easy set precision glow adjust valve - steel body. 1/4 NPTF female 0.51 flow.

You will need the two fittings pictures with purple thread tape to bridge the valve into the line. 1/4” female NPT to JVC (1 male and 1 female)


Interested in this mod. I would love to order the parts and get it right the first time (which would be the first time for me )

Looking at the photo, reading it from the radiator out, the stock fittings are radiator/maleJPT-female JPT/hose

adding the valve would give you:
radiator/female JPT to Male NPT adapter-new valve-male NPT to male JPT adapter/hose

The size is 1/4"

Also, I think I read that you wrote that you replaced the existing hose with a shorter hose.

Is that an accurate recap?
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Old 07-01-2022, 07:24 PM   #27
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Correct on the fittings and overview……

By adding the valve body, it forced the hose to loop farther down closer to things I did in want to be near. I made the valve hose slightly shorter with a 90 degree end fitting instead of straight on one end. This allowed the hose to be routed better and easier. The other hose was renewed to the original length and ends. Both were very hard in area closest to the turbo so I thought now is the time to replace them. Send me a PM if you would like to discuss in detail. And be sure to double check the original speed fan rpm at idle before you start you upgrade. Good luck!!
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