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07-03-2020, 08:12 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: wherever we're parked
Posts: 363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianna
the answer is don't drive over 45, and don't drive is there is more than a 1 knot breeze.
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That would pair well with a sailboat. You can always use one or the other
Our door is pretty solid too, but at highway speeds, a strong gust of wind will definitely make noise. Our latch might need adjusting though. If we don't secure the deadbolt, those wind gusts can pull the door open. Very exciting first drive home from the RV dealer.
__________________
2005 Alpine Coach 40FDTS
1968 VW Campmobile (toad)
Full timers, Kevin and Jacquie
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07-03-2020, 08:51 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Capistrano Beach, California
Posts: 4,465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brianna
Yeah, I'm not anxious to screw up that striker.
Is it like a bolt that could be tightened by rotating? Seems pretty solid. I don't want to damage it.
I'm going to add an uninterrupted loop of hollow rubber gasket as I described above and see what happens.
I figure that over time there has probably been some racking of the coach and the door so things don't align as they used to.
Or, it's always been like that and the answer is don't drive over 45, and don't drive is there is more than a 1 knot breeze.
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You will not screw up the striker, it is designed to be loosened or tightened and adjusted if needed. Note the hex head on the end, that's for the purpose of repositioning the striker. The issue I had was different. The door would not stay fully latched while driving. I adjusted the striker so the latch moved to its full lock, vertical position when the door was snug against the frame.
However, that may not be your issue so if your door closes and fully latches easily, and the outer rubber seal is slightly pressed against the outside of the door opening evenly, then you should leave well enough alone, IMO.
__________________
Larry, Eileen, and Finley
2004 Alpine 36FDDS
Third motor home, first Alpine, no need for another.
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07-14-2020, 08:01 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Brookfield,WI
Posts: 593
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Step 1:
I added a new "B" weatherstripping on top of the existing one, on the inside of the outer door. Why?:
1. The new stuff was skinnier than I thought.
2. The existing weather stripping was compressed, but totally intact and VERY well adhered.
I had to adjust the door striker back it's original position---centered on the jamb. I suppose 20 years of door slamming on a slowly compressing gasket allowed it to drift inward.
Step 2:
On a road test at 65 mph with 20 knot side wind toward the door, it was a total success---almost no sound at all. On the 2nd half of the test, with the wind toward the driver side there was a big improvement but still some annoying noise.
The next step will be to remove and replace the existing "D" weatherstripping on the coach body. That would be between the coach and the screen door when closed. The old "D" is in good shape but there are gaps in it.
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07-24-2020, 05:10 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Brookfield,WI
Posts: 593
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Part 3:
I added the new D weatherstripping onto the doorframe of the coach.
So, when the door is closed, it will be between the door frame and the screen door gasket.
I did have to temporarily move the door striker out a bit. I say temporarily because I expect the weatherstripping to compress a little.
On a test drive on the freeway at 65mph with a notable side wind, there was almost no noise. You can hear the whoosh from air hitting the exterior wind baffle, and you can hear the tires on the road. No whining or rattling.
Success with a caveat--until the rubber compresses a little bit, I can't use the deadbolt.
I'm hoping that happens quickly with our hot july weather.
So bottom line, needs some adjustments but totally removed annoying wind noise.
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