Community Forums

Lindenberg · 08-28-2007, 09:37 PM

The stove portion of the kitchen slide on my 2000 36 FDS has started to scrape on the floor when extending and retracting it. In this photo, it is the corner below the stove, next to the mirrored spice cabinets. http://i8.ebayimg.com/03/a/07/c4/13/ba_4.JPG

I don't see anything that looks like it has slipped out of adjustment or broken. The drawers in this area have light items in them but the water heater is also in this area.

When the slide is all the way in the edge that scrapes is elevated quiet high above the floor. When I start to extend the slide it drops down and makes contact with the floor and continues until the slide is about half way extended.

Any ideas what may be causing this?

Lindenberg · 08-28-2007, 09:37 PM

The stove portion of the kitchen slide on my 2000 36 FDS has started to scrape on the floor when extending and retracting it. In this photo, it is the corner below the stove, next to the mirrored spice cabinets. http://i8.ebayimg.com/03/a/07/c4/13/ba_4.JPG

I don't see anything that looks like it has slipped out of adjustment or broken. The drawers in this area have light items in them but the water heater is also in this area.

When the slide is all the way in the edge that scrapes is elevated quiet high above the floor. When I start to extend the slide it drops down and makes contact with the floor and continues until the slide is about half way extended.

Any ideas what may be causing this?

quikduk · 08-29-2007, 05:39 AM

I have a similar problem with mine. I have determined that the coach needs to be dead-on level when I run the slide out or in for it to clear.

My future fix is to shave a bit off of the bottom lip of the cabinet (still have to figure out how!) and then apply heavy felt furniture glide strips to the bottom edge of the cabinet. I don't mind if it gently "rubs" but once I re-finish the wood floor, I do NOT want any more scrapes.

Hope this helps.

Ken

Danny Gayhart · 08-29-2007, 07:14 AM

We have the same problem since I re-floored. I intend to remove the cabinet bottom when I return home for the winter and find the problem. We always level our coach before moving the slide.

Danny

Jeff_S · 08-29-2007, 07:36 AM

The same problem also started with our 2000 36FDS in the past month. Right where the light is hitting the floor & cabinet in the picture below.

Could there be some kind of adjustment that could be made to the slide?

EngineerMike · 08-29-2007, 11:13 AM

Our '06 had same problem, cracking the floor tile where the inside rear slide corner first dipped on extending the slid (near full-in position).
On mine there is an aluminum angle holding the vertical wood trim to the rear slide carcass that faces the bathroom wall when slide is out). It is visible fromt he rear when the slide in full in; 7 screws into the carcass & 6 into the trim for 13 total (on our new 08 it has 23 total screws

). I removed it and trimmed about 3/8" off the bottom edge which eliminated the contact, tho slide still wobbles going in/out.

WRV's tech lowered the outside rear corner of the slide w/its adjuster (visible @ the slide attachement outside when slide is out); that only affected slide in the fully out position and did nothing for the scraping while extend/retracting. I suspect the trend from a more firmly level-operation of the slide to a more droopy one over time has to do w/wear in the operating parts of the extension mechanism. There are nylon pads visible in the outside receivers of the slide rams that center the rectangular tube ram at the outside edge of the coach. There may be similar ones inside that receiver tube that wear or it may be other parts wearing. An expolded parts diagram would be nice.

Jeff_S · 09-03-2007, 07:30 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by EngineerMike:
WRV's tech lowered the outside rear corner of the slide w/its adjuster (visible @ the slide attachement outside when slide is out); that only affected slide in the fully out position and did nothing for the scraping while extend/retracting. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>WRV did some adjusting on our slide @ Newport, and it seemed to get worse. I don't know which way (up or down) they moved it, but it turns out we lowered the slide further and now it's hardly touching the floor while extend/retracting. We still need to remove and bevel the bottom of the vertical trim board at the rear of the slide (like Mike described).

gator67 · 09-06-2007, 05:36 AM

We don't have a kitchen slide, but our livingroom slide has settled. It was adjusted once at WRV and were told that this is probably going to happen again. I think they just put plastic shims in and they wear down. One way it is particularly noticeable that the slide is out of line is to look at the paint graphics on the outside. Everything is apparently lined up properly when they apply the paint. Seems like they could come up with a more permanent solution.

FRED MASINO · 09-06-2007, 06:51 AM

The problem with slides that won't stay adjusted might be the nylon pads that where burnt when the HWH outside receiver was welded to the chassis. There are similar pads at the end of the inside tube. If the inside tube is not positioned away from the heat of the weld, the two inside nylon pads (upper and lower), will be damaged. This will cause your slide to move up or down and not stay adjusted.

Fred & Lon Masino
2001 40 ft Alpine
Stevenson Ranch, Calif

lundy · 09-06-2007, 07:14 AM

Had a similar problem with my '00. Factory was not able to adjust without scraping (not every time, however). I 'solved' the problem by inserting a piece of smooth backed carpet under the front portion (nearest shower)when closing. It just kept the slide from rubbing on the wood flooring. By the time it closed 8 or so inches, it raised sufficiently to stop scraping so the piece necessary was only 2' X 3'. Not very scientific but worked.

Jeff_S · 09-18-2007, 07:14 PM

I fixed the problem completely.

I removed the two drawers in the rear most lower kitchen cabinet where the cabinet was riding directly on the floor (see my original response above). Upon inspecting the cabinet, I found that the floor of the cabinet had broken loose. The cabinet floor has a carpet covered piece of wood that should slide along the floor, providing clearance for the cabinet box. Since the cabinet floor was unsupported, the carpeted wood was not serving its purpose and the cabinet box was touching/sliding along the floor.

I found a 1x1 piece of wood that had broken near 1 of 2 screws, and the 2nd screw total sheared off. This was the only support for the cabinet bottom nearest to the drawer fronts/cabinet door.

I installed a 1x4 piece of wood inside the cabinet to provide support for the floor of the cabinet and fastened it with 9 or so drywall screws.

The cabinet no longer touches the floor (at least the box doesn't), just the carpet covered wood.

I also raised the slide at the rear hyd arm, because I had lowered it too much previously and the slide was practically touching the ceiling when retracting.

I also fastened the vertical board from the back through the aluminum angle that Mike mentioned. There will be no need to bevel the bottom of that trim piece now.

Everything looks good now. So, check the integrity of your bottom

... cabinet bottom.

dgerstel · 09-20-2007, 05:31 AM

Since I have had problems with the slide rubbing on both my 2002 34 and my 2007 40 I assume that this is a common problem. Here is something that I learned from Max and Kemo. This will not help with a problem like Jeff had.

We have full tile and our slide was rubbing on the tile under the couch near the front of the coach. I first adjusted the slide as low as I could in the front without it hitting the trim when the slide was in and not on the jacks. I had figured that one thing causing the slide to rub was friction from the rubber seals. This caused the top of the slide to rock back as all of the force out is from the slide rams on the bottom of the slide. I do not lube the seals as this keeps them from flipping. WRV's cure for this is to install small plastic blocks on the side of the slides which I do not like the looks of. I have found that if I keep them clean they will almost always flip. I then installed some of the small Teflon sliders used to slide furniture on the floor. This created a new problem of the slide catching and then releasing with a bang as it went out. I could extend it OK if I did it while not on the jacks, but don't like to do it that way. This is where I got the information from Max and Kemo that the catching problem was probably one of the seals sticking and then snapping free. I was told to lube the top seal with talcum powder. I cleaned the top of the slide and the seal with a window washing scrubber and just plain RO water. The next day when all was dry I lube the top of the slide and the seal with talcum powder. The slide works better than it ever has now.

Dale