Li-BIM 225 Battery Isolation manager - Lithium Batteries

[jcussen]

Agree, not very useful with bigger panels. Biggest low voltage panel I have seen is around 200 watts.

[paul65k]

Originally Posted by Alpine06

Hi Paul,
I am with you in the limitations of this controller. The idea is great but Power Point Tracking does not really work well on 12V systems (solar side). Anyways I think you have accidentally mixed up the series and parallel a couple of times above.
Jörg

Absolutely right.....I had a brain fart, thanks for catching that Jörg

In any case you can still only run 3 200W 12V panels (in parallel) and then still only 12V panels, with the 25V max input voltage. 12V panels in this configuration can put out as much as 25.9V (Could be an issue here actually) at minimum temps and 18.2V at max temps

It's OK to exceed the amps because they will simply "Clip" and make the max output the controller can handle, but it's never OK to exceed the voltage.

According to the model I ran, (3) 12V, 200W panels can put out between 45 and 50A based on temperature and will actually operate at between 18.2V and 25.9V ....exceeding the voltage is not a good thing so I would definitely check with the manufacturer and verify that this will work for your installation.

[ktoutoor]

After installing 3 Battle Born Batteries in our Winnebago Voyage 38J RV. I realized I was at risk of burning up our 150 AMP Alternator on our 8.1 Vortec. So I did some research and decided on this 00-10041-260 Battle Born LiFePO4 Battery Isolation Manager Li-BIM225

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFd9Uulo9rY&t

[paul65k]

Originally Posted by ktoutoor

After installing 3 Battle Born Batteries in our Winnebago Voyage 38J RV. I realized I was at risk of burning up our 150 AMP Alternator on our 8.1 Vortec. So I did some research and decided on this 00-10041-260 Battle Born LiFePO4 Battery Isolation Manager Li-BIM225

What did you pay for that unit?

I ask because I think those are around $150 - 175. They put out 30A for 15 minutes, off for 20, and repeat, if I do the math this means that it allows 30A to go to the house batteries 40% of the time or 12.5A per hour......I may be wrong but this is how I understand this device works.

A DC-DC charger on the other hand is a true smart charger and will provide 30A per hour on a continual basis till fully charged or 60% more charging and, it can be programmed to charge your LiFePO4 batteries with a specific charge profile. It does cost a bit more at $225-250 but for my $$ this would be my choice

[Kid Gloves]

BB has it listed for $199, currently on sale for $172.

[ktoutoor]

If you watch my video you will see I was getting over 80 amps for 15 minutes so I can get a quick recharge on those cloudy days .

[paul65k]

Originally Posted by ktoutoor

If you watch my video you will see I was getting over 80 amps for 15 minutes so I can get a quick recharge on those cloudy days .

OK so you get 80A X 40% of the time = 32A per hour into the house batteries.....Noted.

And you put heavy stress on your alternator, like driving down the freeway at 100MPH and then coasting for 60% of the time.....why not just go with a very smart decide (DC-DC converter) that just lopes along at 40MPH and gets you there at the same time......pretty sure the second car will last much longer than the first

[amxalan]

I am installing a REDARC BCDC1250 [DC to DC charger] to charge 4 of the Lion 1300 lithium batteries in a motorhome. The REDARC manual says connect a sufficient sized cable from the start battery to the red wire on the BCDC1250. My question is: what do I disconnect or bypass on the coach before I make this connection as the RV is already charging the house batteries from the coach engine alternator. In other words: the original configuration for this coach or most other motorhomes is the while driving the coach engine alternator first charges the start battery and then charges the house batteries so there is already a connection there to make this system work...just adding a cable from the start battery to the BCDC1250 does not stop the alternator from charging the house batteries. Or looked at another way: If I run a cable from the start battery to the BCDC1250 the house batteries will be charged by the original alternator voltage PLUS the voltage from the BCDC1250 ...correct? So something needs to be disconnected or bypassed so only the BCDC1250 is charging the house batteries..Yes? Battery suppliers
don't seem to know, REDARC wasn't much help either.

[Alpine03]

I installed 3 lithium batteries with a dc to dc charger. Removed the battery isolator. Should I keep the Big Boy in case I need a boast? Can I actually use the lithium batteries to start the coach?

[paul65k]

Originally Posted by Alpine03

I installed 3 lithium batteries with a dc to dc charger. Removed the battery isolator. Should I keep the Big Boy in case I need a boast? Can I actually use the lithium batteries to start the coach?

I left the Big/Boy but set it up so it will only activate when I use the boost switch on the dash to assist the chassis batteries with charging

[anand]

Sorry to awaken an old thread - would love some advice on how do disable to big boy except for the boost function. Mine is in a 2007 Beaver Marquis, which has a PCB based BCC-BIRD.

[Cinequip]

Originally Posted by anand

Sorry to awaken an old thread - would love some advice on how do disable to big boy except for the boost function. Mine is in a 2007 Beaver Marquis, which has a PCB based BCC-BIRD.

Check with M&M RV Electronics, the company that built the "Bird". Perhaps they can offer to reprogram the board to stop the auto battery connect function.