Community Forums

DryCreek · 09-12-2021, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ernieo

Doesn't seem to be a lot of boost pressure, I wonder if the fuel filter is dirty. That happened to my previous bus on our maiden voyage. Fuel filter got dirty and we had no boost. I have never bled the fuel filter of its water. Will try that today.

Boost (turbo output) and fuel filter are not related.

My garage · 09-12-2021, 06:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ernieo

I am not sure, but I am driving back from Oregon to Texas. I am traveling at 68 mph and 1750 rpm. My temperature goes from 192 to 210,l then goes back down, but then climbs back up to 215 or so. The elevation has not changed, nor the speed or rpms.

I get into town for the night and hear a loud squealing coming from the engine bay. Could this be a water pump issue?

Probably that tensioner common problem I carry that and the belts if you need the Cummins numbers I can dig it out

Pollo man · 09-12-2021, 06:51 PM

I would check the Radiator stack for crud as Jake21 mentioned. Could be between the AC and Radiator. I use simple green. Friend with Alpine had stuff behind AC condenser.
Gary

shoalsgary · 09-13-2021, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pollo man

I would check the Radiator stack for crud as Jake21 mentioned. Could be between the AC and Radiator. I use simple green. Friend with Alpine had stuff behind AC condenser.
Gary

I would like to know how to clean between CAC and radiator.

skyking421 · 09-13-2021, 06:24 AM

My 2010 Journey has a rear facing radiator with a belt driven fan. The large fan has a "viscous drive fan clutch". At 40,000 miles the fan clutch went bad and would not cool the engine enough, causing terrible angst on hill climbs with no place to pull over. Freightliner replaced the clutch and now the engine always runs about 190* no matter what grade, gear or outside temp. This is a common problem with these fan clutches at about 40,000 miles.

That said, yours is different, with side radiator and hydraulic drive. But, if it does have a fan clutch, that is likely the problem.

Whatever it is, you must get it fixed, for piece of mind.

Richard

Diesel-Lover · 09-13-2021, 03:10 PM

Cooling system check including proper coolant levels, thermostat operating correctly and the fan as well.

Also check your oil level while you are at it.

There is a product called water wetter ya I know it makes water wetter some say but what it does is increase the ability of the cooling system they say!

Had a VW sirocco that always ran hot after all the usual water pump, flush and fill, coolant levels and proper ratios, cooling fan, oil levels, even air filters and such. But after the addition of the tiny water wetter bottle, I was zapped with the drop in operating temps. Saw a lot of it being used in the scca etc too.

https://youtu.be/pApWgZdozQA

Theturboman · 09-14-2021, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel-Lover

Cooling system check including proper coolant levels, thermostat operating correctly and the fan as well.

Also check your oil level while you are at it.

There is a product called water wetter ya I know it makes water wetter some say but what it does is increase the ability of the cooling system they say!

Had a VW sirocco that always ran hot after all the usual water pump, flush and fill, coolant levels and proper ratios, cooling fan, oil levels, even air filters and such. But after the addition of the tiny water wetter bottle, I was zapped with the drop in operating temps. Saw a lot of it being used in the scca etc too.

https://youtu.be/pApWgZdozQA

Water wetter is a quality product but something to consider is it is most effective used with only water. Its can be used with coolant but not as effective if you are trying to lower temps. Big problem for those of you in a cold environment is that used alone it will freeze !!!

Theturboman · 09-14-2021, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ernieo

Still not right. Coming home with about 45 miles to go, the road is flat, the ambient temperature is about 92 and the bus is staying around 215 at 1700 rpms and 65 mph. Dang thing won't come down below 200 if I drop it into 5th gear.

Doesn't seem to be a lot of boost pressure, I wonder if the fuel filter is dirty. That happened to my previous bus on our maiden voyage. Fuel filter got dirty and we had no boost. I have never bled the fuel filter of its water. Will try that today.

I would check hoses post turbo to see if you have a clamp loose or a hole in a hole. I haven't driven mine enough to know exact boost numbers but I would guess 35-40 lbs or so on hills

Ernieo · 10-08-2021, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Theturboman

I would check hoses post turbo to see if you have a clamp loose or a hole in a hole. I haven't driven mine enough to know exact boost numbers but I would guess 35-40 lbs or so on hills

Found the problem. Split in the hose from the radiator. What a pain to get out. The outlet is right up against the frame which squeezes the hose making it difficult to get off.

Any idea where I can get this part? I don’t see a number on it.

Bruce Anthon · 10-08-2021, 03:47 PM

That is a hose for you charge air cooler. That hole is where your boost and performance went! You should be able to get them easily at a HD truck dealer.

Fix it first and then watch your temperatures while running. I believe your operating temperatures are not related to the CAC but it will be easy to check.

wolfe10 · 10-08-2021, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bruce Anthon

That is a hose for you charge air cooler. That hole is where your boost and performance went! You should be able to get them easily at a HD truck dealer.

Fix it first and then watch your temperatures while running. I believe your operating temperatures are not related to the CAC but it will be easy to check.

YUP, air hose-- from/to CAC!

Radiator-- NO.

Craig1960 · 10-08-2021, 05:48 PM

You can get it on Amazon too.

whalepirot · 10-09-2021, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ernieo

Found the problem. Split in the hose from the radiator. What a pain to get out. The outlet is right up against the frame which squeezes the hose making it difficult to get off.

Any idea where I can get this part?

It's a high temperature (500*) version; not specialized. The red ones are rated for higher temps than the blue, as my coach had. The best price I found was from[B]Intake Hoses LLC in Spokane, WA[/B]; a hair over $70 with two new clamps. (509)489-3684. PN: 90AR-400X6M. THIS, FOR THE 90* ELBOW FROM TURBO TO CAC.

While it was apart, I looked to see what caused the failure, which led to replacing the fallen compartment insulation. Cooing airflow is your friend.

When you reinstall the new, don't overtighten the spring loaded clamps, as that can lead to premature hose failure at the clamp.

Ernieo · 10-10-2021, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whalepirot

It's a high temperature (500*) version; not specialized. The red ones are rated for higher temps than the blue, as my coach had. The best price I found was from[B]Intake Hoses LLC in Spokane, WA[/B]; a hair over $70 with two new clamps. (509)489-3684. PN: 90AR-400X6M. THIS, FOR THE 90* ELBOW FROM TURBO TO CAC.

While it was apart, I looked to see what caused the failure, which led to replacing the fallen compartment insulation. Cooing airflow is your friend.

When you reinstall the new, don't overtighten the spring loaded clamps, as that can lead to premature hose failure at the clamp.

Interesting that you replaced the fallen compartment insulation. I was told that would not affect the temperature in the engine bay, but would affect the temps in the bus above the engine.

Found the Gates straight 4" x 8" red hose part # 26204. Amazon has it for about $50 and Auto Zone had it for $100 ish.