Maintenance time

[Zoldier]

Hello everyone. I’ve been browsing through this site for a while and learning a lot about the RV and glamping in general. I’ve had our 2000 Alpine Coach for about two years and I’m about to tackle some maintenance on it and want to make sure I don’t overlook anything. We’ve been using it for short trips and weekends but in a couple of weeks I will be staying in it for about six months while I work out of town.

I just purchased oil filters for the engine tranny, and coolant. Going to get the fluids today so I’ll have everything ready when they arrive. Has about 55k miles.

Battery levels are topped off.
Tires are good.

During our last trip we had some charging issues while hooked up to shore power. Turns out our heart interface is bypassed. Going to pull it out today hopefully to see if the internal fuse is blown. Talked with their tech support and came to this conclusion. If fuse is good I guess I’ll be buying a new one.

Just thought about the generator so I’ll go ahead and change the oil in that also.

Anything else anyone would recommend for peace of mind? I won’t have much time when I start working and I can’t do maintenance in the RV park so I want to try and knock out what I can now.

[fcbbob15]

Really just look over everything on the chassis for loose items, things rubbing, inspect tires, lube grease fittings. I also do a battery load test and clean the battery compartment. Light check, wiper check and just walk around and look things over well. Make sure all the things you will need at the RV park for your hook ups are in good shape and will last the six months. Oh and don't forget to check and lube those muffler bearings. Have a good trip and try to enjoy it even though you'll be working.

[Zoldier]

Lol. Muffler bearings. You reminded me of when I was a mechanic in the Army and we would mess with the new kids. Loved watching them check for soft spots on the tanks and blinker fluid. Oh and my favorite was putting air in the track pads. Lol.

Thanks for the tips.

[Old Scout]

Short answer is, if you are not driving very far, not much needs done now....longer answer is: if you don't have a base line for past maintenance, you don't really know what needs to be done. If you have been reviewing this forum, you should have a pretty good list of periodic maintenance items by now.
Example--are you aware of diesel's need for special coolant, SCA/DCA levels, and filter options on the older Cummins?

[wolfe10]

Be sure the coolant filter matches your coolant.


If one of the OAT-based newer generation long life coolants, you need a filter BLANK (i.e. filter media but zero units SCA).


If the older generation diesel coolant with added SCA, you need to TEST SCA level and then use the filter required to return SCA to proper concentration. So, one of the few filters where you do NOT always replace with the same filter as was removed.

[gatorv]

If you haven't done this? I recommend you check it. Change the filters in the hydraulic tank. I used to take the top off and siphon out fluid and change 3 filters and refill. Sorry I don't have part numbers as I don't have my 2000 Alpine anymore. There are plenty of people on this site to get you the filter parts numbers. You might also remove front hub caps and be sure oil level in hubs is correct.

[wolfe10]

Originally Posted by gatorv

You might also remove front hub caps and be sure oil level in hubs is correct.

And, if oil level is low FIX THE LEAK. If the inboard seal is leaking, hard to see, but will contaminate the brake pads.

[Zoldier]

Originally Posted by Old Scout

Short answer is, if you are not driving very far, not much needs done now....longer answer is: if you don't have a base line for past maintenance, you don't really know what needs to be done. If you have been reviewing this forum, you should have a pretty good list of periodic maintenance items by now.
Example--are you aware of diesel's need for special coolant, SCA/DCA levels, and filter options on the older Cummins?

Thanks. I was not aware of the special coolant and filter options. I actually ordered what was listed in the owners manual. I changed the hydraulic filters about 1000 miles ago.

Just pulled the inverter and I'm guessing I will need a new one. The internal fuse is good. Looking to see if there is some further troubleshooting I can do before buying a new one.

[Old Scout]

...wasn't clear what the symptoms were on the inverter--can you elaborate?

[Zoldier]

It’s been a few months since we were camping and did the troubleshooting. But basically when plugged in to shore power my appliances weren’t working and the outlets were acting up. When I went to look at the inverter I noticed that it was bypassed. The wires going into it were just connected to each other rather than to the inverter. I don’t remember exactly what happened when I tried to wire the inverter correctly but I know it didn’t work right and we had to bypass it again.

I called Xantrex up earlier and just went ahead and ordered a Freesom SW2012 to replace the old 458. The date on it was from 98 so I guess it was time for it to go.

[Old Scout]

yup--sounds like the right decision...….

[DrDaveMA]

Originally Posted by Zoldier

Hello everyone. I’ve been browsing through this site for a while and learning a lot about the RV and glamping in general. I’ve had our 2000 Alpine Coach for about two years and I’m about to tackle some maintenance on it and want to make sure I don’t overlook anything. We’ve been using it for short trips and weekends but in a couple of weeks I will be staying in it for about six months while I work out of town.



I just purchased oil filters for the engine tranny, and coolant. Going to get the fluids today so I’ll have everything ready when they arrive. Has about 55k miles.



Battery levels are topped off.

Tires are good.



During our last trip we had some charging issues while hooked up to shore power. Turns out our heart interface is bypassed. Going to pull it out today hopefully to see if the internal fuse is blown. Talked with their tech support and came to this conclusion. If fuse is good I guess I’ll be buying a new one.



Just thought about the generator so I’ll go ahead and change the oil in that also.



Anything else anyone would recommend for peace of mind? I won’t have much time when I start working and I can’t do maintenance in the RV park so I want to try and knock out what I can now.

WRV/Cummins recommends annual oil changes. I know some people don’t do this, but you need to, if you have not already done so, establish a base line for all things. Oil, coolant, hydraulic fluid and brake fluid as a start and for the genny, oil and coolant. How old are your batteries and tires, look at the “born on date”, Murphy’s law, usually on the chassis side of the tire.

[Zoldier]

Originally Posted by DrDaveMA

WRV/Cummins recommends annual oil changes. I know some people don’t do this, but you need to, if you have not already done so, establish a base line for all things. Oil, coolant, hydraulic fluid and brake fluid as a start and for the genny, oil and coolant. How old are your batteries and tires, look at the “born on date”, Murphy’s law, usually on the chassis side of the tire.

I created a spreadsheet to track all this. I’m tracking all the fluids by mileage and date so I can do a better job of keeping up with intervals. The batteries and tires are from 2018 and were installed when I bought it. Glad you mentioned brake fluid. Haven’t looked at that yet. Thanks.

[Ljwt330]

I didn’t see mention of the air filter. Don’t rely solely on the air filter gauge.

Also inspect the coolant and turbo hoses for cracks or aging. Coolant hoses tend to weaken from the inside and that often shows as very soft spots when the hose is squeezed.