New Floor Advice

[bcbowers]

We remodeled our coach back in early 2014 which include replacing the front carpet and ceramic tile with Karndean Art Select vinyl stone style tile. We elected to leave the carper in the bedroom. What a mistake!!! Now, the tile is no longer available so we’re going to use Shaw vinyl wood style interlocking flooring from Lowe’s to replace the bedroom carpet.

I know several of you have done this but can’t find those threads. I need some advice. Here are some questions:

1. We’re leaning towards laying the tile in alignment with the coach as opposed to cross-wise. Is there a reason to do one or the other? And no, diagonal is not an option!

2. The flooring is intended to float. Did you let it float or was some gluing used to keep it in place?

3. Did you use quarter round molding or similar molding along the edge to cover gaps?

4. Did you use any padding or similar material under the tile?

Thanks in advance for any advice you can provide!

[AKOne]

Bob, here is a nickels worth.

Question 1. Strictly preference. Visually we preferred side to side look over running planks front to back direction.
Question 2. Floating no adhesive. Not necessary
Question 3. Did not use any molding.
Question 4. I don't think padding is recommended under vinyl planks. Check the manufacture's recommendation.

Additional information can be found here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f104/new-floor-second-time-around-396188.html

Hope this helps.

[whalepirot]

Originally Posted by AKOne

I don't think padding is recommended under vinyl planks. Check the manufacture's recommendation.

I'll replace the existing 1/4 round to cover the floating floor's 1/4" perimeter gaps.

Flooring comes in many thicknesses; our is about twice that of most and needs no pad to even up (damaged) subfloor. Our backup choice is thinner, so a recommended rubbery pad beneath would be probable. Thickness is not the prime factor in flooring choice; the quality of the top layer is. A concern of mine is an underlayment's retention of moisture (mold?).

My professional, excellent installer said lateral layment makes the coach loos shorter; opposite for longitudinal. Angular is a choice and we are considering 30, versus 45. Bottom line, he said, lay a section down to decide which tickles your fancy.

[bcbowers]

Thanks for the comments!

I'm starting the project by removing carpet and padding. Lots of Staples!

The previous remodeling job appears to have laid the new vinyl tile right on top of the original tile. At least, that's what it looks like at the edge of the bathroom floor. I'll have to lay 1/4" thick plywood or backer board to make the thicknesses match.

More to come ...

[RVPioneer]

We replaced carpet with carpet. However, we did replace the carpet around the bed box, under the closet and along the wall on the passenger side with maple panels.

There is so little floor space in the BR on our 36’, we felt it made an easy transition from the tile in the bath area. The huge improvement was getting rid of all the other carpet mentioned above.

[whalepirot]

Originally Posted by RVPioneer

There is so little floor space in the BR

Ditto, so the low traffic existing will stay in the BR; nice to step on when arising, versus any hard, probably cool, flooring.

I found, for tile removal, that hammering very hard, in about 16 spaced spots on each square, allows the electric hammer chisel to undercut them about 3-4 times faster than not, with greatly reduced effort!

I've already used wood hardener (Varathane brand) on a small, slightly wetted area and will do the same on much of the rest that may be exposed to future dampness. The water-based gallon, ordered online thru HD is much cheaper than other sources. The Varathane can be diluted with acetone for deeper, and quicker penetration, though I didn't find that necessary.

Due to 'scarring' where the tiles pulled up some of the chipboard, I'll level, using Webcrete 95 with mixed with 50/50 (water/ Bostik 425) from a professional flooring shop. Per their suggestion, the 425, a latex liquid, keeps the filler flexible.

Two RedGuard coats will make a waterproof, vinyl barrier for the entire floor.

[bcbowers]

Having carpet in the BR is nice to walk on but becomes almost impossible to get clean and. Keep clean.

I got the 1/4" sub floor added today so now it's time to decide tile direction. I need to play with some pieces tomorrow and then decide.

One way or the other, I think the wood grain look will actually highlight the BR area since the rest of the coach is vinyl stone style. I'll post a picture tomorrow.

[DandyDon]

[QUOTE=bcbowers;5230194]Having carpet in the BR is nice to walk on but becomes almost impossible to get clean and. Keep clean.



Not if you're married to someone like my wife, old "Gestapo" Judy! I once forgot myself and walked into the bedroom with my shoes on. Sleeping in one of the storage bays for a month is no bed of roses!!

[mike brez]

Not a fan of the wood floors, Looks nice in pictures though. I like carpet in living and bed room. Never wear shoes in the coach or at home for that matter so keeping it clean is a non issue.
After owning a small motel and installing 20,000 sq feet of it in rooms my take is it looks nice but is garbage. I installed high end LVT.
I love when people do their coach in wood then put area rugs all over it,
I’m going to make some wood runners and put them on top of my carpet. LOL

[Russ Silber]

Originally Posted by mike brez

Not a fan of the wood floors, Looks nice in pictures though. I like carpet in living and bed room. Never wear shoes in the coach or at home for that matter so keeping it clean is a non issue.
After owning a small motel and installing 20,000 sq feet of it in rooms my take is it looks nice but is garbage. I installed high end LVT.
I love when people do their coach in wood then put area rugs all over it,
I’m going to make some wood runners and put them on top of my carpet. LOL

Use only high end interlocking vynal that's water proof.
Redid ours 3 yrs ago. Holding up great. Used 1/2 round on edges to lock in place. No problem with 3 dogs or rollers.

[whalepirot]

Originally Posted by bcbowers

Sleeping in one of the storage bays for a month is no bed of roses!!

Now, THAT'S a man cave!


I'm finding the 'cement based' floor leveler to be overkill, as it's real tough to get a real thin skim coat over a subfloor that's not that damaged. The bath/shower area is done, but I'll use the two-coat RedGuard over all of it.



The thick LVP needs no pad and the dings in the chipboard should be no sweat.

[mike brez]

Originally Posted by Russ Silber

Use only high end interlocking vynal that's water proof.
Redid ours 3 yrs ago. Holding up great. Used 1/2 round on edges to lock in place. No problem with 3 dogs or rollers.
Attachment 282152

Usually people put 1/4 round around the edge if installed floating.

[bcbowers]

Finished laying the new floor. The wife loves it so I guess it looks good.

[whalepirot]

I'm in awe of your speedy completion!


WIth a bit more tile in the driver's area to remove, I unbolted the seat, waitiong for the below 2nd coat to dry.


I'm area-staging the work with the 2nd (troweled) coat of RedGuard on 70% of the floor (BR forward), plus the entry steps. I found some corrosion on the bottom steel step under the existing vinyl. That glue, with imbedded mesh, was the worst task, with 3M adhesive remover better than acetone (evaps too fast) to soften it for plenty of scraping layers off.


Once clean, I shot two coats of self-etching automotive primer after 'freezing' any rust with metal prep. Then two coats of RedGuard, while not warranteed over metal, seems a good undercoat for the new LVP.


Primarily for edging considerations, I brushed on the 1st RG coat, but troweled the 2nd, which did a good job of filling the shallow gouges from tile adhesive. Either process was fine, the RG spreading well with water cleanup.